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Breguet: Art and Innovation in Watchmaking ...can't wait to dig in! g. ----

I got this NOS Elgin A-11 case from my new watch buddy yesterday. So I re cased my Elgin 539 which was also in a military issue case but was in poor condition.

This sounds reasonable. Except, I don't know how to do that. Does it have to be done by the original poster as they start the new thread or can't be added after the fact, by anyone? The clock on my VCR sill says 12:00. Shane

Hi Shane, the pillar drill is a different action to the small version. The whole container spins along with the fluid and baskets . Hence the agitation isn't as good as it could be but still works ok. The small one would work in its place when i have time to make a frame to secure the container. I was thinking of offsetting the spindle attached to the container to create turbulance but then came up with the cake mixer as a better idea Yes mate. Thats exactly what i was thinking i just didnt have the brain capacity to explain it in your excellent manner I would love to hear any thoughts you have Shane. I'm not any sort of engineer by any stretch of the imagination but i do have a way of cobbling bits and pieces together to make some kind of any working device.

A well thought out idea then ? . Actually it would be very handy here in the Uk with energy costs skyrocketing. Leave it in the sun all day, strap to my forehead by night and traverse my house with no lights on.

closest o can get is it any good for you AS 1608.pdf

I wish everyone had a similar moral compass, the world would be a better place. The last lot I bought just came all jumbled in a bag. I only bought it to get some shock springs to practice with.

It was a 12 movement lot. I also dabble in sales on platforms as well. My personal moral compass won’t let me send items without proper protection. It’s everyone’s hard earned buying what I sell. When I sell lots, Each get their own, CLEAN, small zip loc bag. Each gets wrapped in bubble wrap and then all get bubble wrapped together. Then box gets stuffed with paper for even more protection. I do not accept it being a buyer fault. I fault a sellers that cannot take an extra 5 minutes and spend an extra 50 cents to help ensure as safe a delivery as possible. It’s sad that someone actually believes it’s my fault someone decided to take my money and treat vintage watches and movements like they were a Budweiser bottle cap. No, it’s all about taking advantage whenever someone can. No moral fiber. I’ve never had a customer complain about how I ship and as a matter of fact, the quality of my watches, and the safety I take in shipping are the top 2 things I receive comments on. It can be done and far from breaks the bank. No excuse but laziness and over greed.

None necessary, my replies are to the thread, not any particular person, really. I understand having to choose where to spend the limited number of hours in a day Even more or less retired, I can't get to everything that I want to do. I understand limited space, too. We're in a townhouse apartment, not even close to the space we used to have, we've been doing "stuff triage" in an attempt to make enough room in the garage for the autos so they can be inside when the snow flies. Everything must go! I have a lot of vintage photo gear, some I've had since I was a kid, but it's time to say goodbye to it. A lot of Ebay and some donations. Oh well. Onwards!

I dont really have anything 70s retro but I've been liking some of Andy's collection just latey. So i jumped in on some ebay bidding a few days ago and got this space age looking Timex. It needs a little work, some minor scratches on the glass which will dress out easily and the stem comes completely out so i may need to do some parts searching but apart from that it is good condition. The case body is chunky and you can feel the weight of it on your arm, a bit like a Magnum .44. So i gotta ask myself one question " do i feel lucky " well actually yes i do punk because i really like it.

Well, here’s my first custom movement holder, pretty happy with it, in fact I wish I would have made this before I started on this movement, I’ll almost done with it. I ordered the 4040 anyway, but figured I try making one in the mean time. thanks for all the help guys!

