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Greetings from Sunny Arizona USA


barkerka

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Hello there and greetings from sunny Arizona USA!   I am very new to this hobby/sport and new to the Forum, but I am keen to learn..  Mark has inspired me with his excellent videos.  

I have a craving for historic military items, I mainly collect to keep the history alive and enjoy the hunt for missing parts and pieces.  In my search for various military items I have come across several old watches from the Great War and WWII which I have gathered in hopes of getting them back in service.  After paying a fortune to have one repaired and cleaned only to have it stop running I vowed to learn how to do it myself to save on future heartache.  Please have patience with me while I bumble my way along with newbie questions.....

 

   

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Thanks for the warm welcome everyone, I look forward to posting a few pictures and getting some expert advise ...  In the cigar box a few trench watches with shrapnel guards, several A-ll types, Bulova, Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton, and a couple of 7 jewel type...

I have started buying a few tools for beginners, but I have yet to find full diagrams for parts and where to get said parts. 

I must say I am a little nervous about tearing into these old fellas.   I have no issue with ripping into and rebuilding an antique transmission but for some reason I am terrified of the those little screws..  :) 

Thanks again!

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A  watch is not unlike a transmission. it's just gear reduction and multiple  output shafts an engine that drive it , the mainspring  and a governor the hairspring.you need proper sized screw drivers, a movement holder and magnification to get you started.

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And if you like military watches, particularly American military watches, google:

TM 9-1575

It's the US Army technical manual for wristwatches, pocket watches, stopwatches, and clocks.  Long out of print, a PDF is readily available on the internet. 

It is written in the terse, clipped, formal "MilSpeak" you'd expect from an Army technical manual.  If you can get past that then I'd say it is, without a doubt, one of the best resources for learning how to inspect, troubleshoot, and repair watches.  It was the first book I read that showed how to interpret the results of a timing machine test.  So far only one other book in my (limited but growing) book collection touches on that.

And you can't beat the price.

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Great reference phydaux thank you - I was able to find a copy in reasonably good condition on Ebay..  It looks like it will have part numbers and parts /assembly diagrams.  For me knowing what to order is half of the battle, the other half is knowing where to find the replacement parts.  But just like my old Willys jeeps, the good parts suppliers slowly get discovered.

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    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
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