Jump to content
  • 0

Sportsmatic Weekdater loose crown


Question

Hi, new to repairing, just getting my feet wet, so be prepared for me to use incorrect language, and have things explained like I'm 5 :)

A couple years ago, I purchased a Seiko Sportsmatic Weekdater, cal. 6619-7050. 

Soon after purchase, the crown detached from the stem, and I took it in to local watchmaker for repair. It was returned in apparently good shape, but actually the problem still exists. 

I'd like to learn how to fix the problem, and hopefully bring this watch back to my wrist. 

It appears that the crown screws onto the stem, but that is as far as I have got. 

Any assistance would be welcomed. I did find a service manual elsewhere, but I'm a bit lost as it's my first. 

2020-02-01 14.36.39.jpg

2020-02-01 14.37.50.jpg

Seiko Sportmatic 6619A.pdf

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Apply medium strength Loctite. It's not expensive but if you have no other use for you could try another weakish glue, like vinyl based, definitely NOT superglue cyan-acrylic. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Simple as that. Huh. Thanks @jdm, @watchweasol. Loc tite 243 in the basket! 

I did notice the movement seems a bit loose in the case. Can either of you tell if it's missing anything from the pics, or do you need a better/different pic to tell? 

Trev. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Just now, Trevelyan said:

I did notice the movement seems a bit loose in the case. Can either of you tell if it's missing anything from the pics, or do you need a better/different pic to tell? 

Once screwed in the caseback presses on the mov't ring, so nothing to worry.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
4 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi as jdm says use loctite or other thread locking cement. do not put too much on.       

   Loctite is # 1.    the 3 basic strengths have been around for years.   if you want to remove it,   250 degres F.  will losen it.  vin  

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
12 hours ago, vinn3 said:

   Loctite is # 1.    the 3 basic strengths have been around for years.   if you want to remove it,   250 degres F.  will losen it.  vin  

   i forgot to mention;   both surfaces need to be free of oil.   alcohol or acetone.   vin

Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Similar Content

    • By Misshollypocket
      I actually have a couple problems I could use some help with. I’ll start with the more serious one I guess. I don’t have any trouble getting the back off my watches or changing the battery, but every time I use my tool to snap the back back on, something happens to the crown pin. It just lets go and comes out. I thought it was a strange occurrence the first time but I tried another one this week and got the same results. I’ve done this same thing on hundreds of other watches of different types and brands but never ran into this problem before. Can someone please help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
      Also, a couple of my watches don’t seem to be able to adjust to my teeny tiny wrist size. In my Monarch, the majority of the links don’t have holes to remove the pins. Is there any other way to remove a couple links. Any advice would be appreciated immensely!!!
    • By JJM
      Is this a rubber 'O' ring in here? 
      Not too sure how to approach replacing this.... 
      Or do I just hit it with my chequebook? 
    • By Furqan
      Hello Everyone.
      I need some help with repairing my Emporio Armani ar-1922.
      I've watched some videos on YouTube but none of them resemble the movement of this particular watch.
      My first problem is removing the stem/crown. I cannot see anything which looks like it will release the stem and I don't want to poke around inside it any more for fear of creating any damage.
      Any help will be much appreciated.
      Thanks.


    • By Joshua
      Hey, so I have a question. I've got an Invicta dive watch with a NH35A movement here that whenever I unthread the stem and crown as it is unthreading the date starts changing. Once its unthreaded I can change it to the 1, 2 and 3 positions and set and wind it accordingly. How can I fix this and what is causing this? 
       
      Yours truly, Josh
    • By Lorenz
      Hey guys, my name is Lorenz. I am an 18 year old electrical engineering student from Germany. 
      I got this Breitling chronospace a56012.1 from my granddad and I want to repair it.
      Besides a slight clicking noise while turning the crown ( someone please let me know if this is normal ) it works just fine.
      My main problem is that the black color on the Bezel is worn out on some positions and I dont know where to find a paint that holds on the metal nor do I know how to paint it again.
      I have worked with watches already, I disassembled a mechanical movement cleaned and oiled it again so I feel pretty confident in doing this job.
      And I would also like to change out the crystal, does anyone know what size crystal I need for this watch?
      Thanks in regards for any advice.

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi there,I have replied to Karl and told him what I have done.I removed the balance cock and left the balance in situ with the stud mounted in position to see how much the spring was out of round.After about 1 hour of gently stroking and manipulating the spring I have managed to get it looking almost the correct shape.On replacing the balance cock and gently placing the spring in the regulator pins the movement sprung into life.The amplitude has come up dramatically so I will be tweaking this movement to see if I can improve the performance.Photos of the Timegrapher display and an identical type of stud and screw that I have from a scrap movement that I have obtained for spares.Regards,Seth.
    • I have one of the machines John mentioned above that heats the stearic acid to make a vapor. It works great, but I do in practice use Fixodrop on customer watches. If you want to try the vapor method it just needs to be heated to about 80 degrees C, with the parts in a basket or something not in contact with it, in a container that can be closed. 30 to 60 seconds is enough time.   The first liquid epilame that Moebius marketed was Aretol, which was stearic acid in a solvent carrier. I don't know what the solvent was, but it wasn't alcohol. I have spoken to old watchmakers who mixed their own using pure isopropyl alcohol (99%) mixing 1:100 by weight. I have tried that and find that it leaves a visible film, didn't follow up with different ratios as I have the vapor method and Fixodrop. But if you try it with alcohol don't worry about it melting your shellac, it only needs to be in contact a few seconds. In fact the above machine, the Greiner U2, uses alcohol as the rinse for all the parts. The way it is designed the balance and fork get rinsed by themselves for a short time in fresh alcohol (it distills the alcohol continuously), then dried as the other parts get rinsed and the rinse is drained back into the distiller then regenerates for the final rinse. It's a very cool machine.
    • It is your display panel.   are you asking the name for it ?
    • LCD.  which I think stands for;      Liguid Crystal Display. 
×
×
  • Create New...