Leaderboard

Seen in section a thread is an isoscele triangle. The back edge is the one of the two equal sides, the one that faces the head of the screw. The front in the one that meets the female thread first when fitting. Relieveng is removing material on a face that does not directly cuts, on a cutting tool.

For the most part parts never really disappear they're just really good at hiding. Yes occasionally one will hide so good it will never be found again but for the most part if you're willing to really look for you will find it. Normally big magnets and watches don't mix but big magnets and watch parts are definitely good. Then what exactly were you looking for? For instance I thought you were looking for a Tissot 782-1 As it has the exact right caliber number. You can find it at the first link below but it also find a whole bunch of other watches that have a similar number maybe they don't have to – but that all 782's I guess we got the pick and choose which one we wanted. Always best to give a name preferably of who made the movement. Often people new to watch repair think that whoever's name is on the dial or often times on the main plate is who made the movement sometimes it is sometimes it isn't. So we prefer who actually made the watch movement. Then the number of course and a pictures really nice. Especially if it's anything obscure it really helps a lot. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Tissot_782_1 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Dugena_1042 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Felsa_782 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Longines_782_1 Then it would be really nice if you could give us a picture of your watch because? Notice all the links up above kind of the standard place to look up watches and I'm not finding a Excalibur? Then a quick search online I'd be really curious to see your parts list for the watch? That will give me a better understanding of what's bothering me right now?

Sorry , its an Excalibur, 17 rubis, swiss made with incabloc, from sixties/seventies?. Good news panic over Taking " LittleWatchShops " (thanks) advice I got a more powerful magnet and went all over the place again and found it about 18" away and sitting on a wooden ledge 6 " from the floor between my desk and the wall. If in future If I need parts is it better to hunt for the make and calibre or just the calibre?

Don't just use a screwdriver on one side to remove it though as you will damage things, you need 2 leavers on opposite side of the wheel to lever it up evenly.

Nothing disappears. Get a magnet and sweep.

That, and why not posting a picture for good measure. It helps others help you, and disseminate information at the same time.

May be I missed somthing but what make is it.

Foreword, sorry I never made a tap, but I think you understood correctly. Before I didn't even realize that there are edges on tap threads (it's a cutting tap not a forming one) so I wrote face instead, but in fact relieving the whole "back face" even for a single thread be not just difficult but wrong. The point where threading starts, or ends if you consider that starts from the head. I think he means diameter. In other words make the tip tapered The plate won't stay mint for long if you try to thread pivot steel with it. If you bought from Cousins that is actually Indian spring steel, very hard and difficult to machine. I recommend that you use standard tap and dies, even if you want to make your own tap. Start getting the feeling of what is what by experimenting on brass first, then bronze maybe, then leaded steel (which can be hardened to an extent), then O2, tool steel or the like. You're in the UK and can get all these materials easily.

Yes, the first few threads will be tapered but also grind a little from the trailing edge of the thread to the cutting edge, exactly what you've emphasized in the pic above. The blue steel you have isn't useful for making taps, it will just kill your screwplate. The standard steel in the U.S. would be O1, which is available from multiple suppliers and costs very little. I'm sure you can find it in the U.K. but probably minus the "cheap as chips" aspect. I'm sure there are suppliers to model engineers who carry "silver steel", which is a catch-all term for hardenable steel.

FFS do you ever sleep?

One of my classmate's father was also a watchmaker. Classmate told me someone came in with a stopped Rolex. Dad looked at the guy and was 100% sure it was fake and pried the back off to change the battery (this was the 80s when fakes didn't have screw backs)..... it was real! I asked how the hell his dad managed to pry off a Rolex screw back, he just said with some distant fear in his eyes, "you haven't met my dad..". Luckily back then it was doable to get a new back, expensive but doable. My classmate had been a boilermaker in shipyards before going to watchmaking school, and if there was ever anyone I've known who could crush a golf ball like Oddjob it was him. I know it's impossible but he would have come close!

Acrylic is easily polished by hand with any compound on a cloth. About sapphire, show me first a good picture of the problem and we'll go from there.

