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Here’s is an update on the watch. I haven’t worked on the watch since, but I seems like the watch is now running perfect if he don’t wind it fully up. If he just wind it almost fully up, it doesn’t seem to stop.. and it stops after some time if he wind it fully up. -
Thanks a lot. And back to my question on taking the case to bare brass, I guess nobody does it because it will tarnish quickly and look like carp? Are there any UK suppliers of custom dial decals who'd accept a vector file for a dial? I'm coming around to the following plan, I hope it's reasonable: 1) Keep learning about movement parts & function. 2) Get the basic tools, hand-cleaning supplies, cheapest sensible lubrication (m8000 + moly?); 3) Get old pocket watch or ST36 (£18 delivered to my door - this might be hard to beat even with ebay prices). Strip & reassemble a dozen times. Breaking it in the process won't be the end of the world. 4) Get servicing the ingersoll & benrus without breaking them; Alternatively, Buy Seiko NH35 movement, service, assemble a custom watch in a cheapo chinese case. 6) Try not to buy too many broken old watches on ebay, but start thinking about what calibre I want to work with and focus on that. 7) Assuming I'm still at it, try plating a case. -
As you're finding out with electromechanical or analog quartz watches the number one problem would be lubrication goes bad with time and the watches need to be cleaned and then preferably lubricated with a light lubricant specifically designed for quartz watches as they do not like heavy oils. Then it really be nice if you had better test equipment which you don't have but if you really insist on soldering you could just temporarily solder a quartz crystal across the large crystal. Typically if they go bad which? Well we haven't actually established that it's gone bad yet and because you don't have any test equipment it makes it hard to do that but if you want to guests based on your link that it is the quartz crystal typically they would break although these are pretty heavy quartz crystal so breaking isn't maybe what happens but if you think your quartz crystals broken typically it would be open see you could solder another quartz crystal just right on top of it initially to see if that solves your problem in that if it solves your problem just take the old one out and put the new one in. Otherwise it something else which brings up the problem of working on electrical devices you need test equipment. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Not these, they're brass. -
I don't know how many corrections I ended up doing, but I eventually got this watch running well. At least, as well as can be expected of a 40+ year old Russian watch from the Soviet Union. I've been wearing it for a couple of weeks now and it's accurate to within a minute or two a day which I think is reasonable. I followed @nevenbekriev's always helpful instructions and I also had to make the outer coil go a little lower so that the overcoil would not hit the cock (with a little twist 180 degrees away), and I also had to adjust where the overcoil joins the stud. I adjusted the rest position of the impulse jewel to be central before reassembling. I ended up with a beat error of a little over 2ms and decided that was good enough for me on this watch.
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