Jump to content

Can't manually move hands


Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm here on behalf of my dad who seems to have trouble fixing his watch. It is called "andre belfort sapphire crystal ab-8110" and he's unable to move hands manually. He's had it to a repair shop and they were unable to fix it as they said the part they needed was obsolete. It's an automatic winder but he can't alter the time on it because it appears to be locked. 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the problem, the movement will have to be removed to allow the problem to be traced and rectified.  

It would be interesting to hear what obsolete part the the watchmaker said was required.  It looks like a fairly new Chinese movement to me, the part is probably not obsolete, but more than likely unobtainable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Identifying the movement might help. There is a Citizen 8110 which is a chronograph auto. If it is this movement then the parts are indeed obsolete. As Geo suggests the movement needs to removed partly at least stripped to identify the fault. The issue for a watchmaker is when stripped and a part needs replacing but is not available he still needs paying for his time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The movements used in these are of Chinese origin possibly a seagull ST16 I think they are made to look like chrono's but dont actually have that function

Wayne

Edited by wls1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites

dave;  taking apart a watch like that might be a problem if you have not had one apart, BUT this forum is the right place for help.  i have had a couple "locked up" watches and  was surprised to find a "loose screw" which can be an easy fix.  those auto-winds often do that.  good luck and welcome to the forum.  vinn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, I hate to say it, but sometimes it's just not worth fixing. If it's a keepsake, just put it in a drawer somewhere and buy another watch. It can cost more than the watch is worth to fix it unless you can do it yourself; even that can cost quite a lot of money for parts. You can often buy an entire movement for what they want to charge for a balance wheel and hair spring.

Dave

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That'll be a chinese TY2867 then. The movement costs £25 plus postage from Cousins, and the only spare parts on sale are stems.

So I guess a watchmaker is going to charge double that, plus VAT, plus 2-3 hours labour with the fiddling of adjusting hands, dial and stem to fit (ask me how I know). Parts are unlikely to be interchangeable between movements as what is ostensibly a standard movement is made by different factories to their own tolerances and minor variations.

If you can do any work yourself then fine, and with the above info, the repair shop may (or may not) be more helpful, but these watches are available new on ebay for £150 - £200, so might not really be worth repairing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...