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There was a post on this forum a while ago & it ;looks like the same movement part from the escape.

Mineral oil should be ok for 5yrs and synthetic for 10 years providing:- Keep in sealed container, preferably glass. Metal containers may deplete any anti-corrosion, passivating additives in the oil. Plastic maybe ok but some oils will react with plastic so best avoided. Keep stored in cool, dark place which stays fairly constant (heat will oxidise the oil quicker and very cold may cause water crystals as most oils have some very low levels of water in them). Try and keep the container as full as possible to reduce the amount of air (the air will enable oxidation). I always store mine upside down to avoid ingress of air through the cap, (the air could be moist), believe it or not air will get in as the temps change and the air 'pumps' in and out but the oil will not leak out !! As long as the cap is covered internally with oil then this is ok. Pour or drip the oil out when required and avoid putting anything in the oil as this will likely introduce dirt. High quality oils should last longest.

If they were new when you bought them there won't be a problem.

I use finger cots (left hand) when assembling a watch & sometimes latex gloves when assembling a clock. However I have been getting used to assembling without touching the parts & just manipulating with tweezers.

They work like this? At midnight the date should shift. And after a couple of hours the day shift to the non-chosen language . And after that the day should shift to the chosen language . If it's to soon you should set the day to the next day?

There's only one time position that exists (pragmatically speaking) without the hands and dial and that's midnight, which is whenever the calendar changes. Set the hands to 12 when this happens.

@nriddell is right. Advance until the date just turns over, then keep going to see how far till the day turns over. Usually doesn't turn over till some time (sometimes 2 hours) after the date changes, but it shouldn't be so off synch. Once you have the day turning over sometime after midnight, go ahead and advance until the date just turns over, then place the hands. Also, make sure the watch isn't running while you try to place the hands! JC

Jguitron - Before you put the hands back on the watch, did you advance the winder / time until the point when the date just clicks over to the next day? If you did not do this part, the position of the hands will not be synced up to midnight.

Hello there everyone, This is an update from this thread: I am returning to update as promised to those interested. I took it to my watchmaker to get repaired and to verify the movement. He was pretty excited to work on it, and said it's all original and there hasn't been any messing around. It was gunked up bad with old oils and dirt. He took it apart, cleaned it all, and put it back together. Success - it works. My next venture was to to take to a casemaker. This wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. I scoured the forums for suggestions and found a few. None of them wanted the job. Too far gone, they said - but I wasn't giving up that easy. I found a casemaker suggested on watchuseek. I gave him a call, he said he'd see what he can do. The watch was packed and sent to him. I asked for the following: New buttons to replace these worn and beaten old boys (see image: http://imgur.com/9LdnjJf) Case refurbishment (see image: http://imgur.com/sRnknpK) Re-threading to the caseback (this was the hardest part. The case itself was actually worn away. He managed to do it, but it's not ever going to be flush. At least it doesn't pop off anymore! See image: http://imgur.com/4znGVnd) Gold plating (Wrist shot: http://imgur.com/LawvWB3) In terms of monetary value, this was in no way worth it. In terms of loving a watch, it was. I am so pleased with the outcome, and glad I went hell for leather on this piece. Hope you enjoyed the pictures, here they are in an album (in random order) - http://imgur.com/a/4TdOd Cheers & Happy Holidays V

Unless I'm mistaken, it's not a canon pinion as you know. The pinion is a taper fit onto the pin that just protrudes through. The minute hand would have been fitted to that part of the pin. Support the movement on a steel or brass block with a hole in it to allow the other end of the pin to fall into. Now very carefully using a small hammer and brass punch, give the end of the pin that protrudes through the pinion a sharp tap. The pin should now free from the pinion.

I marvel at the simplistic beauty and function of these timepieces, well done!