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BTW, this weekend I tried to straighten a pivot using your heated #8 tweezer technique. I improved it, but decided that since a new staff is available, the watch would be happier with it. Ordered several from Cousins!

I had to look that up, turns out it is a USA luxury car leather thing, and not, as I feared when I hit the Google enter button, a "specialist club" in London's Soho.

Hi LWS they work like the stackfred, Maltese cross work in pocket watches. the spring is tensioned about two/three winds then the stopwork is fitted . The idea being that the clock uses the center of the spring and not the ends so there is a constant torque on the movement and no top end power or low end loss

I would go for this one. All new springs come without that blue look it is just the way they are made these days. H 19 x Th 0.25 x L 1300 x Barrel 0.28

I don't say that from a position of tooling around in luxury cars and looking down my nose at the plebes. A photo from my parking spot at a previous job. Hint, I've never owned an Aston. Also, this was before the prices on buses skyrocketed (or at least at the beginning of launch). The guy that usually parked on the other side had a Range Rover Sport Bourgeoisie edition (I don't know what it actually was, but it was the most expensive one available at the time and he wanted everyone to know it). The Commercial model buses only had door cards on the driver and passenger doors for an interior. Maybe across the front, but mine was missing that by the time I got it. I had a huge car club back then, and we used to love "classing down the joint" and parking with all the other German cars (mostly BMWs, with the occasional modern VW and Mercedes thrown in) at shows.

I don't know that any Chrysler from the 80s really counts as a "luxury car"...

Yes, for turning collets (the end with the little "pip") and otherwise manipulating the spring.

Hi LWS I would aree with you on that, do the hollow ends have a little projection to fit into the collet gap for turning the spring.

The 5M65 is bigger and wouldn't fit in place of a 5M62. You could use a 5M82 but considering its price new a reasonable approach would be getting a donor mov.t or watch, otherwise accept the loss and sell for parts.

Hello and welcome to the forum. The watch pictured is of russian origin, of which there are quite a few. It would be handy if you could post a picture of the movement. Remove the back plate and a cloce up of the movement so members can see whate type/make it is and the caliber number

New to freeCAD, I told myself that is just and righteous because the circle can be a sector only, below 180 deg there would be no diameter to speak of.

@NucejoeHoly shit!! I missed that.

The second one got an extra indicator line between hr3 and hr4, but I like it.

I miss Corinthian Leather.

Thanks, Fixermole. Now I see how it fits. There is a small post on the underside of the barrel bridge that the part pivots on. This Benrus is also a 3 star like the one you worked on but does not have the linen dial. The case has seen better days but the dial and movement are good.

This is how I used to restore these movements. All brass parts polish with brasso with a soft brush and a clean cloth. Wash out in petrol and dry in sawdust then French chalk using a brush that is just used for the job, this prevents the brass from tarnishing quickly. All steel screws to be cleaned up by means of files mostly needle files, then polished by different emery sticks grit sizes in the end they will have a good shine, this I would do in my lathe. All the screws that had originally been blued would be blued again. I used a bend penny held in a small vice, when the right colour is achieved screws are then put in clean oil I used 3 in 1 this leaves a nice sheen. I would then clean them in an old watch cleaning fluid using an old cleaning machine that I had. You are going to need a clock mainspring winder for the springs, these are also cleaned in petrol I used pipe cleaners near the end where the arbors go as cloth would not fit between coils. Springs are to be lightly oiled with Windels clock oil. Winding arbors to be de burred and polished in the same way as screws don’t forget the end of the arbor that will be seen at the front of the dial nothing like seeing a highly polished square, also the tip of the centre wheel and the square of the brocot fine regulator that can be seen above the 12. All pivots cleaned polished and burnished. It has already been said how brittle the steel is so be very careful. Any re bushing is also undertaken and if you are very skilled when done you shouldn’t be able to see the repaired hole. Don’t forget the pendulum brass parts these are also polished and also the screw is also tidied up but not blued. If the collet is steel polish that as well. I think I have covered it all. Windels clock oil is used for all the oiling not just the springs. I forgot to mention don't forget to peg out every hole using peg wood until the holes are showing no dirty marks on the wood.

