Jump to content

Vintage Omega help


Recommended Posts

I have two pieces I would like some advice on. New to the forum, and am looking forward to the knowledge this group brings to the discussion. I have owned/own vintage pieces, and am considering these as projects. The first piece is a Cal 352 Ref. 2577/2520 in 18k. I’m very fearful of water damage and rust in the movement. Also, the dial seems to have some water damage as well. But please tell me if I’m wrong! https://imgur.com/a/YFBGUnb

The next piece is a good clean example. Not sure Ref. As I haven’t seen the movement. The issue is. Fairly bent lug. It seems to hold a spring bar in place, but if the case has any weakening or micro fractures I would be weary of purchase. https://imgur.com/a/pGHaATO

Thanks a lot!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couldn,t open the links.

Extent of water damage can only be guessed, untill all movement is stripped..

Should you like to post the pic on forum or if otherwise make available, so to get  more opinion

I hate to be the one to say this, water is a leukimia to movement., replating...,.etc

It will never bethe jewel it was before water, immediate cleaning helps a lot..In case of unavailability of immediate cleaning nor the back removal, depending on the qualiy inside the case, I would go as far as to recommend braking the crystal to place the watch under the sun light for evaporation..

Regards joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello @Chefbengates! Welcome to the forum. You have two great time pieces there. I am partial to the Omega Seamaster Chronometer, so let's start there. I am including some screen shots of your photos for convenience of others that want to see the movement. Aside from oxidation on the plates, the stem and underneath the oscillating weight, and the oscillating weight bridge itself are areas where I see evidence of some corrosion--probably moisture coming into the case through the crown? How do the bumper springs look? The dial looks OK, but the condition of the movement leads me to think there might be some rust under the dial especially the keyless works. How is it winding and setting? I case back markings lets me know the watch has seen lots of hands, and someone replaced the original sweep hand and the crown. The watch is certainly worthy of getting a good cleaning and thorough inspection. 

The Seamaster automatic is in better condition cosmetically, and I see the dial is re-done, and the small seconds hand and the crown have been replaced at some point. Straightening the lugs requires a professional with specific tools, and I had some proficient work done for one of my watches by someone. I could give you specifics if you're interested.

1997187159_ScreenShot2018-10-15at10_42_05AM.png.e8b924c1ace99804aeaf7b23857b5f02.png

436213592_ScreenShot2018-10-15at10_41_54AM.png.968601adbd5dff8cabd7b1c8df5d412c.png652683580_ScreenShot2018-10-15at10_42_41AM.png.b92f95d434de3e4cb9a40845a83d3ef0.png

 

 

Edited by noirrac1j
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That Turler-badged one is beatuful. Completely filthy, but doesn't look rusty. Those movements are not too hard to find, so I'd be more concerned about the dial which looks nice to me.

The second dial looks re-painted to me, and that's a non-no for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Water is a killer of movements especially if allowed to dry out over a long period.  I wish I could be as optimistic as rodabod regarding the Turner Omega, but I fear you will find some considerable damage when you strip it.  These bumper movements are up there with some of the best for time keeping, so I sincerely hope I am wrong about the possible damage.

Have a look at this, it will give you an idea of how to tackle the job:

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just got these good quality diamond files from the bay for Just a fiver, we all love a bargain dont we. Brand names are J.K.Smit  and Triefus, two old diamond tool makers so not cheap crap.
    • Its a touch under ive just remeasured it and added a wrist shot. Unbelievably it was £13  plus 3 postage. You dont find watches that nice for that money every day of the week. Maybe removing the epilame in the oil region improves the purpose of it. We may know very soon as i emailed Episurf 4 hours ago to ask that exact question. 🤞they are happy to provide an answer for us. How do you fancy trying a stearic acid vapour treatment experiment  H .  Shall i have a go this afternoon ? Stearic acid experiment underway,  its started to melt at around  65° C. The idea is to find a large cap jewel to suspend over the vapour release. 
    • That's the size of my grandfather's Ernest Borel watch. Definitely not a lady's watch! 👍
    • Thanks H It does have a big crown for the watch , it could be considered a ladies watch these days i guess, it measures 33mm case 36mm with that large crown 18mm lug space. A tad small for a guy of today, but still very wearable. The photo was deceptive so here it is adorning my 7 1/4 " wrist. It need some love to make it run better. The hair coils are touching so running a bit fast at the moment,  not caused by magnetism, and maybe just a clean and a service. The dtal is in fantastic shape.
    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
×
×
  • Create New...