Jump to content

Watchmaker worktop with folding leaves

systeman

By systeman
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

systeman WRT Addict

systeman

Posted
Posted

I have limited work space at home, so I decided to design and make a small watchmaker worktop with folding side panels so the height can be increased when required.

Here is my watchmaker prototype worktop and already I have an idea to improve it.

The work top started out with a 62cm x 42cm offcut of 18mm mdf.

To one side, using a vinyl spray adhesive, I stuck a piece of 5 ply drawing board cover of the self-seal type. I then used hockey stick profile moulding to bead around the edges. The beading was hidden-nailed and glued in place, then three coats of varnish applied. Three coats of varnish was also applied to the underside to seal the mdf. Photo 1.

I also made 2 hinged side leaves, 42 cm x suitable height.Like the top, this was beaded all round but with a rounded profile moulding.Then I applied three coats of varnish. Photo 2.

A card template was used to decide on the arm rest positions for the worktop. Photo 3.

I then removed the top section of the hockey stick beading. Photos 4 and 5.

Aluminium angle was used to form a front edge for the arm rest positions, these were coutersunk screwed into place. The position of the arm rest mounting holes were decided, marked out drilled. Photos 6 and 7.

To attach the leaves to the top I used 4x 90 degree locking hinges. I removed the locking mechanism for the rear hinges.

To attach the hinges I marked out suitable bolt hole positions, then drilled out the mdf to accomodate flush screw-in bolt inserts. The inserts, together with bolts, are better than using ordinary wood screws. Photo 8.

For the arm rests I salvaged some leather from an old sofa someone had disposed of.

Using the carboard template, I marked out on a piece of 18 gauge aluminium sheet the outline of each arm rest shape and corresponding mounting bolt hole positions. Two of these were made for each side together with the same shape in hardboard for gluing the leather to. The hardboard was then sandwiched between the aluminium profiles and "G" clamped together. Holes corresponding with the worktop bolt holes were then drilled through. This was replicated for each arm rest.

For each arm rest, one aluminium plate was used as a base plate. The other I drilled out, countersunk, and fitted with 4 x M5 brass rivet nuts with the nut part to the uppermost of the plate. Two edges of each plate were reduced in size to accomodate the aluminium angle on the worktop.

I also drilled out the plates and hardboard for 4mm x 12mm pop rivets as can be seen in the image.

30mm firm foam was then glued to the top of each arm rest top plate covering the rivet nuts. The hardboard profiles were then glued to the the other side whilst aligning the mounting and pop rivet holes.

The leather was formed and sewn into shape using the card template for each arm rest, allowing for the depth of the foam and for gluing to the underside of the hardboard. The aluminium base plates were then pop riveted into place to aid clamping the top plate, hardboard, leather and base plate together, as can be seen in the arm rest. Photos 11,12 and 13.

The finished watchmaker work top in lowered and raised positions. The rest of the photos.

top_1.JPG

hinged_side leaf.JPG

top_5.JPG

top_6.JPG

top_7.JPG

top_8.JPG

top_9.JPG

top_2.JPG

top_3.JPG

top_4.JPG

arm_rest_1.JPG

arm_rest_2.JPG

arm_rest_3.JPG

worktop_assembled_1.JPG

worktopassembled_4.JPG

Worktop_raised.JPG

The height of the leaves was determined by the existing bench or table top height.

worktop_addembled_2.JPG

worktop_assembled_3.JPG

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites
systeman WRT Addict

systeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My improvements would be to use 18mm plywood or HDF because they're better to work with than MDF for the top and side panels. Also, because the raised height currently is based on my existing table top height, some additional adjustable height can be added. If I decide to add futher height adjustment, I'll post some more images.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      I see what you mean. I must admit I’m not entirely comfortable with that but I can’t see a better method than what you suggest. I’d like to see something like this mirror with a short spike: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mirror-for-observing-movements Place it on, push the spike on the post with one hand and release the stem with the other hand. Minor problem, it doesn’t exist.
    • Michael1962
      Leaving the forum for a while.

      By Michael1962 · Posted

      Hope you mum keeps on mending. I was adamant that I was going to get myself going after my stroke. I was only 52. I still have a lot of life left to live. Some people give up. Some people don't let it beat them. Your mum sounds like one of the winners. 👍
    • Michael1962
      I'm going to be setting up a decent little workshop here at home.

      By Michael1962 · Posted

      Moved in. Now working out the best place to have things so moving around the room makes sense. The wooden movement testing rig may end up being suspended from the roof with some pulleys and ropes that I salvaged from some alfresco blinds that we replaced. I always seem to salvage things from things we scrap thinking, "I have an idea what I can use these for." I hope I'm not the only one that does that. My wife hates me for it. "What are you going to do with all this crap?" Anyway, here you go. If anyone has suggestions for workflow around a room, speak up. All Ideas are appreciated. The bench on wheels will carry either a laptop or my Samsung table for using with the little camera that is on the tripod for photos while dismantling etc. The small bar fridge in the corners going to have water etc in it and I might move the coffee maker from the kitchen out there as I am the only one that uses it. I want to get an ultrasonic cleaner so I may set up some sort of cleaning rig in front of the glass of the sliding door. Where the grandmother clock is currently standing. I'm hoping that I will be able to transition my working area, which is the table that the stool is sitting in front of, fairly easily between clocks and watches. I'll be doing my best to make sure that tools for each are separatedwhen stored. Logistics. I'll have a bit of wall space for being able to hang clocks if I find some that I wish to keep or hopefully at some time to be able to hang customer clocks for monitoring after servicing/repairs. The clock on the left in the blue pillow slip and the grandmother clock are earmarked for  Jarryd and his wife, Sara. He helped me move the benches in today. And then went on to tell me that ticking clocks drive him nuts. Who doesn't like the rhythmic ticking of a clock? I have a green pad for adding to the bench for a working surface. It is not a cutting mat or one of the Bergeon mats. It is actually a green desk writing mat. Was really cheap and will do exactly what I want, I think. I also have to get the sparkies back that put our new stove in to put some power points on the walls behind the benches. Hopefully this is all going to go well. I'm excited about it. It'll beat having to live out in the garage doing it. The other thing I have to do is cut a circle or square of plastic to go over the bouncing watch or clock part black hole in the middle of the floor. I would pretty much guarantee that anything that sproings off the bench would end up going straight down that drain. 😄      I think I have been on this forum about 4 years and still yet to really strike a blow. That's a bit sad isn't it. Signed up to Mark's watch course and have yet to buy the movement for working on. Have most of the tools I think I will need so now all just a matter of will.   I have to make a crank handle for my Joe Collins spring winder as well and some spring retaining tubes as I can't find where I can buy them. I will be salvaging (here I go again) the aluminium tubing from my old hang glider which I have to scrap as I can't fly anymore and it is too old to sell. All the aluminium tubing is aircraft grade so I am hoping it will be suitable for the winder. I have also been making a bushing tool and I have just worked out that it will work well with my Dremel stand. So another thing that I can turn into a working tool. Don't know if you guys have ever seen the ad about the guy that buys himself a new 4WD and the son says "We're going to need a bigger boat." So Liz is looking at all the stuff we have to get rid of and says "We're going to need a bigger bin." Really difficult to work out how big a Dempster bin we need. Sigh.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • HectorLooi
      Battery

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
×
×
  • Create New...