Omega 1021 amplitude too low

[Fstop2100a]

How can I increase amplitude. It's only 180 unless I wind it all the way up and then only 210-240. Beat rate is spot on at lift 52

[Fstop2100a]

I'm thinking I need to move the first lever which is the one most say not to move in images? The watch keeps almost perfect time in two positions and is fast by 20 seconds in two others. When fully wound wearing it gains 4 seconds a day. After a couple of days not fully wound it looses 20 seconds a day. Wind it back up and it's back to gaining 5 seconds. My guess is the low amplitude half wound is causing these fluctuation? But I'm new to this so any advise is good. Not sure buying this acer timer was such a good idea as it only tells me what it's doing on the stand not on my wrist?

[Alastair]

Prolly needs a good service...

Maybe a new mainspring as well, depending on condition/age...

Edited August 17, 2016 by Alastair

[clockboy]

Agree with Alastair. If the watch is in beat & clean then a new mainspring might improve it,s consistency.  However being an auto the spring should always be fully wound (while on the wrist) so I would say a service is required. 

[Marc]

There is a good chance that the erratic rate is due to the low amplitude. The low amplitude is most likely due to insufficient power reaching the escapement  (but could be issues with the balance), and this cannot be corrected by adjusting either the regulator or the beat.

Lack of power at the escapement can have many causes, from a worn out or damaged main spring, to dried oil, to damaged or worn pivots, or any combination of issues. As Alastair says, your starting point is a service. Strip it down and clean everything. Inspect everything for wear and damage. Replace the main spring if needed, then reassemble, testing the freedom of the train as you go.

Once it is back together with a good main spring and clean pivots with fresh oils, the chances are that the amplitude will go up and the rate will be more consistent. That's the point at which you can fine tune the balance rate and beat.

Good luck, and enjoy. 

 

 

[jdm]

20 hours ago, Fstop2100a said:

. Not sure buying this acer timer was such a good idea as it only tells me what it's doing on the stand not on my wrist

Wrist is not different than the stand. You need an instrument to see what's going on.If you're not ready for the physical one try an app for phone or tablet.

[JohnR725]

On 8/17/2016 at 1:48 PM, Fstop2100a said:

But I'm new to this so any advise is good.

As your new to this how about we take a different approach?

So first in order for us to help you we need more information. Timing machine is wonderful for doing diagnostics but we still need additional information such as when was the watch last serviced?

The reason why we need to know when it was last serviced Is it changes what were seeing on the timing machine. For instance if the watch hasn't been serviced in a very long time the timing machine is confirming with low amplitude that it hasn't been serviced. Then the timing variations across an indication of a watch that need servicing possibly. If the watch was just serviced it is telling us you're having a problem.

Then from the original question it looks like you're trying to do precision timing? In other words you want this watch to keep time within a few seconds a day in all positions which it can't do unless it's been serviced in the last couple of years. Then if you're going to do precision timing with the timing machine Omega has a procedure. So on watches like this the procedure is to time in six positions usually measuring rate and amplitude then 24 hours later doing it again based on that you can make a prediction of how your watche is going to do on your wrist.

Then even if the timing machine says the watches going to be perfect in all positions directions amplitudes etc. it may still keep crappy time on your wrist if whatever you're comparing to keeps worst time in your watch. That it's very important to only use one reference not multiple of references because more than likely the references won't be in sync with each other.

So it understand a little more precision timing two PDFs. Delta is a big thing for watch companies not just for the rate you want to see everything consistent in all positions and then preferably 24 hours later it should be really really close. So I've attached a couple of PDFs to get you started on precision timing but all of this is a total waste of time if the watch hasn't properly been serviced recently. A gets harder and harder to do precision timekeeping as the lubrication's breakdown and if they gum up it's going to be impossible.

http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/HT_JUNE_TomsTips.pdf

http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Calculation of the values X-D-DVH-Di-Im-N.pdf

[Fstop2100a]

Thanks for such a well thought out response. The watch was just serviced. I wanted to adjust the rate slightly. What I've come to find out is the watch is not winding well on my wrist. Could be a bad bearing or jewel. It actually stopped last night. Winds ok on a winding machine. So when wound up amplitude is ok 235-280 depending on position. Beat is dead on with lift at 52. It's running 7 seconds fast per 24 hrs. The timing machine says it was running 14 fast. So I've now set it to run + 5 seconds and will put it on winding machine fully wound.

SO THE ISSUE WAS NOT AMPLITUDE BUT THE FACT AS IT UNWINDS IT LOST POWER AND AMPLITUDE . Guess once I get it running right I'll be hand winding it each day to insure it has full power.