Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello again. I would like to remove the upper balance (cock) cap jewel shown in the photo below, but it is neither the Incabloc type (with lyre spring) nor the type which is serviced by removing two very small screws on the underside of the cock. As can be seen it is rather crusty on top and I would like to thoroughly clean and lube’ correctly. Any help would be appreciated please. I have not tried, but wonder if the top unscrews with a special slotted (two leg) screwdriver?

 

Kind regards

IMG_3233.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I would remove the balance complete, next stud support, more is then revealed, posting a photo of it at that point is likely to yield result.

Edited by Nucejoe
Also a pick of the other side of the cock can be taken and posted .
Posted
Will you also disclose the makes, caliber, brand .

Yes, sorry. It is a Ronda 1217. Nothing special but I would think the cap jewel should be removable for cleaning and relubricating. Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

 :startle:    I guess this beast is doomed to remain in confinement if is one of them rub in family. Tempting to remove the mobile stud carrier just to make sure.

 

Posted
Yes, it should unscrew easily. Good luck !

Well I tried to unscrew it, carefully, but lost my nerve when torque was more than I could comfortably apply. I’ll take off the two mobiles tonight and send in photos. Feel reluctant to just ‘let it go unlubricated’



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Hi @Deggsie - I realise that the link I provided was for a different type but I believed the same principal applied i.e. a screwdriver placed across the slots and turned would remove the cap for this 'Monobloc' shock protection type. You've done the right thing though by not forcing anything!

Your original picture is slightly perplexing in that there doesn't seem to be a jewel there at all but I guess that's just a white-out effect from the lighting! ^_^

I hope you manage to get this sorted.

Posted
Hi@Deggsie - I realise that the link I provided was for a different type but I believed the same principal applied i.e. a screwdriver placed across the slots and turned would remove the cap for this 'Monobloc' shock protection type. You've done the right thing though by not forcing anything!
Your original picture is slightly perplexing in that there doesn't seem to be a jewel there at all but I guess that's just a white-out effect from the lighting! [emoji5]
I hope you manage to get this sorted.

Thanks watchmaker. I just checked with 20x eye loop and a gentle prod with an oiler - it’s definitely there but a flakey grey deposition top. I’ll keep you all informed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Thanks watchmaker. I just checked with 20x eye loop and a gentle prod with an oiler - it’s definitely there but a flakey grey deposition top. I’ll keep you all informed.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have concluded jewel is smeared into the unit as spotted by old hippie. This unit is the interference pressed into the arm. Where do I go from here... reluctantly try to oil through the pivot hole. It’s not a satisfactory outcome but I don’t want to destroy it in trying too hard. Oh well!

 

Kind regards to all

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

If it were me I'd put the balance complete in a shallow dish of cleaning fluid (balance bridge down) and use a hand blower/puffer to agitate the fluid. This should dissolve and dislodge any muck that exists. [You have probably already done this of course but worth me mentioning]. Now with the balance complete removed from the fluid and dried, gently lift the balance/hairspring and use a fine oiler to put a drop of oil on the jewel. This way you have maximised your chances of a good and beneficial service whilst minimising the chances of damaging something.

What is still odd to me is the jewel-that-doesn't-seem-to-be-a-jewel and that is different in appearance to other examples of the Ronda 1217 with the usual nice bright jewel colour e.g. image.png.a7e0233210e4a4ed962c98605593c207.png

Unless of course this is a 'lesser' 1217 with only a single jewel and the jewel is somewhere else! ;):biggrin:

Edited by WatchMaker
Posted

Quick reply for now.. sorry for brevity. Cleaned exactly as per your suggestion. Jewel is there as your photo, but more ruby red. Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...