hi guys, my obsession is early Timex watches from the 1950s, 60s and 70s with a particular focus on 1976 birth year watches, Dundee made pieces and early 50s pieces.
what attracts me to Timex is how disposable they were and how they shouldn't have lasted as long as they should. there's a UK connection and a wide range of mechanical pieces produced in 1976 when the quartz crisis was at its height.
unfortunately i have the money but not the time to restore many of these pieces so for now stick with m24 (no date) restorations with others being helped out by the timex community on fb and ig. (@timetrope)
my current challenge is getting date wheels on m25 movements back on. theyre tricky. and getting crowns to stay in place on m21/22 movements which im hoping some new antimagnetic tweezers will help with.
if your looking to sell or trade pieces then my goal is to collect them ALL and even at 200 im short quite a few
Good afternoon everyone
I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me get an old Timex Diver watch up and running again.
So, as I said when I introduced myself, I recently found my very first watch, an orange faced Timex Diver which I got for Christmas in 1973. My 7 year old daughter has asked me if I can get it repaired so that she can use it. Now I will be the first to admit that I don't know anything about watch repairs but I am a 'have a go' type of fellow and manage to fix most things myself, usually with a little advice from knowledgable people.
The story so far is that you can see from the first photo that the winding stem / crown assembly is missing and on removing the back case, that the retaining lever and screw are also missing. According to my Dad, I overwound the watch as a boy and the watch repairer said that it was not financially worth fixing. That would have been around 1977. The Diver watch identification number on the dial is: 23772 2573. From my research, the first number is the watch case identification number and the second number is the watch movement number and the year of watch manufacture. In which case, it has an M25 movement and the watch is from 1973 but I am unable to find a part number for the stem and crown assembly other than it starts: 401/1 TXJ1 ........?
I also have an old 21 Jewel Timex watch which keeps very good time and has an identification number on the dial of: 6544 7569. I am led to believe that dimensionally, the M25 movement and the M75 movement are the same. The difference being that the M75 movement uses rubies for bearings rather than hardened alloy. If that is the case, I'm hoping that if I swap the dials and hands over, I could use the M75 movement in my old Diver watch. Obviously, I would still need to find a winding stem / crown assembly to fit the case as the one on the 21 Jewel watch looks too long. See photos attached.
My first question is: Are the two movements interchangeable? My second question is: If the movements are interchangeable, does anyone know what the part number is for the winding stem / crown assembly to suit my watch case (23772)? And if so, does anyone know where I might be able to buy one?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks in advance,
Been struggling through a number of #31 movements. This particular one was bought as a "running" watch, but it's been anemic from the start with some 80° of amplitude, just no momentum at all. I've cleaned it, oiled it, checked it and repeated some 3 times now, with nothing seeming to help.
One thing I've noticed is that the unlubricated movement always sticks hard on the trailing palette pin. Give the pin or balance wheel a flick and the escapement wheel kicks the first pin out easily and then hangs on the 2nd. I've lubed the pins before (which is a bit tough) and this (along with other general oiling) gets it going with the poor amplitude, but never for long.
Could the pin be bent in towards the wheel? Doesn't look it. Hairspring seems nicely shaped. I've lubed both pivots of the balance shaft and attempted to remove end-shake, but that adjustable brass pivot is getting pretty mauled.
I'm really trying to avoid taking this movement apart completely. Any thoughts? Thanks!
I'm well aware that Timex's don't get a lot of love and are known for not being so easy to work with, but mine was my father's and I'd like to get it working again. By the time I found it 3 weeks ago, I'm pretty sure it hadn't be worn in 35 years or so, but with a little wind and steady wearing, it started working and didn't keep bad time. At the end of a couple weeks, I'd noticed it wasn't keeping time and often running out of power after short periods. Eventually it stopped altogether.
Being an overconfident novice, I found its manual online, did some reading (here and other places), and proceeded to take it apart, thinking I was being careful and looking for the obvious. Well, I never did figure out what was wrong, but in the process of putting the watch together and apart several times (NOT easy lining up all the pins and stem assembly), I stretched the hairspring into a nice tornado and that essentially killed the project...
Ticked off that I screwed up my Dad's watch, I found another one like it on ebay that expressly said it didn't work. It's in equally good shape and when I opened it up, it was wet inside. I couldn't make out if it was water or a fine oil, but I ended up soaking the movement in lighter fluid hoping for a clean and a dry out. It did dry it out fine, but didn't magically start working even though I could see and feel that the mainspring held a wind. I used my oiler and Mobius oil in the divots of all the pivot points that I could reach, but still no movement. The balance wheel swung freely if tapped and the pallet lever rocked back and forth into the teeth of the escape wheel, but the escape wheel had no impetus of its own. If I flicked it forward, it would move the pallet lever and swing the balance wheel, but it wouldn't keep advancing.
