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Don't know what one you have but this might be useful if not seen before. http://youtu.be/UrUQtVQIgQ0

During one of my periodic trawls through the eBay of Biscay, I came across this little beauty. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-British-Military-Cortebert-ATP-Wristwatch-/111664434866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19ffb80eb2 If you look at the photo of the outer case back, you'll see the most disgusting attempt to mark the watch with the military pheon (broad arrow), ATP and serial number. Compare it with my Unitas ATP case back: http://www.willswatchpages.com/unitas-173.html As the old saying goes: "Caveat emptor" - let the buyer beware! Cheers, Will

The last time I used my winder I added a light coating of grease on the winding arbour & it seemed to release with ease.

I used to have the same problem with the inner end of the spring doubling back on itself and breaking. Now what I do is simply let the winding handle wind itself back under the spring tension so that there is no torque left on it, then carefully pull the arbor out just enough to get a pair of #4 tweezers in. I can then get the tips of the tweezers, one either side of the arbor, in between the top of the spring and the winding handle plate, and carefully extract the arbor the rest of the way with the tweezers holding the spring in the barrel. It can be a bit fiddly but I don't get broken springs any more.

It is probably the Crown Wheel Ring. Normally 422.........

I usually remove movement, let the case/bracelet soak in hot water to soften the gunk then go at it with an old electric sonic toothbrush laced with dove soap. Two passes with this is clean enough to go into ultrasonic bath for deep clean.

For really oily stuff I use lighter fuel before using Priory Polish cleaner. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLOCK-CLEANING-CONCENTRATE-NO-1-250MLS-/250475705782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a5183f5b6 I started using this stuff a few months ago and the results are excellent. Brass and plated movements come up like new. I rinse with hot water, then blow off the excess before dropping them in isopropyl alcohol for the final rinse to make sure all the water is gone. I then dry off th alcohol with a blower.Have a look at the pictures in this thread, as this is how this one was cleaned. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1538-1913-silver-trench-watch/?hl=%2B1913+%2Btrench+%2Bwatch

That looks like a real good option that Geo offered. I use L&R cleaners and rinses and they will be about 100$ US for both as they are only per the gallon. You might want to do a Google search for home brew cleaning mixes. They are out there. DO NOT MIX BLEACH WITH AMMONIA. The gas is poison. Off to the cot. It's midnight here. Good night.

Hi Stephen, I can highly recommend this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLOCK-CLEANING-CONCENTRATE-NO-1-250MLS-/250475705782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a5183f5b6dilute as recommended and use it in an ultrasonic bath at 50 centigrade.

Ammonia, not bleach is all I can contribute. Maybe ammonia mixed with water and lighter fluid?

Hi Affnan, these screws look similar to the ones used on Croton watches... I've seen some NOS on eBay. Anil

I triple checked the auto works and this appears to be the most likely issue, im going to be ordering both wheels and replace both at same time. I have cleaned the auto works twice and re lubricated them but i think the rev wheels are both knackered. I followed the ETA service sheet to the letter ( i always have one whether im familiar with the movement or not ), plus the way i disassemble movements won't allow screws to get mixed up. The movement was a non runner before i started, it had very many solid years of use and winding was worse if not impossible beforehand. I have cleaned the reversing wheels twice and i believe they are both kaput tbh. The watch had several broken parts which i have replaced with new, so if the rev wheels are kaput it would not surprise me. The rotor and bearings luckily are still in good order. I follow ETA service sheets by the number so i should hope my assembly is not flawed ha ha :) I will be ordering both new reversing wheels so hopefully this should get the auto mech back into action.

Oh I'm sure the Cortébert watch is perfectly genuine - the face, dial, hands, case, movement, etc. - are all of a piece. But - and here's the point - I'm not convinced that the watch was purchased by the British Government as part of the consignments of Swiss (and American) watches which they bought for the troops. It's in the style, to be sure, but I've also seen lots of "ATP" case backs, and the engraving on that one looks too crude and too new - to me - to be genuine. A watch without the military markings might be worth, say, £85 or so - but around £150 with the markings - so there is a real markup to be made with the extra "ATP"! Note that I'm not saying that the eBay vendor is a faker - not at all - just that I've never seen such crude engravings on either UK or US military timepieces. He may have acquired it in good faith, but - to me - it doesn't look right. After all, anyone could do that and claim it was genuine. Here's a specimen of the real thing on eBay - note the clarity of the engraving: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-WW2-UNITAS-BRITISH-A-T-P-MILITARY-WRISTWATCH-c-1939-45-NEEDS-A-SERVICE-/201346761922?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ee133c4c2 Will

Err.... :D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This PDF should help with the set up. Seiko 6106A - Technical Guide (HQ)-3.pdf