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Buying and selling watches - as opposed to collecting watches - is a complicated business, and collecting with a possible view to future resale is even more complex. I think you have to lay down some ground rules for yourself. And, of course, your taste is yours as an individual. I collect watches, and occasionally sell some on, either because I'm tired of them or - more usually - because I want to fund something a little more expensive. My ground rules, such as they are: 1. I never buy a watch that I don't like the look of, or one with a cheap movement - regardless of maker. 2. I never buy with a view to resell or make a profit. 3. I always buy second-hand watches. 4. I rarely buy anything made later than 1970 but see below! 5. I rarely buy quartz, and only occasional automatics. And you can see the sort of stuff I have on my watch pages - see the link in my signature below. The prices I've paid range from £8 (really!) to around £300, with £100 as the median. In the last year, however, I've changed tack slightly and, instead of scouring eBay for bargains (of which I have plenty), I've been saving up and going for some more interesting stuff (Hamilton, LeCoultre, Christopher Ward), each costing in the £600-£700 mark. And the Hamilton and Christopher Ward watches are post-2000 in year of manufacture. And automatics - which I normally rarely buy. Many of my vintage watches have small case/dial sizes. This doesn't bother me in the slightest, but many of them would be considered "ladies" watches these days because of their size. I love dial designs from the 1930s and 1940s - particularly military in actuality or in style. Genuine military watches always hold their value and generally have excellent movements. My tip for purchasing: pre-1970 Roamers, Great watches and great movements, but not now as cheap as they used to be...

When I proclaimed it a feiko, Tapatalk had only loaded one of the pics in post #9. The missing pic was of the movement which shows a 6309.I hereby retract "feiko" but maintain "franken". Please read the above with a suitable trumpet fanfare playing in the background [emoji16] Oh, and the crown is not the correct one. I think it shouldn't protrude from the case.

hi everyone. i saw in an old post that willfly is a Hamilton 992B fan. so i am going to show you all my favorite. i have a few of them but this one is special. it is the lowest known serial number 4C prefix 992B and is absolutely mint, never been worn serial number 4C944280 link here to a database of numbers. http://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/254108073/m/1253949667

Latest ebay purchase a bargain at £11.10 it's been running since winding. Needs a clean and a service and i think ill give matabog's glass polish a go I'm well pleased

not fixable. it's a disposable piece. replace it in one fell swoop. in the automotive world it's called nonserviceable.

Could this help? http://www.crazywatches.pl/wittnauer-electro-chron-electric-1962 The watch opens from the back. If you can't find a tool use the superglue metod. Described before in the forum. As for the hands? Have they been replaced at some time?

Well that's a lot better and ready for my wrist. Isn't Ebay Brill.

If I'm doing anything for a friend whether it's a new battery or trying to repair it I always say " It's always possible that I can't fix it or something will go wrong and the watch won't be usable". If they accept the risk then I go ahead if not I wouldn't touch it. The price is either zero or we get invited for a meal. I only do jobs for real friends. I've got quite few friends and I do all their batch batteries as a matter of course. Just for pleasure and it keeps me busy in my retirement :) Mike

All I can think of is to use the right wrench to unscrew the back and look inside! Cheers, Bob

Keep us posted many will like to know how you progress

I can drink beer ambidextrously! :biggrin:

That's a fascinating post-production run - and a great looking watch. My 992B dates from 1951 and has a Montgomery dial:

I really didn't expect such a nice movement.

I recently picked up this Bulova at an estate sale. The crystal was scratched horribly but after hours of polishing it is as clear as new. I have also replaced the band with a black leather that really looks great on the watch. There are some problems though that I do not know enough about watches to even know where to start. Basically when pulled out to set the time, the crown pulls very hard. When pushed in, I can not get it to wind. While out and setting, the crown seems to spin looser the more times I turn it. When I push it back in, the watch will start to run. It may stay running for several hours or for only several minutes. When it does seem to stay running, it seems to be gaining about roughly 5 minutes or so each hour. While I am not necessarily ready to try and fix this myself (I have another I am working on witch is my first teardown and rebuild), at some point I would like to try and fix this one. Could anyone give me some idea what might be wrong with it?

bob - i gotta respectfully disagree with you. ALL of the stupid drivers are here in north carolina. all of them. i could tell some stories. i liked this watch so much, i got one for each wrist.

Try some of the cheap Swiss movements, like a Baumgartner 866CLD, Brac 28 or a MAM 3467 they are all one jewel or low jewel pin lever movements, but the degree of difficulty reassembling them will really try your patience and see if you are suited to watch work. I was servicing a MAM today and the time it took to install the train bridge I could have completely reassembled a Seiko or two, some of these pin lever movements look junk but they keep going for ever. Well worth having a go at even if it isn't a working movement you will learn a lot from them.. Max