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Balance staff replacement without staking set??


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The first time I staked in a balance staff, when I spread the rivet, I pounded too hard and distorted the arms of the balance. I then had to true the balance with truing calipers. I did it without issue and restored the watch. The last one I did was a Hamilton staff that was a friction fit. I tapped out the old one with my Staking tool and tapped in the new one. I first thought that this was a riveted staff but there was not enough metal to spread after I staked in the balance. I still took a domed stake and tapped what I thought could be the rivet...just in case. It all worked out in the end. So, buy a Staking set from Uncle Larry up here in Canada asap


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There are still good metals available to make watch staffs. Drill rod is commonly  available in water hardening (W1), oil hardening (O1) and air hardening (W1, S7) varieties. When hardened and tempered back to a good spring hardness the pivots should have the proper strength and hardness characteristics to function properly.  Watch staffs were traditionally  made from water hardening steels but when watch staffs were first produced, there weren't a large variety of steels available. As time progressed different minerals were added to the mix to achieve different characteristics. These characteristics ranged from hardness, toughness, resistance to corrosion, dimensional deformation and so on. S7 will produce a pivot that will be the least likely to break and can be brought up to a sufficient (Rc46) spring hardness  Other metals such as A2, O1 and W1 can be brought up to a higher (Rc65) hardness but do not have the resistance to shock that S7 has.

david. 

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There are still good metals available to make watch staffs. Drill rod is commonly  available in water hardening (W1), oil hardening (O1) and air hardening (W1, S7) varieties. When hardened and tempered back to a good spring hardness the pivots should have the proper strength and hardness characteristics to function properly.  Watch staffs were traditionally  made from water hardening steels but when watch staffs were first produced, there weren't a large variety of steels available. As time progressed different minerals were added to the mix to achieve different characteristics. These characteristics ranged from hardness, toughness, resistance to corrosion, dimensional deformation and so on. S7 will produce a pivot that will be the least likely to break and can be brought up to a sufficient (Rc46) spring hardness  Other metals such as A2, O1 and W1 can be brought up to a higher (Rc65) hardness but do not have the resistance to shock that S7 has.
david. 

YE know too much

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    • I see Mark has sorted this one out. 
    • We need to identify the movement to help you, but the oldest of these Rolco watches use Aegler-Rebberg movements that lack a calibre number and are very difficult to identify. You may end up having to make or modify a stem to fit . Post pictures of both sides of the movement when you have it and the size of the movement and hopefully it’s one that has a calibre number.  Gruen used a lot of the same Aegler movements at the time and it’s worth comparing your movement with those if you can’t find it labeled as an Aegler or Rolex/Rolco calibre. Best Regards, Mark  
    • Onlly a pro's eye would notice that OH, you've still got it old fella 🙂
    • The triple lobed spring, as you suggest needs to be rotated to remove it or replace it. Suitably shaped pegwood should suffice, but tools (shaped as you describe) for the purpose also exist.  If you have an assorted of replacement springs, a trilobe style KIF spring of the right size might fit.  The other spring securing the jewel also needs rotating. There is a slight opening in the setting at about the 5 o’clock position in your photo and one side of the spring should be able to be removed  there when rotated into position.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • As an update, it transpired the setting on the balance side, with the jewel had one flat end and one curved. When I rotated it enough it popped out. The chaton was entirely conical and a tricky customer but once lubricated and dropped back in I put the flat edge in first and poked it in with the peg wood tool mentioned above (I made it with flattening off the end then sizing with a pencil sharpener before poking a hole in the end) then rotated and it went in well.    For the other side, magnet searching for the spring has been fruitless.    thanks for the link to the other thread
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