Jump to content

Rolex 6426 Pendant tube broken and stuck in the case


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone!


I am working on a Rolex 6426 which has a broken pendant tube that is stuck inside the case. The upper part of the pendant tube is broken off so there is nothing to grab onto with a tool or likewise. 

I don't have a lathe and I am wondering what the best course of action is here. Is alumn powder a viable option in this case or will I risk damaging the case? Is perhaps the best way to use a cutting broach to get down to the threads and then try to peel away the rest or will this maybe damage the threads?

Any help would be greatly appreciated(:

// Victor

IMG_4857.jpg

IMG_4861.jpg

IMG_4859.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

Rolex 6426 which has a broken pendant tube that is stuck inside the case

Do you have the replacement to? If you have the replacement tube that would answer the question of whether it's screwed in or not which it probably is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is indeed screwed in, like many Rolex case tubes. I guess my best bet is broaching it out. The diameter of what's left of the pendant tube is way to big for those screw extractors, unfortunately. 

My question about the alumn powder has yet to be answered but I suppose I take that as a no?

Thanks this far(:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, BrehmerR said:

y question about the alumn powder has yet to be answered but I suppose I take that as a no?

Sorry I didn't read the fine print. Typically alum is used to dissolve steel, iron I believe from non-iron materials. So I not sure about stainless steel I'm assuming because it's more stainless than actual steel probably would be okay I would really want to try an experiment because a Rolex case is too expensive to experiment with. But then you face the next problem which is what exactly is the case to be made out of? Typically there made out of brass or nickel and the brass ones are usually plated. I'm assuming Rolex makes it on the same material as the case stainless steel so nothing would be gained here at all.

Then usually they may use some form of Loctite which is why you're having a problem unscrewing it.

53 minutes ago, rossjackson01 said:

'pendant tube', and where it is in the watch? I'll never get to work on a Rolex,

Pendant tube is another name for case tube. I have a link you can see what they all look like and farther down the page are the tools for removing the Rolex ones don't know if they work when things have gone wrong?

https://www.esslinger.com/watch-case-tubes/

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like you say, it feels risky to let the case sit in alum powder since it is a Rolex after all...

I do know a guy who might be able to give me a helping hand, otherwise, I will have to do it with a broach myself. I suppose it's always good to learn a new skill(:

And yes, there is definitely some loctite on the threads. I have unscrewed a number of pendant tubes from vintage Rolex watches and they tend to be much easier to get out, however this one is incredibly stubborn.

Once again, thanks for the advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

Can I be cheeky and ask what is the 'pendant tube', and where it is in the watch? I'll never get to work on a Rolex, but I am interested.

Thank you

Ross

Quoted answer from JohnR275

Pendant tube is another name for case tube. I have a link you can see what they all look like and farther down the page are the tools for removing the Rolex ones don't know if they work when things have gone wrong?

Thank you John, once again to my rescue. Understand now. Should have realised. Easy when you know, hard when you don't.

Ross

Edited by rossjackson01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

Hello everyone!


I am working on a Rolex 6426 which has a broken pendant tube that is stuck inside the case. The upper part of the pendant tube is broken off so there is nothing to grab onto with a tool or likewise. 

I don't have a lathe and I am wondering what the best course of action is here. Is alumn powder a viable option in this case or will I risk damaging the case? Is perhaps the best way to use a cutting broach to get down to the threads and then try to peel away the rest or will this maybe damage the threads?

Any help would be greatly appreciated(:

// Victor

IMG_4857.jpg

IMG_4861.jpg

IMG_4859.jpg

To remove stuck bolts etc I have used easyouts, but not sure if they would be small enough to get inside the tube, bit worth a look?

Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

Screenshot_20230728-120526.thumb.png.fd0c008f838b8917f27860ad787646bf.png

I half remember the Nekkid watchmaker drilling out a tube with a ball type drill bit on a dremel, check out his YouTube channel. Sorry I can't remember which episode it was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Waggy said:

To remove stuck bolts etc I have used easyouts, but not sure if they would be small enough to get inside the tube, bit worth a look?

Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

Screenshot_20230728-120526.thumb.png.fd0c008f838b8917f27860ad787646bf.png

I half remember the Nekkid watchmaker drilling out a tube with a ball type drill bit on a dremel, check out his YouTube channel. Sorry I can't remember which episode it was.

I saw that episode too, but I don't have those tools and it seems rather scary to go at it with a dremel on a Rolex.

I'll have a look the bnolt etractors.

Just bought this for about USD 20.

I'll wait until it arrives and see if I can make magic happen then(:

Screenshot 2023-07-28 at 10.22.39.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, BrehmerR said:

Just bought this for about USD 20

They look like some of the smaller easyouts I have used, good luck, and let us know how it goes!

Can you drop a link where you found them, maybe something good to have in my back pocket just in case!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

Can I be cheeky and ask what is the 'pendant tube', and where it is in the watch? I'll never get to work on a Rolex, but I am interested.

Thank you

Ross

Ross you never know my friend, i always wanted one of the Dirty Dozen military watches, there probably isn't  many that have survived over the years. Not many for sale and when they do come quite pricey. Then one practically fell into my lap one day after a discussion with someone about them. It happens Ross, from what i know about about you, kind, helpful, polite, caring all round decent sort of bloke ( much like myself 🤣 , if someone says yeah right there will be trouble 😄 ) If the universe knows you want a Rolex and it thinks you deserve one, then believe and one will find you all by itself, hang in there and keep being you x 🙂🙂🙂🙂

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I heat a steel rod to a glow, insert it inside the tube and keep repeating to heat up the tube, this will help break the loctite crust or glue if there is any on the tube threads, you can next soak the case in acetone or any solvent fluid that disloves , and loosen the loctitie grip on the tube.

