Two New Projects

[Chainstay]

Two of the watches donated to me by family members are actually working, but I think they need servicing.

 

One is a small ladies watch, a Certina:

 

The other is another ladies watch, maybe originally a pocket watch due to the position of the crown. It has a small button at 1 0'clock which activates hands setting. It has a double-hinged case back as well as a hinged front. The adjustment mechanism for the hairspring seems to be way out of position:

 

As I'm a complete novice in the art of servicing watches I ask you:

Is it too ambitious a project?

Are there specific matters I should be aware of (apart from not loosing parts or breaking Incablock-springs...)?

Is the Certina especially difficult because of its size?

Do I need special tools?

 

I have another more straightforward watch to service first, a lovely little mens watch which I hope to present to you when its finished.

 

Looking forward to your wise replies.

 

Pauli

[bobm12]

Hi Pauli,

 

I would start on big movements first but if you feel confident tackling a small ladies one, go ahead! Now that certina doesn't have incabloc protection. As a matter of fact it was probably made before incabloc became main stream. So be careful not to drop it, it is not shock protected! Being that small, pivots among other delicate parts should be special care items...specially when lifting/setting down bridges. Also, being such small size, the proper oil should be an issue. Try to get the service data if possible.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[ramrod]

hand winders are simple enough that the size might not be too big a factor. larger is always better if starting out, but if you do, take a bunch of photos......and no coffee.

[ausimax]

Start with something that has no value to you, grab an old Timex with a pin/lever movement, Should be able to pick one up for a couple of bucks or at the dump. :D

They look cheap and simple but they can be a real **BLEEP** to get back together, after them a Seiko or Swiss seems easy, be assured you will wreck at least 1 watch whilst you are learning and it is less stressful if it isn't your grail.

 

Max

[Chainstay]

Your comments are appreciated.

 

Luckily I have two larger watches with Swiss movements (small second hand) I can practice on, and I think I will look for something cheap on ebay as suggested.

The process of working with watches is for me the most important thing right now on my learning curve but of course the result counts as well - It would be nice if the watch works afterwards  :lolu: 

 

One of the two displayed watches has a cylinder escapement I think, do you know of any guide to servicing and lubricating such a thing?

 

Pauli

[Geo]

I don't know if any guides on cylinder escapements, but be very careful when removing and replacing the balance as it is very easy to break a tip off the escapement wheel.

[digginstony]

Definitely start on cheap throw away watches. Normally I work on pocket watches but finding cheap ones these days are getting more hard to find. The second watch may of started as a pocket watch, try looking around the lugs to see if their is any crude soldering. It may be an early wristlet and has value and history. Prior to the first world war men wore pocket watches and it would be considered feminine to wear a wrist watch. When I first started tinkering on watch movements I remember wrecking at least two good movements. Go for CHEAP first until you develop your own skills.

Regards

Tony

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[StuartBaker104]

Beware the cylinder escapement! I struggled with one of these a while back and there are a few things worth noting.

Firstly, unlike a lever escapement, if there is any power left in the mainspring, it will be released by removing the balance. Make sure you let the power down first or you may end up losing a pivot as the wheels all spin round like mad.

Second, you appear to have plenty of extra hairspring to re-pin it with the regulator centered if necessary. This appears to be normal practice for a cylinder escapement. On most lever escapements you will find the hairsprng cut close to the stud.

Thirdly, cylinders and their escape wheels wear out. Check the unlocking on each tooth.

Hopefully I won't upset anyone by posting a link to a forum I used before I found this one but see advice I was given here http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?119907-Medana-(MST-274)-Cylinder-Movement-Running-Slow

If you can track down the two books referenced, then there is some good info there on cylinders.

Good luck!

S

[Chainstay]

I really appreciate your good advice, thanks!

 

And Stuart, that is very helpful information.

 

I think I will practice on a FHF 97, another Unitas 6325 and two movements I found on ebay, an old Timex (don't know the exact caliber yet...) and a relatively cheap Chinese 2824-2-clone. Hopefully I will improve on my technique and learn more about the movement layouts and mechanics. I will probable case the 2824-2-replica. I also have to learn about changing watch glasses and about a thousand other things... Something for the looong winter nights.

 

After that I will consider a Timegrapher of a reasonable price :startle:

Pauli

[Chainstay]

And Tony, you're right, there is some crude soldering soldering around the lugs when examined with a magnifier.

[digginstony]

Nothing is definite in vintage watches. Crude soldering could point to a pocket watch conversion but there could be other reasons such as the lugs being repaired at some time. Wish you well in your endeavours. The secret is to take your time. Don't set time limits. Spend as much time studying the movement as working on it.

Best Regards

Tony

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