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torture test a Timex? Sure why not. But you can just watch this on YouTube.

I've a penchant for these small Swiss machine tools. This 3 of 4 Schaublin 70's (one is a basket case in need of reconditioning which will be an interesting project) and I just finished painting this one. #2 has also just finished being painted and #1 didn't need it (will try to ad photos at some point). I'll probably scale back to two, I'm in deep with this old iron disease. I thought you guys would get a kick out of it. I didn't bother painting the drive and motor, getting tired of painting. Paint is PPG line 7 enamel, RAL 7031 applied with an airbrush

Talked to the guy selling it and he said it's in good condition so i bought it. Coming next week.

When doing this type of thing the " Hunt" is the fun part i PM'd you with another place to look

The movement is a Rolex calibre 510 most parts are common to the 500 series of movement see sheets below for part numbers Interchangeable parts with other calibres: The roller is also used in Gruen calibres 818, 819, 823, 833, 879, other Rolex calibres 170, 250, 600, 620, 630, 635, 640, 645

I too would like to have a complete set, but as I'm just a hobbyist it would be really hard to defend the cost for a complete set, and buying a used set on eBay isn't much better, unfortunately! Anyway, I have my "K & D Improved Main Spring Winder No. 128", which works for the movements I'm currently interested in (Vostok 24XX movements and Poljot 2614.2H). The tutorial I found for this K & D tool was somewhat helpful, but it has taken a lot of practice, trial and error, broken springs, and finding my own methods to get this tool to work for me. Actually, I'd like to share the experience that I've gained, but using words would just be... too wordy. Anyway, the most important tip though (except the knowledge gained from the tutorial) would be to (I wonder if this is going to make any sense...) push the winding arbor of the tool away from the tool's barrel drum to make it easier to attach the inner mainspring coil to the winding arbor peg/pin. Then slowly pull the winding arbor, with the now attached mainspring, back into the inside of the tool's barrel drum until the mainspring touches the bottom of the drum (but not pressing on to it). At this point, tighten the two handle locking collars. That is, ignore the tutorial where it says "The winding arbor depth should be adjusted so that the spring hook is centred in the barrel". Anyway, this is my method, and it works OK for me. It's still not easy though and I give no warranties! BTW, the winding arbor dosen't have a "spring hook" but a pin/peg, so it can be used with both left and right mainsprings, which indeed is a good thing!

Even from the US you can use Cousins UK. No VAT, reasonable shipping cost and delivery times, no customs fees for you. No need to be fixated on domestic suppliers in this global market age.

There may be more clues as to what the movement is by showing a picture of the other side, its a early calibre so is almost certainly produced by Aegler and with 17 jewels is a Prima varient these 8 3/4 movements where also the base calibre for the first Rolex Automatics. Aegler movements where not just supplied to Rolex, Alpina and Gruen also used Aegler supplied movements and some parts for these are inter-changeable.

I'm guessing your movements are the same as my Amphibia, in which the seconds pinion is held in place by a weak cantilever spring. Pressing the seconds hand in place simply pushes the shaft down against the spring so that the seconds hand doesn't engage properly on the shaft. You need to brace the seconds pinion from the back to prevent it moving when you attach the seconds hand. I just use my finger to brace the pinion but I daresay there are other more proper ways to do it.

These are called LEP pilot lights made for lucas norton & triumph motercycles