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Ooh, so fast? In my 18000 movements it takes 6 s for a revolution... I would 1) test the security of rest and drop of each escape wheel tooth in one full revolution 2) not at all trust values presented by an iphone app... Frank

I would check the escape wheel. Check it's pivots for damage and if they are straight, check all of the teeth for damage. Also check its jewels. The beat is also a long way out which needs adjusting.,

To help give you an idea of quantity of oil images attached.

Dadistic, thanks for the book, it looks great. This looks similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQUWNiQtT-I

As a hobbyist the usual recommendation is it's a waste of money. Usually the fluid is taken out of the bottle and either goes in the special bottle at the link below or the eyedropper bottle. One milliliter isn't going to be enough to take out of whatever it comes in. If you just dip the party in or dip the pallet stones then really fast you might Be able to get by but I think this is a be a waste of money. The problem is the solvent they use is extremely volatile Every time you open the bottle a little bits going to evaporate it just isn't going to last very long. Then there are other alternatives that it's cheaper the third link has a cheaper option. https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/epilame-bottle-double-chamber-for-fixodrop-150.009.html https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/kimble-amber-glass-bottle-with-dropper-150.006.html https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/zenith-405-epi-kote-epilame-30ml-420.130.html

My 1900 does an excellent job, gives me a good low down on bal/esc cond. I could not live without it when servicing a watch.

Hiya Pip. I will keep an eye out. I'm looking for another one too as I have 1 more donor one to fix. Your LCD looks to have a small crack in it. I am afraid the parts will not come up easily as they are always the first part to crack. I think that people are a bit rough putting the battery in, or there is no shock protection on the case back when it is pressed in, resulting in a crack to the glass. They are great watches, I've seen a few changes hands recently for only $100.

You forgot there's one other feature that makes the 1900 interesting is the A and B display feature. One of the nice features of a paper tape machine is you can run long or infinite until you run out of paper timing plot liquid crystal displays can only go across the display typically. Some timing machines have a memory feature you can get one or two screens. The 1900 has another mode that lets you display twice as long of a display. Nice if you're looking for problems in the gear train binding issues. Then the amplitude thing does come up. I'm not even sure If it go down to the 100 before it gives you false numbers. I was visiting a friend with the 1000 machine he was very excited with how well his pocket watch was doing. He was looking at the amplitude on the timing machine I was looking at the balance wheel and visually look very bad. It's why I typically ask people how does the watch look or even in this discussion you need to physically put the watch close to in beat before you put it on the timing machine.

Well, it's not just bigger, it has colors which are quite useful, not just to take better pictures, but to show which "side" the beat error is, as the yellow and blue lines will invert position. The other features include a 10x accuracy resolution mode, configurable measurement interval, and rate rage. Actually rate range is adjustable as mentioned above. I think the minimum "detected" amplitude is about 100 deg, but when things are really bad that doesn't really matter, as the pattern or just looking at the balance is enough.

Drilling and replacing the pivot should be the preferred method IMHO if parts are rare. Rather than changing the whole wheel, this will save scarce resources. Chronograph runners are the first parts that get unavailable, guess why? For skilled and well equipped workers this repair is fast and not very difficult to do. Last year I got a WW2 chronograph in my workshop for repair. Both chronograph runner and minute register wheel had their pivots broken and sapphire jewels cracked. Tools used: Lathe, center drill 0.20mm, drill 0.25mm (both tungsten), Pivofix or Jacot tool: Frank