That is good practice. What I forgot to say one of the reasons why they are painted black is the marble ones were far more expensive. I didn't need to mention the steel because that has already been pointed out to you. Do not clean it in an ultrasonic tank, clean by hand.

Its not a marriage. This is how these types of french clock movements were fixed in wooden cases. I have seen hundreds of them. They were painted black to make people think it was black marble or slate. Every thing fits all the numbers are the same bezel, pendulum and movement. It will be 8 day duration, replace that spring with a new one. The style of the hands are called Moon. The info on the dial is the name of the seller and the address. It still has its original suspension spring.

I hate the parts restrictions as much as anybody, but they didn't come out of a vacuum. In the 70s the quartz crisis hit very hard. Manufacturers were closing left and right, and within a short time a quartz watch could be had for less than a mechanical, 10 times more accurate (or more?), and require only a battery change here and there. There were articles in trade journals on how to shorten the time time it took to perform an overhaul on mechanical watches- customers didn't want to pay the "going price" anymore. Partial disassembly or even cleaning entire movements became common with the introduction of final rinses that supposedly lubricated the movement correctly. By the 80s watchmaking schools were seeing a huge drop in applicants, older watchmakers were advising young people to find another trade, schools were closing or cutting their curriculum to the bone and essentially producing hacks. Rolex did begin restricting parts. At first it was checking on the actual ability of the watchmaker and seeing that they were adequately equipped. Then it got tighter and tighter, with requirements of making significant investment in seldom used equipment, more training, etc., then finally in the 2000s it has come to only supplying parts to watchmakers working in a Rolex dealer, with all the equipment and doing training and so forth. So it was a process over decades, and not done out of greed, but to guarantee a top level of service. I can say that having viewed the insides of some Rolexes that were 10+ years old or 10+ years after factory service, they look fantastic- Kifs still well oiled, oil sinks clean and oil filled, all great. A friend who worked for Rolex as a trainer told me they clean the movement 3 times for an after sales service. Pre-clean, then disassemble and inspect, peg all holes, pith all pinions, check the functions, replace any and all worn parts and certain parts regardless just as a precaution, clean again, then a final clean in pristine solutions. Epilame used where appropriate. Get some oil on top of the jewel?- back through the machine. Other makers have tried to follow suit, but without systematically building up the internal structure to handle the workload. So there are a lot of unhappy owners of Tag Heuers and other brands out there, who wait an unreasonably long time for a service, then get a watch back that many times has been given a subpar service. 20 years before the quartz crisis it was common to have your watch serviced once a year or so. It was OK to use lesser cleaning methods, and maybe not be as picky with oiling technique, as the watch was going to be redone in a matter of months. Also, the use of natural lubricants meant that oil would tend to thicken up and stop the watch before wear occurred. Now, if you miss something the watch might grind itself to dust on certain parts. So, rambling a bit, but just wanted to stick up a little for Rolex, as they have gone this route truly to ensure that their watches are at the level they desire (and I have nothing to do with them, I might see a couple a year and don't own one). At the end of the day I agree with the often used comparison to car parts. A friend has a couple of Porsches and does most of his own service work (he's also a watchmaker, haha), and he never has an issue getting any part for his cars. That anyone can buy anything for a device that is potentially lethal to the owner and others, while some mid-tier watch company doesn't want to supply parts to "ensure quality" is rotten. It used to be mentioned in discussions like these that buyers should vote with their wallet and only buy from makers who do supply parts, but it's gotten to where that pretty much eliminates everything. For the moment Omega is the star; with a reasonable outlay for some specific tooling for dealing with cases, and a modernly equipped shop, and a reasonable amount of training, you can get a parts account with them. A friend has one, and says they are also very easy to deal with and fast with getting the parts out. The same guy had an account with Zenith- but they decided to make their parts account holders invest in thousands of bucks worth of tooling (Ok...), and also order a minimum dollar amount of parts per year, which would equate for him to doing only Zenith work, haha. So he let it go. A shame.