Jump to content

Finished up my watch bench


Recommended Posts

I've been working on getting myself a workbench put together.  The kitchen island was not going to cut it for the long term.  Seeing as I wanted to save as much money for tools as I could, I wanted to do save some bucks on the watch bench.  I took a 2nd hand desk that I got for cheap, refinished the desk top, installed a LED light bar, added a power strip, and created some storage in the otherwise useless keyboard tray pullout.  The hutch is good to store some tools and accessories.  I've got a couple of drawers to store parts, supplies, and project watches.  I put a chair pad down over the carpet, to hopefully keep some flying parts out of the carpet.  Hadn't used this much yet, but so far it seems like it will work.  Eventually, I would like to add a binocular microscope to the mix.

00R0R_hL9kad4iOTk_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg

20230407_133742.jpg

20230407_133750.jpg

20230407_133828.jpg

Edited by gpraceman
  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Nice woodwork. 

But you'll need to improve on your lighting. The led bar is not going to be enough.

Yeah, I agree on that.  Not sure that a longer LED bar will help with that.  I need some more back lighting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I did add an inexpensive desk light, from Amazon, to give some targeted lighting.  The color temp and brightness can be adjusted.  This is definitely better than just the hutch light and room lighting.

I wasn't liking the silicone pad that I started with.  It was a bit grippy so it wasn't easy to clean off.  The new desk pad is faux leather and easier to clean.

I'll see how these go.

20230415_193801.jpg

Edited by gpraceman
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its nice but you don't have a lot of leg room and things can easily roll off and end up on the floor.  To many corners where dust will settle making it hard to clean.  Mind you I'm the last person on here to give you advice as my bench was always untidy stuff all over the place. my master was always telling me to clean my bench.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Its nice but you don't have a lot of leg room and things can easily roll off and end up on the floor.  To many corners where dust will settle making it hard to clean.  Mind you I'm the last person on here to give you advice as my bench was always untidy stuff all over the place. my master was always telling me to clean my bench.  

I haven't really seen an issue with legroom.  I know that it is not the ideal workstation.  I am working with what my pocketbook can manage and my spouse won't complain about.  So, I'll make the best of this setup for now. 😉

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think all of us start with a nice and neat bench. Then things have a tendency to creep out of the drawers and scatter themselves all over the table. Perhaps it's the gnomes and elves hiding under the table that are responsible. 

So, having more legroom means more room for elves and gnomes to hide. 🤣

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, gpraceman said:

I did add an inexpensive desk light, from Amazon, to give some targeted lighting.  The color temp and brightness can be adjusted.  This is definitely better than just the hutch light and room lighting.

I wasn't liking the silicone pad that I started with.  It was a bit grippy so it wasn't easy to clean off.  The new desk pad is faux leather and easier to clean.

I'll see how these go.

20230415_193801.jpg

Maybe something to surround the sides of the table to catch pingers. I just used some thick card as an upstand and on the front edge i have some self adhesive sponge thats around half an inch thick. This gives a soft edge for your forearms to rest on and also will catch the odd low flyer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

I think all of us start with a nice and neat bench. Then things have a tendency to creep out of the drawers and scatter themselves all over the table. Perhaps it's the gnomes and elves hiding under the table that are responsible. 

So, having more legroom means more room for elves and gnomes to hide. 🤣

While my work areas can get messy during a project, my dislike of chaos won't let me keep them that way for long.

I intend to keep minimal things living on the desktop to make cleaning easier.  I'll likely end up moving the timegrapher up to the hutch.

9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Maybe something to surround the sides of the table to catch pingers. I just used some thick card as an upstand and on the front edge i have some self adhesive sponge thats around half an inch thick. This gives a soft edge for your forearms to rest on and also will catch the odd low flyer.

I appreciate constructive feedback to make this workstation more workable. 

I am thinking how to incorporate some side rails.  But they must look good with the desk.  I think that I have some nice cherry wood scraps in my garage workshop that I could stain to match the desktop.  But what's a good rail height?

Your self adhesive sponge comment made me think of using a keyboard wrist pad on the front edge.  I might have to steal the one off my computer station to see if the idea would work.  I had wanted to route out a channel near the front edge of the desk to catch anything trying to roll off the front, but despite the seller saying the desk was "all wood", the top is really laminated.  I negotiated the price down because of that fact.  Hard to find 2nd hand furniture these days that isn't at least some parts laminated particle board.

I do want to close up that gap in the back, but still allow to run power cords if needed.  Not sure if server rack brush panels would work.  Though, trying to find a fine wire spring in those brush bristles might be difficult.  Might just have to do the card stock idea or maybe some soft foam sheet.

Bownet0120-CWC-5013-550x550w.jpg

Edited by gpraceman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...