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Seiko partial service (not a question)

jdm

By jdm
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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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I'm seeing more and more of these, 6R15s almost new which exhibit a poor pattern or performance. This one, manuf. Apr. '14 was spinning 210 deg. face up, dropping to about 170 in other positions. What I do in these cases is let them wind down (to avoid removing the auto bridge), remove balance jewels, balance and pallet fork. Leave these parts 5 minutes in rectified gasoline (got in 1L bottle from an otherwise useless local supplier), applied 9010 to the stones, and put it back together. Takes less than 30 minutes. Picture taken before regulation.

P5210689.JPG.9c5284e56c26a5dd30bbb54955dd77ab.JPG

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jguitron WRT Addict

jguitron

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Very interesting. Thank you for sharing.

Im not sure of the specs for the modern seikos as all my experience is based on 6139 and 6138. The amplitude on those appears to be lower than expected in general, which is something most watchmakers now expect and tolerate.

What does jump in what you're saying is the significant drop to 170 in VPs. My young experience would have me worry about endshakes or pivot/jewel issues.

So, after cleaning and oiling the amps remained reasonable?

Thanks again for sharing.

Happy Sunday!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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So, after cleaning and oiling the amps remained reasonable?

Yes, as in picture.

 

pallet fork stones left unlubricated, or?

As mentioned: "remove balance jewels, balance and pallet fork. Applied 9010 to the (related) stones". Nothing else.

Edited by jdm
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anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

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Not too familiar with these watches as (1) I live mostly in 'banger' territory! (2) I dislike the 'square' anti-shock springs and (3)The finishing is unpleasant to my eye.

Nonetheless they seem to have good reviews and I'm surprised that they need attention at such a young age! Where are these made? In Singapore?

Anil

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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Not too familiar with these watches as (1) I live mostly in 'banger' territory!

Not sure what do you mean by that. 6R15 based Seiko cost easily $500 and their owners usually take good care of them.

 

2) I dislike the 'square' anti-shock springs

Actually the Seiko Diashock system is one of the best ever made, with possibly millions of units produced. Easy to work with and highly effective.

 

 (3)The finishing is unpleasant to my eye.

Finishing is simple but very nice. Cotes de Tokio on the rotor,  beveled balance cock, and few more details.

P5230692.thumb.JPG.859808d6b8e7abb11f13ebc0a367c5b3.JPG

 

 

Where are these made? In Singapore?

Made in Japan. The 6R15 is primarily a mov.t for JDM watches.

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Ishima Super WRT Addict

Ishima

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As mentioned: "remove balance jewels, balance and pallet fork. Applied 9010 to the (related) stones". Nothing else.

Sorry, still confused, you said you soaked the parts in a gasoline, so if the same is true of the pallet fork, then no oil will remain on that (and at least theoretically there wont be any on the escape wheel) and I've not heard of a pallet fork/escape wheel being lubricated with 9010. Can you clarify?

I'd be interested to know that it apparently runs well afterwards, in either case, since seiko service sheets typically instruct lubricating the exit and entrance stone. 

Edited by Ishima
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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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Sorry, still confused, you said you soaked the parts in a gasoline, so if the same is true of the pallet fork, then no oil will remain on that (and at least theoretically there wont be any on the escape wheel) and I've not heard of the pallet fork/escape wheel being lubricated with 9010. Can you clarify?

As asked and answered before already: I do lubricate the stones of the pallet fork with with a very small amount of 9010, which is what Seiko recommends, they call it "Moebius A". Attached service sheet.

6R15B.pdf

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anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

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Hi JDM,

by living in 'banger' territory I meant that I usually work with beat-up 6119s, 7006/9s, 6309 and sometimes 7s26/36. As you rightly said, these (6rxx and similar) watches are priced higher and the owners would send them to the Seiko agent for attention. It will take a while for them to get to the stage where I can get my grubby hands on them!

I dont have an issue with the diashock system but more with the square springs that started with the 7S26. The older 3 pointed ones I can get back in place with a rusty nail but the square ones are a pain, especially the smaller ones on the train wheels.

WRT to the finishing, well the pic you posted of the balance wheel cock says it all. Is it acceptable?..yes in the sense that it doesn't affect the efficiency of the watch which works extremely well. But I prefer the finishing of the older movements. Additionally the pressed in posts which Seiko started using in the 7s26 really bugs me.

It comes down to personal preference.

cheers

Anilv

 

 

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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I dont have an issue with the diashock system but more with the square springs that started with the 7S26. The older 3 pointed ones I can get back in place with a rusty nail but the square ones are a pain, especially the smaller ones on the train wheels.

I hear this complain a lot, but honestly I find these spring quite easy to deal with.

For the balance ones there is two methods, first the "tweezers only" one where you keep a thin finger of rodico over it and use the tweezers to put it in place. This methods require moderate manual skills, so I decided to document the other, which is even easier.

File a pegwood to the shape below. If you don't have pegwood, use a toothpick, brochette stick, or anything like that. The outer diameter must just go inside the jewel setting, then carve the inside with a 1mm drill bit.

P5240003.JPG.1f065d1148ee08e1531f2870108c1837.JPG

The rest is intuitive. Note how the spring is very off-center before applying the stick, but the soft wood easily takes care of that.

And for the small ones in the train t's even simpler, don't bother removing them, wash the plate, oil the related pivots, and enjoy the good results.

 

WRT to the finishing, well the pic you posted of the balance wheel cock says it all. Is it acceptable?..yes in the sense that it doesn't affect the efficiency of the watch which works extremely well. But I prefer the finishing of the older movements. Additionally the pressed in posts which Seiko started using in the 7s26 really bugs me.

I don't really think you can find a better finished mov.t at this price point, except possibly on some Seagull. I don't see anything wrong or ugly in the pressed posts.

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