Jump to content

Time Graph; What happend here??


Endeavor

Recommended Posts

Yesterday I adjusted the daily rate of my 25 year old Poljot 3133, but last night it ran a bit too slow. This morning I adjusted it slightly faster again but suddenly observed a weird behavior. Took the watch out the stand, "shook" it, but observed it again;

Sport-DD.PNG.e8a7cf4cc024129cc832e358df5a8f34.PNG

Since it was still a bit too slow, I adjusted it a bit more, which yields now the following picture (note; the last two dots out of line is me preparing to switch off).

Took the watch "for a walk", observed it in the Watch-O-Scope for several times now, but the line stays "flat" as in picture below ........

Sport-DD-2.PNG.89296b7c35f43e48648e8c63327f4091.PNG

Anybody any suggestions what happened here and what caused it?

 

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@szbalogh Very interesting! I got into the habit to wind the watch each morning, and before it was put on the W.O.S, it was just fully wound. The main-spring is the original Poljot. I had this watch already multiple times on the grapher and so far it ran like a dream, with no irregularities whatsoever.

Reading the above, and if this is indeed the cause, and if I don't see it again, I just leave things as they are. Perhaps it just got out of bed on the wrong side, on a Sunday morning ;)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's possible that there is contamination (oil) occasionally causing the coils to stick. 

But as Szbalogh points out, your amplitude is awfully high and you may be hitting the bankings as a result. When it's doing this, listen to the watch as it will start to sound like a horse galloping. It's potentially not very good for the escapement.....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The watch was just fully wound, till "end-stop" and then put on the timegrapher. As far as I remember, all the other measurement I've done preciously were later in the day. The watch has just had a service a few weeks ago. Perhaps I shouldn't wind it fully?

Also, since @szbalogh came swiftly with a plausible answer, I ordered the book "Practical Watch Repairing" by Donald de Carle. I figured, that after a year tinkering around, perhaps it was time to get a bit more in-depth know-how :)

 

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Endeavor said:

Interesting lesson learned ! Thank you all for your input :thumbsu:

BTW; for as long as this "Practical Watch Repairing" by Donald de Carle" eBay-link last, seems to be the latest (2008) print;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172520638123?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Have that book but i think mine is from 2013? Says inside that there was last reprinted 2013. 

1995,1996,1998,2000,2001,2002,2003(twice),2005,2006,2007,2008,2011,2013 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You never want to wind the watch up tight and put it on a timing machine. The factories have recommendations Such as ETA has this "All check are made without the calendar in function and chrono not coupled. The check has to be done at full winding, referred to as 0 h, after 1 to 3 hours running." . Omega uses "0h Measures to be made between 30 and 90 minutes after fully winding.".

If you run a time plot of the watch fully wound up tight you will see variation for the watch to stabilize. Modern watch in nice condition seems to stabilize really fast personally I usually wait 30 minutes seems to be fine for timing.

Then if you're timing in various positions you also should allow a little bit a settling time for this I use what Omega recommends for vintage pieces 30 seconds between positions. I do notice for non-vintage Omega watches anywhere from 15 seconds to one minute but most of them at 30 seconds.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@JohnR725 That seems to be some nice guidelines. Another reason I fully wound the watch, was to have a spring-tension reference point. Obviously I didn't expect this behavior to happen. To let it run a certain amount of time, one, two or three hours after being fully wound makes sense and still provides a spring-tension reference point.

Thanks for the tip ! :thumbsu:

@rogart63 I googled the ISBN number and the information was a bit unclear; 2008 it said. It may well be that the book in the link is a later re-print, but it doesn't say. I have to wait until I receive it to be sure ......

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Endeavor said:

@JohnR725 That seems to be some nice guidelines. Another reason I fully wound the watch, was to have a spring-tension reference point. Obviously I didn't expect this behavior to happen. To let it run a certain amount of time, one, two or three hours after being fully wound makes sense and still provides a spring-tension reference point.

Thanks for the tip ! :thumbsu:

@rogart63 I googled the ISBN number and the information was a bit unclear; 2008 it said. It may well be that the book in the link is a later re-print, but it doesn't say. I have to wait until I receive it to be sure ......

Probably is the same text inside? Mine is not the soft back version as this is? Don't now what is called? Has a hardback and a paper outside to protect it? 

Looks like there is a lot of different versions out there? 

This is how mine looks. 58ab14c48132c_62224practicalwatchrepairing.jpg.d671c51c724dc8bf29f37483913f7d22.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • No matter what I did, I could not get the amplitude more than 240 deg. At least there is 0.2 beat error and minus 1-2 s/d.  So, probably not the happy end I would have hoped for, but still I think the watch turned out quite nice. You be the judge of that. Thank you everyone for your help!  
    • its used to lengthen or shorten the suspension spring from the front f the clock dial, this in turn will give regulation to the clock. Try inserting a pocket watch key or even better the double ended key for the clock into the small aperture on the dial at the top and turning it, you will see the suspension block either raise or lower. If it raises the clock will run faster if it lowers the clock will run slower
    • Grateful for info regarding the nature & function of the horizontal cog and the unit it's on top of in the picture. It meshes with a vertical cog (enclosed in the unit) on the arbour which is supported at its other end by the back plate of the dial unit to which it is not quite perpendicular...
    • does anyone knows what type of battery this digital Watch takes?  
    • Hello good watch folk ,I  just fancied a light hearted discussion after my head was starting to spin over Epilame 😅. Specifically I'm meaning the sale of vintage watches, say nothing past the 1980s market. The stuff we see on ebay and other similar sites and found at carboots, curio shops etc. And are  we thinking its reaching a peak volume ?  Younger generations clearing out passed parents and grandparents possessions.  The younger folk are not as sentimental as the old fogies ( I'm now nearly at an age that i used to think was old fogie age ). When might it have started ?  i often wish i discovered the hobby much much sooner when selling your grandfathers pocket watch at a boot sale for a few quid was just a way to offload some tat. And when might it slow down. Thoughts anyone ?
×
×
  • Create New...