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After assembly and regulation. BTW this was a non-runner bought on eBay for $20. Amplitude dial u/d is closer to 260 with 60 year old orignal mainspring.

The dial on this 1970 Bulova Sea King 'FM' is a real looker. The blue is so deep you could take a swim in it. The 11BLL movement is quite simple but it gave me fits. The watch came with the loose stem and after servicing it the stem still kept coming out. It took me a good 6 or 7 disassembly / reassembly attempts to finally figure out that the yoke spring had originally been inserted "flipped", so that the long leg of the spring contacted the yoke, but that ended up exerting too much force on the yoke so that when the setting lever screw was loosened, the yoke would kick the setting lever cockeyed. Flipping the spring fixed it. I supplied a new crystal and a Duchess band which suits it nicely. Not too bad for about a $1 watch

Correct, Jan/23 is my one year anniversary--started with Mark's online classes last January then invested in tools and put together a dedicated workshop in my house over 2022. I had to give up two other lifelong hobbies a couple of years into my retirement, so endded up with lots more time than planned. Wife encouraged me to take the plunge when she noticed me following several watch repair youtubers for a couple of years.

The data sheets for Elma WF Pro cleaner and Elma Suprol Pro rinse show the same for disposal : Pity I can't heat my house with it, given the price of gas !

It says they are Rare so they must be worth it eBay is so full of chancers and shysters at times

This has been on ebay for awhile. It is on my watch list just for fun.

I printed this up over the weekend and got a chance to sit & try it out a couple times now. I knew I needed something, but holy cow, it really helps me find what I need easily and keeps me way more organized while I'm working... Duh. Also, behold the dirt cheap collection of (mostly) junky tools this beginner is working with here! The screwdrivers are better than they look. I have some titanium rod and I was thinking of machining my own screwdrivers from some of that, just to be different. I figure just delrin for the heads, which seems common. Anyways, I'm guessing most of these tools will be upgraded over time, but enough about the future. This uses a lot of plastic and of course it fits my tools and maybe not yours, but I uploaded a "step" file in case you know how to customize it for yourself. Yeah, tool blocks baby! We expect them for our screwdrivers, why not everything else? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5761830

Hi attached is a lot of files apertaining to the seiko casing guide information. 03. Casing Guide seiko.pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) IV. Cal. 3302 to 5245-6010.pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) V. Cal. 5245-7000 to 5740-8010.pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) VI. Cal. 6100-8000 to 6245-9001.pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) VII. Cal. 6306-5000 to 8346-9020.pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) I. Notes & Index.pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) II. Watches Japan Market Only (1).pdf Seiko Casing Parts List (1977) III. Cal. 0702-0723.pdf

If you have ever wondered how much Girard-Perregaux you can get for under four quid, the answer is... not much. However I couldn't resist. I mean .. a Girard-Perregaux .. for four quid... what's not to like? Its just a little bit of a shame that it missing... most of the watch, but then again.. did I tell you, I got a Girard-Perregaux for four quid. No idea if it works, but if it does, I feel a Franken-Girard-Perregaux may be in the pipeline. I have some really nice dials and a case or two that might do it justice as a dress watch.. or maybe I'll put it in an exhibition case... but I'm getting a little ahead of myself. I need to make sure it works first of course.

Can be used for home heating if your heater has gaseous fumes outlet, and you don't explode the house.

Hi guys the evaporation theory is ok but why not combine the kitty litter and the fluid that way there is no chance of spillage or contamination as the fluid I’d contained in a solid.

Nothing to complain about this seller! Supplying a list of Elgin threads with all detail in best quality for free

Just put a dial dot on it.

The photo quality is so good that it can be printed.

“You have an offer from the seller, $75.00 off Rare Vtg 1954 Elgin National Watch … Because you showed interest in this item, the seller sent you this private offer. Item ID: 195503817391 Buy It Now price: $500.00 Your offer: $425.00”

That's what I do too. I put the parts in small mesh pots, and put the pots in small glass beakers containing the cleaning/rinsing fluids (Elma), sat in the heated water of the ultrasonic. I only need about 40ml of fluid each time. I only do the one rinse, why two? Then I have the same problem as you, as to how to dispose of it. I have tried burning it, but it produces lots of black smoke. What I do now is put it in a shallow tray outside to let it evaporate. I use some flat sheets of kitchen roll with their edges dipped in the increase the surface area. But, winter in the UK is not the best time to do it! So I save it up until we get warmer/drier days. I have thought about using clay absorbent granules (or cat litter?) to soak it up and then put it in the household waste.

Henri xxxxx 21 Juillet 1892

Different canon pinion height is to accomodate for relevent complications on the base caliber, so if your watch doesn't have date or no other complicarion( base caliber) it requires shorter canon pinion, complicarions take up some space therefor require longer canon pinion. Google says sellita 210 is compatible with ETA 2i01, so if you go to Dr ranfft's site, you will find variants of ETA 2801 which often corresponds to different complications, thus requiring canon pinion of different height. Data sheets show all parts of a movements and their relevent tech specifications. Welcome to the WRT forum. Rgds

So you're the one 'watcher', haha.

I always like good news.

This evening I decided to take a look at a remarkably slim cylinder movement of unknown origin, with an engine turned silver dial, possibly from 1892, possibly considerably earlier, and maybe French. Any experts please chime in and let me know your thoughts. I picket this up for a few pennies, because I liked the look of the dial, and the blued screw construction. I have it working, but don't have any suitable hands for it yet. I presume it has had its original spring replaced, as the Maltese cross works are missing. There are a couple of inscriptions on the back of the dial, one from 1892, and a couple of others that are less distinct, one may say 1820. If anybody has any ideas about what they say, let me know. ... and the star of the show, the Guilloché dial. .. and a few more pictures for completeness.

Yesterday I was working on an Elgin with poor amplitude. I looked at under the microscope and could see some vertical wobbling of the hairspring but really could not tell if the hairspring was hitting the balance arm. Given my limited experience, I was hesitant to mess with the hairspring because, other than this slight wobbling, it looked good. Nevertheless I removed the balance and observed it outside of the watch and determined that there was a slight bend that was likely causing the hairspring to hit the balance. I would say it looked like this drawing I show here. Here is the amplitude I observed. I made a number of micro adjustments with my hairspring tweezers until I got it pretty level. This took me about 30 minutes being EVER so careful. Here is the amplitude after making the adjustment. Next I have to regulate it. Once I got the better amplitude, I stopped for the day!!

Another potential candidate on its way for the 404 club. Judging by the case and case-back style and similar watches on the web, this is probably a Poljot 2414 and possibly from the mid to late seventies. Described as "overound" it may be suffering from rusty keyless works, which are a common issue, or just generally gummed up with old USSR era tractor oil.

Hi what you must remember is that uniformity and conformity only exist as far as the manufacturer goes. Watch movements that use multiple screw sizes and special tools and single plate movements are designed to be serviced by the manufacturer or their appointed agents, not by enthusiasts/hobby and like wise interested people. So in the interests of protective trade they make it difficult by introducing specialities like the screws differ for several plates, or you need a special tool to adjust the rate, or a special screwdriver to remove the dial, calendar plate. The Chinese tool trade has in most cases managed to clone most of the tools required and the tech sheets are available, so maybe their work was all in vain.

This 1977 Bulova with an 11AOCD movement cleaned up nicely. Both dial feet were broken and the quick set date function didn't work but it's sorted now and ticking along nicely.

DONE