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I have a 955.412 which failed mysteriously while I was doing case work. Would send it to you but the circuit P/N is different.

A thing to consider is if you are going to be doing more quartz repairs, this is the most common 'higher end' series of quartz module, having one to salvage parts from may very well benefit you multiple times in the future. buying the parts individually costs about £6 a time. It can pay off having one or two of these movements and having a sort of 'scrapyard' draw.

Well isn't that what cleaning watches is all about, getting rid of unwanted bumps and S**T.

I did the same, still was not able to get the same results I do from the commercial cleaner/rinse. I also hate feeling like I'm paying too much, but for me anyway I just didn't work as well. I thought about going to next level, all the right ingredients from chemical supply, but with 8 lifetimes of projects on the go, well, I never got there

It may be worth you getting a battery tester with watch test function, this will give you the basic diagnostic of hearing a beep every time the circuit sends a pulse to advance the stepping motor and drive the watch. The only thing I'm questioning is where you'd get a circuit/coil individually, ETA stopped supplying most circuits individually a long time ago, including the 955 circuits. I thought maybe there were sellers on eBay taking them apart and selling the components but I don't see anything.

In case you're curious about what the tests are for this particular watch PDF attached. So as a couple of things you could check with your meter like are you getting pulses out of the circuit which is test 2. Although you can use the digital meter analog meters work better here. The problem is the pulses Are very short And on digital meters they just don't have enough time to capture.. Then test 4 you can check the coil resistance because you can't always tell by looking at it whether the coils good or bad. It's one of the problems with quartz watches you can't look at the circuit you really need all of various test equipment. You're probably flip a coin on this one purchasing a new moment everything is new might even have a warranty everything's going to work. Purchasing the circuit probably will fix the problem as long as there are no other mechanical problem still lurking somewhere. 955.114.pdf

I found this website where the watchmaker took apart what I believe is the same, or at least similar movement to yours. Scroll about halfway down to where they talk about the hacking feature. Beyond that you'll find this: " The issue with the non running of the movement was down to this little chap, the stop lever. This was the shape it was in…. " That statement is next to an image of what he called a stop-lever. Again, good luck. IWC quartz chronograph

Just wanted to say that the new drill rod came in. Surprisingly this was much cheaper than the blued steel, but this new stuff is extremely nice quality. Anyway back to the important point I put it to the test and my graver cuts it no problem now. Thanks everyone for the support! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi guys, I just want to share with you my small watch collection (brag about it ). First photo, from left to right : Seiko Chronograph, Regency, Raketa 24h, Orex, Kirovskie, Rotary Automatic, Poljot with alarm (Dad's watch, the one that started this passion) Wostok, Atlantic Worldmaster, Pallas Adora, 2x Orex (ladies) and Sparewa ladies. Second photo, from left to right: Ural, Poljot, Seiko 5, Raketa Automatic, Sekonda Automatic, Molnija Pocket watch, Sekonda, Pobeda, Zim Third photo, from left to right: Prim Czechoslovakia, Poljot, Raketa and Raketa again . Hopefully the photos are shown in order of explanation. Hope you like it and sorry for not mentioning movement numbers but will be more than happy to give you details if you want. Thanks, Andrei

Tried lifting lever but no movement on it at all, Watch still gaining 10 mins in an hour despite demagnetising it and I have looked at the Case thoroughly under a 20x loupe and definitely no join for case back although I can see someone has tried to prise it between the lugs obviously assuming there was a join. I will try later and put some pressure on the stem incase it is a snap fit.