I have my first full service project, a 1974 Seiko with a purple/blue dial now only waiting for a replacement bezel. For what it's worth, in every picture I took of this watch it appears deep purple. When looking at it in person, there's much more blue in the dial. Regardless of what I did I could not get a picture to show it how it truly looks in person. It's repair was lengthy, and quite a challenge for being my first top to bottom watch repair (as previously documented on this website). The bezel is shipping from Denmark to central USA. It was shipped on August 17th, and the last bit of tracking info I received was the that it was in foreign international dispatch on August 18th. It's been 2 weeks, so hopefully it will be arriving sometime soon. While waiting for that bezel to arrive, I decided to start on my 2nd full service project. I found an interesting green dial Seiko Lord Matic from 1972 on eBay and picked it up for a pretty good price ($38 before shipping). It was listed as a non-runner. It had a bent tooth on the barrel and a broken tooth on the 3rd wheel. A donor 5606A movement provided me with the needed parts, and after a full service I 'lightly' polished out some of the minor scratches in the case. I did not want to get out the sanding sticks and really start to move/remove to much metal in an effort to remove some of the deeper scratches. The case still shows some honest wear, but it looks much better in my opinion. I also taped off the flats on the top and sides of the case and ran it over some 3M Scotch Brite pads. I found a great looking pattern by using the 'Very Fine' for a few passes, and finishing with the 'Ultra Fine' pads. This one is ready now as well, minus 1 part. The faceted crystal in this Seiko Lord Matic was beyond saving. I had a difficult time trying to find a NOS replacement, and I believe I've identified a potential replacement via an old Seiko part number, but could never find an available picture anywhere. Cousins showed to have one in stock at a very good price so I decided to gamble on it and placed the order. The crystal should be arriving next week, so we'll see what it looks like when it gets here. Hopefully it will work, because the one NOS faceted crystal I did finally locate is quite expensive, so I'm pinning my hopes on the Cousins part doing the job so I don't have to order the other one! With the 1974 Seiko (on the right), I probably have a few dollars more into the repair of the watch than it is worth, but I don't see that as an issue personally. It was my first watch and turned out to be a very educational experience, well worth the cost of repairs. The green 1972 Lord Matic I believe is worth more now than what I have invested in it. These watches seem to command a little bit of a premium over the regular Seiko's of that time (at least the working ones on eBay do). I really like the look of this watch, and while both are a bit small for me in my opinion, having a 20.5cm wrist, I'm going to order some straps and wear them proudly. Once these are finished, next up on the list is a Jerome Piquot watch I picked up on eBay for $19. I know nothing about the watch, other than it was very inexpensive and I thought the dial had character. It has an AS 1686 movement inside, and from first glance (without disassembly) one of the case screws has a broken head and it is missing the seconds hand. It is so filthy inside the amplitude is basically non-existent. All of that aside, I think the dial is really unique. At first I thought the indices aside from 12, 3, 6 and 9 were all missing, but in fact they are cut into the dial. Close inspection shows that the dial is polished in those hour marker recesses. I think that is a pretty unique way to showing the hour markers. The movement looks simple enough to disassemble and parts seems to be somewhat available on eBay so I think I'm going to give this old $20 Swiss watch some attention in the coming weeks.

Hi LWS that looks the" Mutts Nuts" like the case back verification .

May I be one of the first to say how jealous I am. Beautiful watch. Shane

The end of life can be tough. It's a bit of a crapshoot, and I'm sorry your relative had such a hard time. Sometimes you can do well, my in-laws are independant and still enjoying their lives, and they are 89 and 90! They are both very generous people, and I think that has a lot do do with their success in dealing with old age. Cheers!

Typically, the pallet fork is left out until the train is installed and verified. Your photo shows it already installed. If that is the case it would make aligning the balance wheel very difficult. Shane

Probably the screw is loose or the retaining bar is damaged. Both are easy fixes. If you need parts, complete replacement movements are fairly easy to come by.

My condolences. Good philosophy to have though.

Moving to correct sub-forum. ---- Why is this happening? Please don't be offended - from time to time, in an attempt to keep WRT organized, we need to move threads to another area more suited to the subject of that thread. Members can help the forum staff by checking for a suitable sub-forum before posting as this will help to reduce their admin workload.

As I live the other side of the pond I haven't come across this make of clock.

Should be an AS 1604 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_1604&

Hello Everyone, I'm currently working with a very interesting vendor that sells sound source origination technology. Their solution was originally developed for the US NAVY under the aegis of DARPA. It's been consuming a lot of the spare time I was devoting to this platform over the last month or so. Sorry, gold over love. What's particularly interesting (and perhaps relevant to this group) is the fact that it relies on an extremely high-precision source of timecode to help triangulate the origin of the sound signature being detected. You may (or may not) know this, but the GPS system basically works along the same lines; a bunch of atomic clocks in orbit around the Earth broadcasting their "time of day" is a lot of the magic behind that absolutely groundbreaking localization system. Before the "introduced error" that was originally put into GPS was mitigated (mostly so civilian technologies could become more useful by being more precise) one of the ways to bring the resolution of origin down was to implement one or more ground-based proprietary timecode emitters at a known geographic location. Hewlett-Packard, for one, produced timing many bench-level devices that were able to operate at the atomic level in the civilian marketplace as early as the 1960's (HP 5061): They are still available today, if you have the coin: https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+5061a+cesium g. ----

Couldn't get continuity on the original balance, and oddly enough when I compared it to the working one I could not even see the weld on it. Maybe it failed and fell away long ago. No matter though, I have the serviced movement ticking and I can't wait to finish casing it. Thanks for the advice all, and apologies to the OP for hijacking this thread.

I've already got that covered. I did leather work for years make gun holsters and sheathes. I've got too many leather tools already! My day job and the leather hobby began to be in conflict (time wise), and I made a much better living doing my regular work than I could doing leather work, so I kind of fell out of it. I have tools for days, but not much in the way of materials any longer. My space is limited so my workbench is divided between my watchmaking tools and another hobby I've been quite involved in for years. The leatherworking supplies are all stored away. It's just easier for me personally to buy them at this point. Edit: After reading your message again I see that you were addressing @Neverenoughwatches. My apologies.

I've tapped out stuck pushers like this using a punch. I set the case on edge on a plastic block that had a hole in it for the pusher. Then hit the end of the pusher with a punch.