So, I'm stuck with somewhere between the tensioned mainspring and the escape wheel energy not being transferred. As best as I can tell, all the gears are in their proper pivot points. Because I found a little rust color on the rotor plate, I put some liquid wrench on it until I could brush the discoloration off and then back into the lighter fluid to get the liquid wrench off. I don't know if the gears are rust bound or something and am trying to avoid taking the whole thing apart again as I'm concerned I'll just screw this one up as well.
Is there a way to check if the gear train is mobile in order to figure if it's locked up? As far as I know, power isn't getting from the barrel to the second wheel, but I have no way of telling as nothing is moving between there and the escape wheel. I can flick the escape wheel forward, but it's going to take a lot of flicks to get back to the second wheel and move it enough to figure if it's binding or not.
If it comes to it, I have a functioning model of this watch coming as well and I could at least get some elements of my father's watch on it to feel some connection, but I'd really like to get what I have running if I could.
Any tips (other than "throw them out, they're not meant to be repaired")? Beratement for the lighter fluid is expected... Thanks! - Jay
Ex British Army, currently working as an Network Analyst.
Naturally I'm here I'm here to ask a question! After scouring the Web for an answer, I'm lost.
Recently I have become obsessed with purchasing old manual wind Timex from ebay, never more than £10-15, in an attempt to get them working.
This is my first time looking at a M22 and can't figure out how to remove the stem, and struggling to find solid documentation. Hopefully this is a simple task which someone can help?
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Hi Gary at all times unless testing the movement leave the battery out, whilst manipulating the stem into position . It will be best to use the stem provided with the module. some of the modules require you to put the stem into set position before removing as this keeps the clutch assembly and associated gears in place to enable an easy fit of the stem. Failure to do so causes the clutch to drop requiring re alignment before the new stem can be fitted. To do that you need to remove the calendar work to gain access to the keyless work. I have attached the tech sheet which covers this movement for you. good luck ETA 955.102, 955.112, 955.122, 955.132, 955.402, 955.412, 955.422, 955.432.pdf
I did end up seeing the difference between the top and bottom cap-jewels on the Incabloc. That was nice to learn. Thanks, JohnR725! Still, even after making sure the end-stones were in their proper places, the watch was making an odd audible tick intermittently. And it would stop. I took a second to look at the balance assembly and saw that the regulator arm was displaced a bit off of the top of the balance cock. I hadn't removed it for cleaning, so it wasn't me. No matter though. I situated it properly on balance cock and the watch is now running very strongly. I'll see how long it does so. It is no longer making the odd audible tick so I'm pretty confident that all will be well. Thanks all ! Premature victory dance. I should have known better. Little bugger stopped again. Rats!
Wow, thanks everyone, there's a whole lot of awesome information happening here! This went a whole lot deeper that I thought it would. I think a 3 jaw is still the most fitting for what I'm looking to do. jdrichard, great video! What you have there is exactly what I would be looking for and after looking into it those pieces are way more affordable than what I have been finding on ebay.
Hi John. Yes it's unfortunate but as you say, an opportunity. When I'm finished (it seems in about 7-10 years) I'll have a bench that I would not have access to with my means; not to mention shipping costs. I'll know what everything is made of and at the very least, it's ALL real wood, and high quality woods. Small touches like inexpensive hardwood 5mm plywood for drawer bottoms make it special to me. This particular ply has real wood grain that you don't generally see. watchweasol, thank you. I made a box joint jig. I'm using a radial arm (chop) saw to cut items, and a circular saw table for the jig/box joints. A router was on my list, but only for the skirting material on the sides and back of the work surface. I wound up not getting one, as there's no shortage of ornate moldings and trim that are already routed somewhat closely to what I envisioned. I might still get a router and put a radius on the drawer false-fronts, the work surface adjacent to me, and the 4 vertical edges. If it will enhance the utility and appearance, I'm all for it. One thing I need is a planer for the box joints. Either that or a belt sander to make quick work of it. This is an evolution, and I'm sure will change as I go along.
Hello, everyone Please could someone help me with a basic question as I live on a remote Uk island with no watchmakers. I am about to replace the ETA 955412 movement in my 1992Tagheuer 6000. (See picture) I have removed the Tag stem from the old broken movement and before removing the (temporary stem ?) and inserting my tag stem into new ETA I wanted to ensure I have the stem in the correct position and if battery should be in. I have read conflicting stem positions on line hence the question. Thanks for reading any help would be appreciated. Gary