Jump to content

Seiko 6139B lower bushing is very worn.


rogart63

Recommended Posts

Tried  to put some marks on the sides to make the hole smaller. But failed that i don't now where i am going. New mainpale wyth better bushing. There is a hole directly into the plate . So it's not easy just replace. What would i have to use to drill it out and replace it with a ruby jewel. If i can.  If i can find a jewel i would like to try. 

Movement is a 21 jewels JDM version. Why not 23 or 24 and the could hav jeweled that to. 

No i did buy a nice one from speedtimerkollektion. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which hole is it? I noticed at work none of the other watchmakers want to touch old Seiko's because so many of the holes wear out and there's no replacement parts.

So if you had access to a lathe mounting the plate, boring out the hole and putting in a bushing or a jewel depending upon what you can get to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must have been drunk :startle:. What a language i used? Well this is my problem? Have a 6138B where the bushing in the plate is very worn. Probably because one of the screws in the trainwheel bridge was gone. Found it inside the movement. The screw that was closest to the mainspring barrel .Tried as i said to  put a few punches with a staking tool next to the hole. But that wasn't very nice. And didn't work either. A jewel would be great? But have't seen one i any Seiko. 

DSC07363.JPGDSC07362.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh dear the damage is done. If you can’t get a bottom replacement plate I think your only answer is to re-bush it ether a jewel or a brass bush a jewel would be the best.

For future reference keep hammers well away from watch work. :D 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Which hole is it? I noticed at work none of the other watchmakers want to touch old Seiko's because so many of the holes wear out and there's no replacement parts.

Actually is not unheard to jewel Seiko holes. I think is has been mentioned here by Lawson and some other. If a watchmaker is unable to do that he's not very different from my own modest level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Oh dear the damage is done. If you can’t get a bottom replacement plate I think your only answer is to re-bush it ether a jewel or a brass bush a jewel would be the best.

 

For future reference keep hammers well away from watch work. :D 

Bought a replacement from speedtimerkollektion. Wasn't the easiest to find as the movement is the 21 jewels JDM model. 

 

 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

That's nice to know. So all is well.

Hope so? I  changed the bushing in the trainwheel bridge also. Found one on a 6119B movement. So i hope the problem is solved  and i can start putting the watch back together when i get the plate. 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • The fact that the seconds runner starts running smoothly when you engage the chrono seconds makes me think the clutch is out of adjustment. That's a guess because I can't seem to find out too much about the chronograph module Breitling used on this model. On other Navitimers they used the Valjoux 7750 which had the running seconds on the left where the hand was mounted on an extended pivot on the fourth wheel. It looks to me that whatever pinion is driving that wheel is skipping teeth. Given that Breitling (et al) is not forthcoming with manuals or parts, I would send it back and ask for expedited service. They should be sufficiently embarrassed to do that for you at least.
    • Looks like someone forced in a screw that was bigger than the hole.  You would probably need to drill it out with a tungsten carbide rod sharpened at the tip to look like a spade drill. I'll see if I can find a video on how to make one. Start with a 0.5mm rod, then work your way up in 0.1mm increments until the walls of the hole weaken the screw enough to break it up.  This is a very time consuming, slow process. You'll need to centre the hole properly and not deviate. WD40 helps. The other option is to abandon the hole and use a dial dot. As much as I hate dial dots, this might be the safest option for a beginner.  Ok, found it.  
    • For those who are, curious I broke out the macro lens and took a few shots.  I'm attaching four of them: Image 1 is from the watchmaker's side and generally shows the problem area. Image 2 is a detail view of the offending dial foot hole (called out with the green circle), the tip of the offending screw (orange arrow) and the blue line indicates the approximate position of what's left of the head of the screw (determined by using an oiler as a feeler gauge to transfer that measurement to the visible portion of the plate.) Image 3 is looking down the screw hole you can see the head of the broken screw at the bottom. Image 4 is the same, but with less contrast to give a better appreciation of the condition of that end of the screw. I can almost convince myself that I can see the remains of the screw slot in the head, but I have to use alot of imagination in that exercise. Heard and understood.  There does appear to be a steel locating pin that can be seen in the lower, right center of Image 1 (right "above" the oval shaped slot that is to the left of where the pinion/clutch parts of the keyless works nestle into the plate.)  As I don't see a way to remove that I'd have to keep it out of the solution and have even contemplated dropping a little paraffin on it to give it a "rain coat" of sorts.  As I missed that before I did the closeup photos, I feel that I'm going to be looking at this plate in much greater detail to see if there anything else I might have missed. The screw assortments seem like a good acquisition.  The eBay seller who has the donor movements I was looking at never replied so I may just take a chance and get one of those as well a screw assortment.  They do seem like they'd be handy.  I have to confess that the idea of fabricating the needed screws appears to some deep part of my soul, I also have to confess that I do not yet have either the equipment, or the skill to use it.  Perhaps one day, but that day has not arrived (and I have alot of pricey bits and bobs that I will likely need to get along the way.) I thought about this, but the dial foot screw doesn't seem to be wide enough to get the thing out if I could advance it into the hole.  I suppose that I could try and take it out in pieces (advance it as far as it will go, get in there with some sort of saw, take a piece off, walk it forward again, take another piece, etc) but that seems like alot of risk to the main plate. I need to examine the other screw to ensure it doesn't have a shoulder or something that would prevent me from doing something like that.  However, all that said, I've been unable to get the thing to move at all. In general, this whole piece feels like someone had it before me, did a bad job of working on it and ultimately just bunged it all back together in a haphazard way and passed it on to be someone else's problem.
×
×
  • Create New...