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I don't use a lathe to reduce the diameter of the pin I use something else but I'm a bit puzzled as to why is it too big in this particular case is that's extremely big? By some chances as the balance bridge off another watch? -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Yes, remove all the power first so that the pallet fork can be taken out safely after the balance. Fit the winding stem so you can wind the watch up, don't get into the habit of using a screwdriver to turn the ratchet wheel. While the delicate bits are out of the way, take note of any excess side and end shake in the train, including the barrel. Now wind in a little power and pay attention to how free the train spins. A good indication is when the escape wheel backs up for a second or two at the end. It doesn't necessarily mean that there is a problem if it doesn't do that. These are checks that you should do naturally during assembly. Saves time finding problems at this stage, rather thsn piecing it all together to take it apart again. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Any forger can add relevant dial print and case engraving, if he know what and where to put it. This doesn't look real, but remove the back to find out for yourself Lily. -
So I take the wound of the mainspring as I normally would do, before taking a watch apart. And looking if the escape wheel make some reverse motion? -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I wouldn't change anything just yet, trial and error swapping can definitely be a scenario that will get you lost, if you dont keep track, and won't teach you much either. Carry on with what is already in the movement, go back to basic function group testing. Start with checking how free the train of wheels turn together ( no balance and no pallet fork fitted ) and examine their shakes one by one, looking for excess. Note if the escapewheel makes some reverse motion as the mainspring becomes fully unwound.
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