Miyota Calibre 9015 Disassembly Miyota Calibre 9015 Assembly A few words about this walkthrough The disassembly pictures do not contain any close-ups of the screws. However, the assembly pictures do. I couldn’t find any oiling suggestions for this movement, so I’ve used my own experience to determine what oils to use. If you want to contribute your own oiling suggestions, I would be very interested. I’d even be willing to update the pictures. To avoid over-oiling posts and bearings, I oil them after the parts have been assembled. Once I see that the oil has spread around the post or bearing, I know it’s sufficiently lubricated. That’s why you’ll see my oiling suggestions after the parts have been replaced. A nice feature of the Miyota 9015 is that it doesn’t contain any parts that are tricky to handle, so in this respect it is a straightforward movement to service. However, it contains many parts (see the video), so this walkthrough will, I’m sure, facilitate the job. The movement itself, isn’t stamped with the Miyota logotype or calibre number. Instead, this information is found on the top of the oscillating weight unless the movement has been branded, like in my walkthrough example (Ingersoll). Please note that this walkthrough is not a tutorial. I make these walkthroughs for my personal use, although I’m happy to share them. The idea is that the next time I service or repair the same or a similar calibre, I can focus on the job rather than spending time on figuring out what goes where and why. Also, making a walkthrough you get to understand the movement quite well. If you have no experience, you should know that there are a few things you need to learn and understand before you can successfully service a watch movement. It is not "rocket science", but it takes some effort, perseverance, and practice. It also requires some watchmaker tools and oils. If you want to learn how to repair and service watches on-line, I recommend watchfix.com, learnwatchmaking.com, or timezonewatchschool.com, in that order. I’ve enrolled to all these courses, and they are all good, but in my opinion watchfix.com is the best and most affordable. And no, I’m not affiliated with watchfix.com, watchrepairtalk.com, or @Mark (who’s running these sites). There’s also nobswatchmaking.com and perhaps some other… but I have no experience with them. Background and Miyota 9015 vs ETA 2824-2 comparison In 2015, before I knew much about watch movements at all, my greatest watch dream was to own and wear a vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Aqua-Lung Diver, but not having the USD 25,000 or so to spend on a watch I decided to look for an affordable homage. Eventually, I found the Helson Skindiver (still available for USD 699). Nevertheless, I was hesitant to pull the trigger. Why? Because it housed a Japanese movement! To be more precise, a Miyota calibre 9015. That was not what I had in mind for a watch with a price tag above USD 500. I wanted a Swiss high-quality movement, like the ETA 2824-2. In the end, however, I decided to take a chance, make or break. The Japanese Miyota calibre 9015 is presented as a premium movement, and it even comes pre-decorated with Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) and a sun-burst rotor. It is housed in many of the more expensive micro-brand watches, like the mentioned Helson. I’ve heard people call it an "ETA 2824-2 killer", but it only costs about USD 100 or even less. So, the question is, does it live up to what it promises? Getting into the details of this movement I was surprised to see how many sections of it were like or inspired by the ETA design. That is the gear train, the dial train (motion works), and the keyless works look a lot like an ETA. And just like the ETA movements, and unlike many other Japanese movements, the Miyota 9015 contains exactly zero plastic parts. If I had not known that this was a Miyota, I would have thought it was a new ETA prototype as it is also thinner and overall looks and feels more modern. A major difference between the 9015 and the 2824-2 is the automatic works. In the 9015 the barrel, the gear train, and the automatic works are all held in place under a single bridge. In the 2824‑2, on the other hand, these sections all have their dedicated bridge. The single and decorated bridge of the 9015 looks nicer, but there are a lot of pivots, wheel teeth and pinions (also fitted and secured under the bridge) that must fit and mesh before the six bridge screws can be secured. Luckily, the precision of the parts is so precise that it doesn’t pose a problem. One just must be a bit careful and observant. Another difference is that the oscillating weight (rotor) of the 9015 is unidirectional, whereas the oscillating weight of the 2824-2 is bidirectional. That is, the oscillating weight of the 9015 only winds the mainspring in one direction, whereas the 2824-2 winds in both directions. For this reason, I assumed that the automatic winding of the 9015 would be less efficient than that of the 2824-2, but in practice, I quickly learned that this is not the case. Even after a somewhat lazy day I never get less than the specified 42 hours of power reserve. So, how does this Miyota 9015, 28.800 BPH perform as a timekeeper? Well, the largest difference in variance between two days that I’ve measured is 1.9 seconds. Well-regulated this means that the 9015 has the potential to be as accurate as any COSC certified watch. I don’t mean to say that it would pass the extreme tests of a COSC certification (not without some modifications), but under normal circumstances, that would apply to most wearers, it is up there with the best. Getting back to my Helson Fifty Fathoms homage from 2015. How did it perform? In one word, perfectly! I was so happy with it that when waking up in the morning I made it my first priority to get it on my wrist, even before my underwear. Anyway, it was up for a service, and as I didn’t want to take any risks, I decided to buy the least expensive used watch housing a Miyota 9015 I could find on eBay for practice. After some looking around, I found a used "Ingersoll Empire State". That is the watch I used to create this walkthrough. Another strategy could of course have been to simply buy a new or used 9015, but it is always more fun to buy a complete watch, and to service a watch movement. So conclusively, does the Miyota 9015 live up to its promise of being premium? If you ask me, in one word, yes!

You're not supposed to use the levers the way you describe? You're supposed to kind of combined the techniques of Nucejoe With his razor blade edge and the benefit of the wage shape of the lever. I have a picture out of the catalog not quite right but close enough. You're supposed to push the levers straight in the sharp edge is supposed to go under the collet. Because there's a little more of a wage shape than the razor blade edge the collet will lift up naturally. Only when the levers all the way under you could push down and just pop the collet up. Usually that isn't necessary. You never want to twist especially if you're trying to twist to go under the collet because that means you're not under the collet you're on the edge and you're going to lift they hairspring up instead of the collet. In other words a recipe for disaster. The unfortunate problem of tools not just expensive Swiss tools now that are made cheaply is that they do have to be shaped correctly. I've seen some of the levers that are basically worthless because the shape is not correct.