Then remove some of the tube material with a broach, try not get too close to the threads, you have at least weakened the tube structure. I am thinking if you can get the tip of a sewing needle to catch a spot on outer diameter of the tube, tap on the needle as you would on a punch, hopefully this crimps the tube a little, keep on crimping the tube, that changes the problem you are facing, perhaps can be punch out from inside the case out.

My point is that you are not limited to one approach only but can combine.

My vote is avoid direct heat to the case, or broaching to outmost limit, stop where ever you feel is enough and safe. Any tool you buy or use can do some good but unlikely to do the whole  job in one go.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Another thing you could try is to gently tap in a square broach until it binds within the pendant tube. Then heat the case over a spirit lamp gently to soften the loctite and try unscrewing it.

Thats how I've removed broken screws in the past, not broach out but used one to grab the internal. Finding the right grip and depth to avoid broaching. Unlikely it will break the seal of set loctite so as HectorLooi suggests to soften it.

25 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

heat a steel rod to a glow, insert it inside the tube and keep repeating to heat up the tube, this will help break the loctite crust or glue if there is any on the tube threads, you can next soak the case in acetone or any solvent fluid that disloves , and loosen the loctitie grip on the tube.

Good suggestion Joe, or a brass rod, leave inside the tube and the heat will transfer. Dissolving seems a safer method. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did try this method the first thing I did but I was unable to screw it out even while heating the tube up. It just seems to be too stuck. Thanks for the really elaborate advice Nucejoe. I will keep everything in mind when I try to get it out with the extractor set. 

Here is the link to the Amazon page. It's from the Swedish Amazon since that's where I live but I'm sure it can be found elsewhere. 

https://www.amazon.se/-/en/gp/product/B08XXP1SD9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I just got the tools, but no luck. The crown tube simply does not budge. The tool dug a new thread in the tube but did not move it whatsoever and if I go any harder, it will likely damage the threads in the case. I have broached a bit but it feels like that will inevitably ruin the threads too. Is it worth trying the alum powder?
Is there a way to fix stripped case threads in case they are ruined?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, BrehmerR said:

So I just got the tools, but no luck. The crown tube simply does not budge. The tool dug a new thread in the tube but did not move it whatsoever and if I go any harder, it will likely damage the threads in the case. I have broached a bit but it feels like that will inevitably ruin the threads too. Is it worth trying the alum powder?
Is there a way to fix stripped case threads in case they are ruined?

That is the purpose of an extractor to cut a reverse thread into the hole of what is to be removed. It needs to finish cutting the thread and the shoulders meet of both the extractor and the item being removed. At that point you have both items locked together to enable turning out. True you may risk breaking through the tube into the pendant and damage its threads. That has to carefully gauged and choose the correct width extractor to prevent that. Did you first try softening the tube's lock adhesive with acetone as Nucejoe suggested ?

45 minutes ago, BrehmerR said:

So I just got the tools, but no luck. The crown tube simply does not budge. The tool dug a new thread in the tube but did not move it whatsoever and if I go any harder, it will likely damage the threads in the case. I have broached a bit but it feels like that will inevitably ruin the threads too. Is it worth trying the alum powder?
Is there a way to fix stripped case threads in case they are ruined?

The alum solution has unknown variables and you are going to have to dunk at least that portion of the case in it. if you stain the case you will be well pee'd off.  You need to be sure what the case is made from and how it will react. I seem to remember another member doing something like this, Jon ? . Let me try to find it.  Found it, it was Jon but he didnt use alum he used sulfuric acid 🔥. Sounds fun. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Crx14thLdsy/?img_index=2

Screenshot_20230801-131816_Samsung Internet.jpg

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

You need to be sure what the case is made from

This is a good point, but I would add that there is a reasonable probability that the tube is also made of the same stuff as the case ie stainless steel, which the alum will not work on, hence all the risk outlined by @Neverenoughwatches without any chance of reward. Best I can suggest is to use a magnet to find out, 316 stainless is not magnetic (in most cases - but if it is cast it becomes slightly magnetic). So you could see if a magnet is attracted to the tube, if it is then it's probably not stainless steel and the alum is still an option, if the magnet shows no interest in the tube then its probably stainless and alum is off the table.

Not sure what the crown thread is that Rolex use, but if there is any damage and it is a standard size M2, M3, NPT, etc you could chase it with a tap. If it's some oddball Rolex in-house propitiatory thread (as I type this I'm thinking...yes of course it is!) then this may not be an option.

To be honest I think you are running out if options and I hear a dremel in your near future.

Edited by Waggy
Typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like a dremel is indeed what I need to use after all...

I know that that is how the screw extractors work, it's just that what's remaining of the crown tube is so thin that it almost immediately just digs into the threads on the case instead. 

If the case tube is also made out of 904L, would that not mean that Sulphuric acid wouldn't work either since it doesn't really bite on 904L?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Grade 904L stainless steel is a non-stabilized austenitic stainless steel with low carbon content. This high alloy stainless steel is added with copper to improve its resistance to strong reducing acids, such as sulphuric acid."

904L is also nonmagnetic so you can also confirm with a magnet.

 

Ref:

https://blog.thepipingmart.com/grades/904l-stainless-steeluns-n08904-composition-properties-and-uses/

Edited by Waggy
Reference added
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...