Jump to content

Wyler Vetta High dome crystal


AlexeiJ1

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,
I was recently given a Wyler Vetta (ETA 32) watch with a stuffed movement and ratty case + crystal.
I've since serviced it and de-rusted it, waiting on some lume for the hands, cleaned up the case.

The man who gave it to me is dying from cancer, and it means a lot to me to fix it as he is like a grandfather to me (I'm only 25 in this hobby).


My dillemma is the crystal!

I've ordered a 32mm GHD crystal for $30 with postage and it turned out to be to small on the inner edge but too large on the outer.
Can anyone advise based off the measurements?

The inner diameter of the crystal was 30.6mm
Outer diameter is 31.85mm or so.

The inner bezel ring sits just on the dial, so that makes no difference.

The tension ring inner diameter is approximately 31.9
The crystal I got was from tiptopcrystals:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/G-S-XHD-EXTRA-HI-DOME-18-35-24-1mm-35-2mm-Round-Extra-High-Dome-Watch-Crystal/191801252753?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=490828457029&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

It was the 32mm GS XHD 30.1/2
Should I go for a slighly larger from same seller or ATG Sternkreuz from cousins? Can anyone suggest sizes.

I tried milling down the tip top crystal with a scalpel however ended up wrecking both he sent me.

4u1soTN.jpg

JyDzGuc.jpg

cKxn52v.jpg

ge0bs1h.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need the   proper wyler crtstal.     they may not be available.   try to find a watchmaker [or a forum member] who has the right one.     it can be chucked in a lathe to cut the edge inner dia. for the ring + clearence.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're not alone in having issues with fitting crystals. I guess that's why jewelers/watchmakers generally have a good assortment to chose from. I've had good luck most of the time by measuring many times to be sure, but I did recently buy the wrong size and type for a forties Perregaux. Going trial-and-error can be costly with $30 crystals. You might consider sending it to a specialty crystal replacement service if you can't find the Wyler product.

BTW: If you find the Wyler crystal, you might try to get two. :-)

Oh, and vinn3, that's interesting about the lathe use for adjusting the edge thickness. Would you use a bezel-chuck?  I ask because that happens to be one that I have. Thanks.

Edited by MrRoundel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The type of crystal you need is one that sits on top of the rehuat and is held in place by the bezel , like the Rolex Oyster .

The Sternkreuz crystal for this type of fitment is the ST or XS type , but unfortunately i can't see one in the sizes you mention.

Have you measured the external diameter of the rehuat and the inner diameter of the bezel ?

Edited by Andyclient
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎1‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 8:36 AM, MrRoundel said:

You're not alone in having issues with fitting crystals. I guess that's why jewelers/watchmakers generally have a good assortment to chose from. I've had good luck most of the time by measuring many times to be sure, but I did recently buy the wrong size and type for a forties Perregaux. Going trial-and-error can be costly with $30 crystals. You might consider sending it to a specialty crystal replacement service if you can't find the Wyler product.

BTW: If you find the Wyler crystal, you might try to get two. :-)

Oh, and vinn3, that's interesting about the lathe use for adjusting the edge thickness. Would you use a bezel-chuck?  I ask because that happens to be one that I have. Thanks.

I have a selection of aftermarket crystals - all high dome.  I have a plastic 4 jaw chuck to turn them.  Wyler is a problem,  also Ernest Borel.   these are among the VINTAGE  watches that need a factory crystal.  I think they all are in private hands.  vin

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎1‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 9:34 PM, MrRoundel said:

Gotcha. That's too bad. I hope that one turns up. Good luck.

And thanks for the clarification on the type of lathe tool you used for the crystal adjusting. I've never seen a plastic 4-jaw. Granted, I don't have much experience such things. Cheers.

its just like a steel 4 jaw,  but its a bit loose and flexible.  when I find it, ill post it.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, vinn3. Yes, I do know what a 4-jaw chuck is. I have a 3-jaw for a Unimat lathe that I've had for a while. I believe the 4-jaw is the same, but with 4 jaws that allow for more precise centering. I got the 3-jaw because it's a bit easier to use for the newbie.

A plastic 4-jaw does sound like a good way to go for adjusting crystal thickness at the seat. I'll keep my eye out for an image. Thanks again. Cheers.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, MrRoundel said:

Perhaps the 4-jaw is better than the 3-jaw because you can center non-round work as well?

 

right you are.   a new uniat lathe would come with both chucks.  its a 1/2 x 24 thread i believe.  a used unimat may have a drill chuck.   i am using a 6 " lathe.   it takes years to master the 4 jaw.   a 3 is darned fine if you are cutting larger stock.   the hunt goes on for my plastic 4 jaw.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

If anyone is interested, I found the original crystal 2 years ago on ebay. I found it by searching the dimensions and brand name "wyler".
I also got the dial refinished last week, looks a lot better.
The font is gone, but the memory is forever.
My good friend died shortly after I found the crystal, but I will keep the watch hopefully forever.

IMG_20200703_211410.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
    • If you're seeking advice for your "Harvard GSD" MArch II application essays, I'd recommend taking a thoughtful approach. Reflect deeply on your experiences, passions, and goals, and tailor your essays to showcase your unique perspective and potential contributions to the program. As for resources, I recently stumbled upon a gret platform for essays, and I must say, it's been quite helpful. Their selection of pre-written essays covers a wide range of topics, and their professional writers can also assist with custom essays tailored to your specific needs. Check out their offerings here: https://essaypro.com/essays-for-sale. Remember, authenticity is key in your application essays. Good luck!
    • For clarity and ease of testing, I redid that diagram, flipping the circuit to match the layout of the physical watch.
    • Hello, Thanks for the reply. The old jewel will get pushed out from the "outside" which is the dial side. The new jewel will get pressed in from the inside (shown below) which is the movement side, correct?     And the old jewel and spring will get pushed from the is the "outside" which is the dial side. Thank you very much for the information. I will take out the KIF spring and save it. Will update when the new jewel is in place!   Regards, Joe
    • It's a little circlip style retaining clip to keep the pinion from riding up out of position.
×
×
  • Create New...