Jump to content

Starting Watch Repair/servicing.


Recommended Posts

You just need to test yourself and develop manual skills. So anything free or below $5 a piece is OK. There are new Chinese watches going for this price. You can also buy lots of bare Seiko movements for $10 on ebay.

Whats the best movement to start training?

Send from outer space

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whats the best movement to start training?

Any that can you bin without regret as mentioned before. Once you are able to take something apart and put in back in same or better conditions from what it was before you can think about moving on. Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any that can you bin without regret as mentioned before. Once you are able to take something apart and put in back in same or better conditions from what it was before you can think about moving on.

because someone in a previous thread talked about a pocket watch. I thought it would be easiest to start with.

But youre right any cheap of free movement/watch Will do.

Send from outer space

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is said that one should start large with large antique movements. I don't agree, better that you get real right away with common men wristwatches, mech. or quarts indifferently. Only with these you can tell if you like the hobby without wasting too much time and money.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is said that one should start large with large antique movements. I don't agree, better that you get real right away with common men wristwatches, mech. or quarts indifferently. Only with these you can tell if you like the hobby without wasting too much time and money.

Fair enough.

Send from outer space

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a learning curve that requires time and money...nothing is free and/or comes overnight! Just remember that any trade/skill needs its dues! Even for a hobby...

 

Find a CURRENT pocket watch movement still ticking. It is standard to recommend/use an ETA 6498 or its original version in UNITAS, available for about $50. Then you can move on to smaller watches. Seiko's 7S26 and family make good starting watches too but they are smaller: 16 vs. 11 1/2 lignes respectively. Also Asian/Japanese watches are not always the Swiss type so expect to deal with a new concept...in principle it is all the same, in design there are plenty of differences.

 

Pitfalls/techniques that need to be solved/addressed immediately while learning are: tweezers manipulation/skills, gentle touch, parts management and manipulation, hairspring skills, mainspring skills and definitely all sort of springs manipulation, jewel care and handling, assembly and disassembly techniques, cleaning techniques, lubrication techniques...there is simply a lot to learn (those are just the basics) and plenty of room for improvement...and don't forget your tools maintenance either or the case parts and restoration if you are casing or working also with a "second hand" watch. Those parts include the dial, hands, bezels, gaskets, etc, just to name a few. The list goes on and on for everything movement/watch learning curve.

 

IMHO

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck with your enterprise.

 

I think you will have to spend a lot of time learning about watches  and becoming proficient before you inflict yourself on an unsuspecting customer. I have been doing it as a hobby now for just on a year, mainly I have specialized in Seiko's, Mainly because there are lots of beat up watches to be had cheap, so far I have bought and restored about 50 junk watches to running condition, parts are not so much a problem to me as I buy donor movements for spares.

 

Working on a watch for a customer would be a different kettle of fish as you will have to guarantee your work and stand behind your repairs so every watch must leave you in as near new condition as possible and sourcing parts is not always easy or inexpensive.

 

The outlay in tools and equipment is also quite considerable, I have spent over $2000 so far and only have what I consider basic tools.

 

So I would suggest you start as a hobbyist and gain experience and see where that takes you, I am not being negative or trying to put you off the idea but there is a lot to take into account, and customers can be difficult cattle.

 

Max

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont get me wrong max. Im not starting a bussines i just want to repair and service my own watches. Maybe of a friend if he dares and im confident that i can do it. I know watchmaking is a skill you dont master over a Day.

But thanks for your clear explanation.

Send from outer space

Edited by mr104x
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to start watch repairing start with a large pocket watch most of the movement will be very like a manual wrist watch, you will be able to get the basic work of the construction, taking it apart and putting it back and finding what goes where.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to start watch repairing start with a large pocket watch most of the movement will be very like a manual wrist watch, you will be able to get the basic work of the construction, taking it apart and putting it back and finding what goes where.

Any suggestions what kind of a pocketwatch?

Maybe some names of watches i can look for?

Send from outer space

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Find a CURRENT pocket watch movement still ticking. It is standard to recommend/use an ETA 6498 or its original version in UNITAS, available for about $50. Then you can move on to smaller watches. Seiko's 7S26 and family make good starting watches too but they are smaller: 16 vs. 11 1/2 lignes respectively. Also Asian/Japanese watches are not always the Swiss type so expect to deal with a new concept...in principle it is all the same, in design there are plenty of differences.

The above paragraph contains excellent advice from Bob. He mentions "current pocket watch", this is because some of the antique ones bear little resemblance to a modern wristwatches that you intend servicing. A modern pocket watch should have a similar movement to a modern wristwatch and would be a good choice if you go that route.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really listen to what these guys are telling you. They know their business. I've dabbled with watches for 2 or 3 years and don't even want to go into the horror stories of my the early days. I must of spent well over a £1000 on the basic tools and am still collecting and constantly learning but good luck!

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm happy to have spent much less than what is mentioned here and still be able to play break and fix at will. The most expensive item I've bought is the timegrapher at $150. I'm going to order a demagnetizer for $33 tonight. I think it's an affordable hobby as long one doesn't say lathe or Bergeon full-set this and that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nice interesting diver Razz, i have a sheffield dress watch, different movement altogether. Could be a wrong motion works part, how does the setting feel before fitting the cannon pinion, clutch and intermediate wheel meshing ok ?  The less traditional setting design could be suspect, the second wheel has a slip clutch assembly, that most likely needs looking at. LA is 42 ° Razz Tbh i  much prefer to call the complete unit the lever, then use the seperate names for all of its components. Such as guard pin, fork, fork horns, fork slot, lever arm, pallets , pallet arms, pallet slot, pallet stones. I suppose pallet fork is the combination of the two opposite ends that make up the lever, its also called the anchor which is descriptive of its appearance.  Its a pretty basic 1930s  swiss lever movement H and yes Nev was meaning the pallet fork.
    • The pallet fork should really be called a lever, English lever, Swiss lever etc but most people including myself call it a pallet fork.
    • Seiko have case numbers, I  can't see it on your photos.  If you can find that we can look for a genuine crown.  If not, you need to measure the diameter of the stem, the distance between the lugs and the depth of the lugs.  The case number will be something like this. 
    • I'm not sure what kind of movement this is, but I'm curious to know if you're using the word "lever" as a synonym for "pallet fork"?
    • Actually kind of rough, maybe munute wheel pinion problems? Is the 2.73mm canion oinion which seems rarer and not availble on Cousins UK. The seconds hand works and suprising nice amplitude but don't know the lift angle and BE this one says 17 j but is a pin pallet as well. Cap jewels on the escape and drive train pivots. Interestingly in has both water proof and shock resistant on the caseback and dial. Puts this around 1969 or '70? The double bezel that works independently is cool has the pi symbol on each. Wonder if it can be used like a slide rule ir something...
×
×
  • Create New...