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Sure, I'll go and chop down one of'em and try to burn it on top of my kitchen-range. All part of the "Great Reset" that will make us all happy. I.e. the super rich elite governing the world through politicians.

I have just serviced this Swiss made golf scorer. The main interest to a watchman is that the reset of the scores is done by turning the crown a full circle and each score is reset by the 'hammer' labelled A in exactly the same way as the second and minute hand flyback resets of a chronograph.

Welcome to WRT forum. You need a big magnet if you are going to work on them chinese movements, also might consider practicg shock spring removal inside a plastic bag. Good luck

They are surely indian origin. India had a long term vast watch tools industry, long before the chinese tools appeared. Even the Chinese sell some tools that are indian origin. I recognize them as I used to import Indian watchmaker tools for many years (the usable ones ). Frank

I have that set, but I now use them for prying/banging and otherwise abusive uses

Hi I just saw the 590.. it's actually nice looking but I'm not sure it'll be correct. However... there is a 580 on Ebay in NYC. The calibre is east to spot; obvs because of the day date but also the crown is at 4 o'clock. I will speak to my accountant (Mrs C). Perhaps I'll get that, remove the part.. and see if I can spec it up and copy it. I'll see. Thanks again. Jim

No. The purpose of the flexible finger is exactly to give protection for this occurrence, it just bends back. However with the years plastic may become brittle and break anyway.

The pivots on any staff are never the same as the pivots on the train. If you mean should the pivots be the same on the pallets as the pivots on the wheel train then yes very much. But don't forget to take into consideration the end shake and the diameter of the holes. There is a heck of a lot of working out entrance and exit of the balance to pallets for it to work properly plus getting the pallet pins correct and in the right place. Normally it is 8 beats per minute.

Welcome here. Since you have already hands on experience you should be able to do a lot before more training is needed, then when it comes to that I recommend the high quality one by our Host Mark Lovick at watchfix.com

Here it is. Unlikely this will be the ultimate configuration.

The marque JF in a hexagon is atributed to Jaccard Fereres France and dated around 1946

Not much help I's sorry to say. The pallets are completely missing they would be pin pallets. What is under the dial? that might give a clue. Is the balance staff OK only in the third photo the balance wheel looks to be at a funny angle. If you look here you will see a photo of the same movement posted some time ago. The movement is in a right mess but it does show the pallets. How about sending the person a message to see if he could help you with the pallets.

Hi, I'm new to all of this and I find it fascinating. I inherited a couple of really old watches and I would love to get an honest opinion of what I have in hand. Here is the first of three that I want to know about. Any help would be appreciated. Anyone know what this is? My Dad passed away and it was in a drawer. So, I cleaned it up and put a battery in it and it works great Many Thanks....

For acrylic crystals I remove them from the case and then use different grit wet paper, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 and finish it off with Polywatch. The result is always perfect. However, if you use this method be careful not to sandpaper the circumference of the crystal as it, naturally, will reduce its diameter. I made this sorry mistake on an original Omega crystal. Never again. For mineral glasses I use "Glass (Mineral) Polywatch Repair Polish" which works really well for light to medium scratches. However, if I were a professional I'd probably want to use a rotary tool technique instead. I'd be interested to try the technique described in the 1st post in this thread. I get the overall idea but I unfortunately several of the points are unclear to me and I wouldn't expect the author to elaborate so I won't even ask. Sapphire is probably near impossible to polish so I would recommend replacing.

Last part of this walk-through. Pallet, pallet bridge, and screw make 3 parts. This is a replacement pallet, and it has a large end-shake. I did not investigated further at the moment, as I wanted to see if it runs reliably in first place. I touched two of escape teeth with 9010. Cap jewels plate and its screw, 2 more. Balance, cock and screw consist actually of at least 10 parts, even if I haven't take them all apart. Balance jewels, end stones and springs make 6 more parts. For the occasion I bough the KIF Trior tool (largest size) which made installation significantly easier and safer. Lubrication is just 9010 under the end stone. Time to check that is running strong in all positions before moving on. For the record I got about 180° amplitude with the default lift angle. Beat error was 2.5 ms, pattern barely acceptable, and large positional error. Last are the date wheel, hour wheel, inner plate, date jumper, date ring, outer plate and its two screws. The date finger spring can be inserted conveniently and safely from outside. 9 more parts. I used HP-1300 on all arbors and contact parts. There are actually 2 last parts to fit, that's the dial screws (not pictured). It's probably a bit easier to fit them them as the very first thing. I have been counting parts to get to a total is 67 or thereabout, or 90 if we count the jewels separately. Not a small number for an economical, unsophisticated mov't. I hope that this no-pretense document can be useful somehow, thank you for reading so far.