Jump to content

1967 Vietnam Era Military Watch DTU-2A/P

jkjoller

By jkjoller
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

jkjoller New Member

jkjoller

Posted
Posted

Hello-

I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?

Also, does anyone know who made these?

IMG_3146.jpg

IMG_3147.jpg

Chopin Super WRT Addict

Chopin

Posted
Posted

I have a feeling that the watch might be a front loader. The glass comes out, then either the entire movement and dial or in some cases the hands come out, then the dial and then the movement.

Is the stem still inside ? That might hinder removing the movement.

watchabit Member

watchabit

Posted
Posted

Definitely a front loader. Crystal comes off first, stem comes out (always pull out to setting position before loosening set stem screw!) then movement comes out. 

It's a bulova movement, all parts available. 

 

jkjoller New Member

jkjoller

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I guess this watch is destined for the trash. I can't get the crystal to pop no matter what. I guess I could buy the Bergeon tool but on Esslinger (it cost $175.00). Don't really want to spend that for this one.

FYI, I tried Mark Lovicks recommendation of using a piece of plastic and a syringe. Still wont budge.

 

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

azkid Watch Enthusiast

azkid

Posted
Posted

I just fought a stubborn Timex front loader. Had to use the hot air rework station to heat the case. A hot air gun might work instead. I try to keep the heat in the 150-200C range to be sure the crystal doesn't melt.

You can get useable crystal lift tools without spending a fortune if that is an issue. Electro-vise works nicely (mine has stripped threads though) or for new I just got a cheap one and it works ok but can mark up the crystal. That's fine if you're replacing it.

Don't trash it! Worst case, set it aside for another time and try a different watch.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

ricardopalamino Distinguished Member

ricardopalamino

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, jkjoller said:

I guess this watch is destined for the trash. I can't get the crystal to pop no matter what. I guess I could buy the Bergeon tool but on Esslinger (it cost $175.00). Don't really want to spend that for this one.

FYI, I tried Mark Lovicks recommendation of using a piece of plastic and a syringe. Still wont budge.

 

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

I have used a bicycle pump and the needle from a turkey injector , [used to inject juice into a roasting turkey ] after putting a watch into a zip loc baggie and cutting a small hole at the stem tube to pop out the crystal .

BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
Hello-
I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?
Also, does anyone know who made these?
IMG_3146.jpg.041010f829aa2fa0d8b49041fe9aaea7.jpg
IMG_3147.jpg.b6df5213e336f894c8e29aa6c505f966.jpg

It’s a BENRUS with a Swiss movement, it’s a front loader you need a crystal lift , it’s a one piece case, google is your friend.

Cheers Kaz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted

It’s a BENRUS with a Swiss movement, it’s a front loader you need a crystal lift , it’s a one piece case, google is your friend.

Cheers Kaz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BENRUS cal. DR2F2 movement


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted

BENRUS cal. DR2F2 movement


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sometimes a thanks would be nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
watchabit Member

watchabit

Posted
Posted

Hey Kas, I stand corrected on the movement being a bulova. I have one pretty much just like it and I thought it was Bulova, and it may well be but I'll have to go look. 

Thanks,

Bill

  • 4 years later...
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
On 2/19/2018 at 10:07 PM, jkjoller said:

Hello-

I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?

Also, does anyone know who made these?

IMG_3146.jpg

IMG_3147.jpg

Hi Jk. I dont suppose you still have this watch, preferably in one piece. Thanks

Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted

Just for the record, these are a one piece case, the back does not come off. Split stem, and everything comes out through the front. I have just done one.

  • Thanks 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Marc said:

Just for the record, these are a one piece case, the back does not come off. Split stem, and everything comes out through the front. I have just done one.

Thanks for that  marc. How did you find working on it ? Easy , awkward , pain the the arse ?

Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

How did you find working on it ?

Pretty straight forward really. It came to me because the customer had had winding issues and the two piece stem had been pulled all the way out, so liberating the movement was just a matter of removing the crystal and it fell out. I don't know if they are all like this but the crown on this one had a very light line etched across it in the same orientation as the connector in the split stem so if the crown is still in situ all you have to do is align the line on the crown vertically and the movement will just fall out, no pulling with pincers to separate the stem.

The movement is an ETA 2372 which is a straight forward manual winder. This one had issues though. It had an incorrect spring for the hack which was what was causing the winding issues, the hack pin which contacts the balance wheel to stop it was bent over flat, I found a paper shim under the train wheel bridge without which the centre wheel bound up tight as a result of zero end shake, and it had the wrong mainspring fitted.

I couldn't get a replacement hack spring so I modified the closest replacement I could find so that it works. Straightening the pin was easy, as was adjusting the center wheel end shake with a jewel press so that I could do away with the shim. After that it was a straight forward service and fit the correct M/S.

It's a really nice watch actually and I wouldn't mind owning one myself.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, Marc said:

Pretty straight forward really. It came to me because the customer had had winding issues and the two piece stem had been pulled all the way out, so liberating the movement was just a matter of removing the crystal and it fell out. I don't know if they are all like this but the crown on this one had a very light line etched across it in the same orientation as the connector in the split stem so if the crown is still in situ all you have to do is align the line on the crown vertically and the movement will just fall out, no pulling with pincers to separate the stem.

The movement is an ETA 2372 which is a straight forward manual winder. This one had issues though. It had an incorrect spring for the hack which was what was causing the winding issues, the hack pin which contacts the balance wheel to stop it was bent over flat, I found a paper shim under the train wheel bridge without which the centre wheel bound up tight as a result of zero end shake, and it had the wrong mainspring fitted.

I couldn't get a replacement hack spring so I modified the closest replacement I could find so that it works. Straightening the pin was easy, as was adjusting the center wheel end shake with a jewel press so that I could do away with the shim. After that it was a straight forward service and fit the correct M/S.

It's a really nice watch actually and I wouldn't mind owning one myself.

That is really helpful thanks marc. A friend is searching for one, your information now gives me some option on choosing a working or restoration,  i really appreciate that 👍

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Titanium
      Lab Coats

      By Titanium · Posted

      Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Titanium
      Chinese tools debate

      By Titanium · Posted

      Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
    • caseback
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By caseback · Posted

      I found this string about this problem. I've not gone through it all, but I believe it also mentions making a spring. If not in this string, the info is online.
    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      No, I now realise it’s broken😥 ive looked for one online, but v. Expensive! im going to service as is, in the hope that  one turns up. Thank  you.
×
×
  • Create New...