I missed it the first time- absolutely amazing work that guy did!

From what I've been able to find, they're a luxury watch manufacturer, currently employing 55 people and producing about 1500 watches per year, manufacturing it's own components. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H._Moser_%26_Cie As it's likely to be a rare and valuable movement, it's probably worth contacting the factory. Due to it's size and date, would it have originally been a pocket watch ? https://www.chrono24.co.uk/hmosercie/pocket-watch-hmoser--cie-chronograph-pocket-watch--id23126865.htm

Thanks WW. It was just a little play around while i was bored last night. I do have another idea that i would like to have a go at. This involves a cake mixer lol. I missed out on one for a tenner a couple of weeks ago at a carboot. The biggest issue is having 2 different directions of rotations to run automatically. This gives the best cleaning action. I was thinking with a basic cake mixer their are 2 axis of rotation, one rotation around another. This might give enough agitation to give a decent wash ?

What about the serial numbers on the dial side. You have a 383 there on its own, nothing from that ? Sorry mike i didnt see your input there. The 383 does look suspiciously like a calibre number Its looking like an independent watch maker Rasp. A swiss watchmaker from the mid 1800s, founded the company in Russia, sold on many years ago but now partly back in his great grandson's hands. Their recent models are very high end, i came across one at 80 grand. Every watch i came across has the HM stamp, if its completely in house you may be stuck barring making a stem. Yes mate almost certainly independently made. Heinrich Moser was pretty much the dog's nads. By all accounts a bloody genius entrepreneur, theres even a museum in his honor. He did a lot to put the Swiss town of Schaffhausen on the watch map. Also helped set up IWC in its infancy also in Schaffhausen, you could maybe have a look in the direction of their chronographs ? But whatever you have a valuable quality watch on your hands, I'm rather jealous.

Thats a shame. With a little more care the dial may have been perfect. I bought a lot of small boxes of named watch stems a few months ago. When they arrived most of the boxes had come open . I was left with thousands of stems to measure . Two days and a big refund later they were reboxed. It was good practice though You know theres a way to make comments without coming across like a nob right ?

Did you make 12 separate purchases from the seller >>OR<< did you simply buy a LOT OF 12 that happened to have the Bulova in it? When purchasing lots, they typically come loose in a bag. If the Bulova was your target, you could have sent a message to the seller and asked that it be handled separately.

My bid fpr watch of the day. Look at that dial. The whole dial glows in the dark. You would think wow what a great technological thought. But not well executed. Look at the hands. The hands are coated with the same color lume. You cannot discern the hands from the face in the dark.

Apparently it is an SNZG15 Here's the Case/Movement: 7S36-03J0 Here's some info on it I found on the Information Superhighway: http://www.watchsleuth.com/seiko5finder/search/?MOD=SNZG15 g. ----

I have 2 Seagulls which have 3 broken cap springs. These are the earlier generation Seagulls where the spring looks similar to the Inca but slides out instead of flipping up. The problem with these is the metal is not 'springy and they have broken. I find this quite common in chinese movements where the design is copied but the metal tech is poor, eg screws, springs etc. Anilv

wow, a full tear down on a 105 on your first go round? Be sure that the detent spring is engage like this. See how the v shape mates between the teeth?

Not sure JB weld will give you the flexibilty to bent the tab back into place but hey give it a try. Three tabs should work since the dial reflector ring helps when the crystal is snapped in to place. I too use an angle approach to lifting and bending the tabs. So here is the tool I came up with to help with this. No more than an exacto blade and the tip is notched soI can even used this tool to screw down a set lever screw. One techinque I use on all Timex dials is to bend the tab back to 90 degrees from the dial before refitting to the movement. This helps it fall into place better and not disrupt those darn day date detent srping that like to jump out of place. and doe the 262 dial look like this one in blue?

Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Disassembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part separately. Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Assembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the assembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. The following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled on the movement. The Unitas calibre 6325 is very similar to the Unitas calibre 6498 which is the course movement on watchrepairlessons.com. Unfortunately, due to its increasing popularity, the Unitas calibre 6498 is becoming more and more expensive, although there are inexpensive Chinese clones. So, in my opinion, Unitas calibre 6325 is an excellent and inexpensive option for the course. As a matter of fact, there is a version of the Unitas calibre 6325 having a bridge configuration that looks to be identical to the Unitas calibre 6498. You’ll find plenty of watches housing the Unitas calibre 6325 on eBay. Unitas Calibre 6325 links: bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Unitas 6325 - mtr-Ranfft Unitas 6325 - 17jewels.info „Wehrmachtswerk“; Unitas 6325 - Junghans Vintage

Alright, seems the verdict is clear, although hand winding a mainspring seems very tedious in today's world... Thanks everyone for helping solve yet another problem! This forum and its members are a fantastic example of what an online community can be. -- Best regards, Stian

Hand wind the spring in is easier. Never used m/spring winders for watches. I could never get on with them.