Jump to content

Train Wheels not working.


WildBill

Recommended Posts

Hi, On assembling my 1950s watch... Having trouble with the train wheels, getting the bridge back in position, lining up the 3 wheels was very difficult, same with the pallet fork and the pallet complete,

but eventually I got it done. The watch now is fully assembled. "But not working" no power is,  getting to the train wheels. On unscrewing the train bridge, and prying it up the wheels worked fine and the watch worked. The third wheel top pivot jewel is sitting in it's location wonky....My Question is can I get a new Train Wheel bridge for this old watch, or get a new jewel fitted....I don't have the necessary

tool or skill to do this procedure...Bill.  

  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There always a chance I bent the pivot, it looks the jewel is not sitting squarely in it socket, but cant see how it's got dislodged

I think I will try and buy a scrapper on ebay and salvage the bridge...It's been a very enjoyable project, my very first attempt to

dismantle a watch  not without hiccups...I think I have the bug....Thanks Bill...  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Easiest way to check if the bridge is square is lay it on a mirror or piece of glass and see if you can see any bend in it that way, I doubt that you have bent the bridge during disassembly unless you were really hamfisted mate, there’s usually an answer to why it’s not sitting correctly, you just need to find it, keep trying with the train, I usually hold the movement between finger and thumb and then using an oiler manipulate each wheel in to their respective jewel, starting with the farthest away from the where the balance would sit and making my way to the escape wheel, the one you were having snags with.

in five years I’ve been doing this I’ve only had 2 moves where I’ve managed to drop the train bridge on and every pivot has lined up perfectly!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, WildBill said:

Hi, On assembling my 1950s watch... Having trouble with the train wheels, getting the bridge back in position, lining up the 3 wheels was very difficult, same with the pallet fork and the pallet complete,

but eventually I got it done. The watch now is fully assembled. "But not working" no power is,  getting to the train wheels. On unscrewing the train bridge, and prying it up the wheels worked fine and the watch worked. The third wheel top pivot jewel is sitting in it's location wonky....My Question is can I get a new Train Wheel bridge for this old watch, or get a new jewel fitted....I don't have the necessary

tool or skill to do this procedure...Bill.  

  

If the wheel is wonky then it is either bent, broken or the jewel has been dislodged. You will have to strip down again and inspect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Clockboy, I have found the same watch on ebay, I'm  going to bid for it, if I win the bid my problem will be solved.

thanks for your help...Do you know if there is anywhere I can get tranfers for the watch face, mine came off in the Ultrasonic

cleaner ?.... wont be doing that again....Bill 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, yeah have watched  Marks videos, it was Mark who gave me the inspiration to try it for myself, I have been very gentle with dismantling the watch, however when I assembled the train wheel bridge before screwing it down holding it with peg wood the wheels

turned freely, after I screw down they still moved freely, but not freely enough for the power source to turn them, so I must have got the third wheel wrong....hopefully I will win the bid on ebay for an identical watch.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, It's very rewarding when you see the watch you disassembled, cleaned, assembled, working again.

I had trouble with the 3rd Wheel and the Train wheel bridge...I found a identical replacement watch on ebay its on auction 3 days time.

I thought I would bid for it and use the 2 parts I need...then I remembered I brought 280g of watch part from Cousins, on looking i

found an identical bridge and 3rd wheel, they worked just fine..The watch never work...It's now running nicely. I need to oil the end

stones on the balance, but my oil pin puts on to much oil...need a very small oil pin but don't know what size to buy, do you think

0.75 will be small enough...Thanks for your help....Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, WildBill said:

I need to oil the end stones on the balance, but my oil pin puts on to much oil...need a very small oil pin but don't know what size to buy, do you think

The smaller size or the one above it, but it's not really about the size but the angle and time you make it touch the stone. You need to practice to get it right and will not get it right every time, just clean and re-do. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is not rare at all, the dial code and case code don't usually match.
    • Good question!! Anyone know of a substitute movement??!! 🤔🙏
    • Interesting issue that I just noticed: this Seiko 5actus Watch from 1977 has a calibre listing on the dial of 7019-8030R but on the case back it says 7019-8010!! Like a mis-printed coin, is this watch therefore worth a lot of money for its rarity?? 🤪😲🤔🤪
    • I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
×
×
  • Create New...