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Our great member, Geo offered to help me out recently should a UK supply company not shipping to Finland, Geo stepped up, and has proved his weight in gold, transhipping my order. Thanks G!

If the crystal is attached to the case, not the bezel, then this definitely comes out the back. If the movement will not rotate in the case, it is likely you haven't freed it yet. There are 3 other large screws around the edge of the movement, are these the retaining screws?

I he's not bad is our @Geo bless him.

I have one as well, exactly the same and have found it to be worth having. The line free facility that sends the pointers spinning came in useful a few times though once it sent the minute hand flying off, however that turned out to be the fault. The audible pulse sensor proved death in one of them, bought it as friends and family kept giving me quartz watches to sort out and as George says for the money it's ok. The tests are basic and based on a majority of watches at the cheaper end of the market? You do not need to do much except follow the instructions blindly, get a working watch at the pound shop and play with the line free and pulse facilities to see them work to prove your machines ok. Don't forget the watch you test may actually be dead and perhaps that's why your machine seems not to work. I personally never "got into" anything other than a very basic idea on how a Quartz watch works but have got away with changing batteries and getting rid of dirt (or a small hair on one occasion) to free the train. Cheers, Vic

Okay here is my first, (virginal) walkthrough, I got this 17j Hampden for less than $30, it's not uber rare scarce or anything uncommon, anyway upon arrival, I immediately noticed some rusty hands and lack of winding (AAAARRRGGH), fortunately it was just from cheap crystal, (I think) the seconds hand is almost gone!) Next off they came and things still looked pretty good. I don't like dust shields and read somewhere they are not recommended/necessary on Hampdens anyway. when I got under dial, the cannon pinion and hour wheel were pretty toasty, otherwise it was pretty clean. Next, off comes balance assm and out comes pallet bridge and fork. Just in case, I did try to let down mainspring, but that appeared to be part of problem. Then comes main barrel bridge, winding wheel, third and fourth wheels and bridge, note steel escape wheel and white/clear jewels on pallet fork. Out comes barrel and arbor And just as suspected, mainspring is a goner! Note the serial number inside barrel, matches the rest of watch Dial cleaned up pretty nice, lot's of hairline dirt removed. Still has some nibbles between the 10 and 11, that's what I call character! New spring In goes the new spring, I did this by hand, (too cheap to invest in winder!) Just a pinch more to tighten up arbor and greased. Patiently awaiting their return after cleaning. The cannon and hour wheel were replaced, I got lots of parts, so no issues there. Now with everything tidy, back goes barrel and bridge Third and fourth wheel bridge, plus touching up pivots/jewels with oil as we go. This last part can be a bugger if you don't line everything up, I give it a "soft screw", pardon the expression, but I'd rather check everything before it gets tightened, (learned the hard way on that one) New Cannon Pinion, hour wheel and dial washer on and dial ready for replacement. A few more touches of oil on dial side pivots. ( a bit heavy handed on the barrel, did clean that up a bit) I picked out new hands, pretty fancy scmancy and had to replace second hand too. Now I know I didn't show all that boring stuff with the keyless works, set springs and winding wheels and mainplate cleaning, but it all had to be done, I just wanted to show how relatively simple these movements and others like them are to work on and hopefully get some others to try their hand. One quick vid, she's running like a scalded cat! DSCF0401.AVI

Happy birthday !

I would ask May Moorhead at Northern Watch and Clock Supplies. She might know where to track one down.

Superb, can't be with out mine, great investment for me, I'm sure you will use yours plenty too, the tips can easily be damaged, so be careful, however, the replacement tips can be found on various sites, and not expensive.

Steady guys, I'm getting embarrassed!

I had a similar problem and I had to change the o-ring. The old one had hardened and wasn't going in its groove in the bezel - no matter how hard I was pressing the bezel - it wasn't going to close. You shpul measure the groove (not the old o-ring) and put the right-dimension o-ting in there Good luck!

Line free spins the movement fast. This can free up a dirty/sticky quartz movement. Pulse test . Checks the ECB is working (pulsing) Cell testing. Checks the battery has power.

I have written a lot on this subject in this forum ,other forums & also had a article published. As I predicted and many who have been in the industry for a long time also predicted this. Unfortunately this was ignored & the Swiss are beginning to pay the price. Instead of spending a lot of time and lots of money in the courts defending a non sensical policy of non supply of parts they should have been developing a standard,replaceable smart watch unit. This would have maintained their dominant position in the horological world.

Murdering poor defenseless porpoises to steal their oil is generally frowned upon and that would include whales in the same category. Anchor oil has really interesting properties especially when you Google it. Then usually in horological discussion groups the subject is undesirable lubrication. So you have to wonder if the few horror stories you hear are just a few or whether all of the oil is bad? Then Pegasus oil I have no idea what that is?

All fixed now.

So, a lot of the guys on this forum really know their stuff and are heavily involved in servicing and the like. Some of the other forums have groups of 'fanboys' (I suppose they might be called) who will defend their brand of choice to the death. I got into horology through Seiko because of their low entry point (for mechanicals). To use an analogy, I'm probably still using stabilisers when it comes to knowledge. What I'm getting at in a roundabout way is....Should I be surprised that so many people on this forum love their Seikos so much? N.b. I've got several Seiko watches, so to mix it up a bit here's my Bulova Accutron Deep sea from 1970 (same age as me)

Seiko this... Seiko that... I don't know what's wrong with you guys, these are ugly and boring watches, of poor quality and finishing.

Today my father's watch will meet my daughter!

If you dissect the microphone that came with the Escapement Analyzer software you'll find it has the same green sensor as found in the modified Greiner timing machine pick up. Then in the pickup there is a little bit of circuitry two transistors and three surface mount components soldered together. For the Greiner Pickup we can't see were all the wires go it's possible the circuitry is in there somewhere. So I've attached a photograph of what the microphone looks like dissected. Then as the green thing is rather unique in color and shape I suspect it's probably this one http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/vibration-sensors/0285784/ http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/009f/0900766b8009f3f3.pdf