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Vintage hairsprings is probably the largest headache since most of the old knowledge has been forgotten when the modern watchmaker begun to buy balance complete with already matched spings and balances. The balance on these are laser adjusted. On the packages of the vintage springs there often are the markings Gr and Fce learning what they stand for would help people like me with less knowledge to choose the correct spring to vibrate faster. Was there any standardized system for this type of marking?

Now it is time for me to look at the ETA 255.111, a movement found in a large amount of mid-priced quarts watches from Certina, Tissot, Omega, ETERNA, Longines, Tudor and many others. Though it goes by many names the original movement can be used as a guide when servicing others in this family. To save space and not make the thread a mile long I as usual made two PDF files of the Disassembly and Assembly of the movement. And as usual I urge you to look at the oiling and greasing scheme in the original documents from ETA. Enjoy! ETA_255_111_Disassemble.pdf ETA_255_111_Assemble.pdf

First a nice Elgin driver, a "Parkton" I believe. Its been sitting finished so long I can't remember the movement details, but a 670 inside I "think". Next a 1928 Elgin in a "jobbers" case with a 6/0s, Grade 430, seven jewel movement. Finally, a lovely Elgin "Capricorn" with a 714 Shockmaster movement. Michael was a lucky kid in 1962. The movement dates to 1958. RMD

Those in the picture above is the hardcore ones no collar..

Hello guys, After two days testing movement on the bench it looks ok. Power reserve, day/date changing, accuracy something about +/- 15s/day. Now it's time to take care about dial and hands. Please let me know - what colour of chrono hands should be - orange or yellow? In the web I found pictures for both option so I am confused. VID_20190903_220105.mp4 VID_20190903_220746.mp4 VID_20190903_220746.mp4

I just wanted to say thank you for all of your posts. They actually made me finally sign up on the forum.

Cousins sell Elma baskets but you need to know the basket measurements and fittings. I have found them on ebay too.

oil or dirt on hairspring would be my first guess, or maybe a tiny fiber that touches intermittently

how do you remove weight accuratly from a "screwless balance"? vin

In the past, like over 50 years ago, each spring was vibrated to its balance. Each balance, while superficially identical, could be different enough from the next one in the box to make the hairsprings incompatible. The modern method is more automatic, the springs are colleted then cut to a given length, the terminal curve formed, stud attached. They are then each tested and graded into about 20 categories; the balances are likewise graded into 20 categories. If you look at the results of the categorization, it makes a nice bell curve, with the majority falling within perhaps 4-5 middle spots, the rest dispersed in decreasing numbers towards the ends. The balances and hairspring are just mated according to the category. If you try to mate a Cat 1 spring to a Cat 20 balance it won't work at all. If you try between Cat 9,10,11, it may work OK. Of course there's no way to know which one is which once it leaves the timing department of the factory. Balances with screws add a dimension of adaptability as you can add and remove weight easily. Solid balances can only have weight removed, and the adjustment is permanent.

You got it. I have a question. The case in this 67-9119 should be all satined or maybe the sides should be polished?