Jump to content

2x Barlow lens yes/no ?


Recommended Posts

6 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

The problem with microscope selection is it has to be the right microscope. It should have a wide enough field of view and a great enough depth of field that basically can take the place of a loop. Often times the microscopes end up with limited depth of field or very shallow working distances and then you really can't work under them or you really can't see What you need to see.

Sorry, I should have been more precise, By 'microscope' I meant what we have been discussing - a 7x to 45x zoom stereo with good working distance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/21/2023 at 7:28 AM, Endeavor said:

Assuming that you are right in saying that the "most of us" are using a magnification range of 3.5x - 22.5x, than there would be no need for me increase beyond 45x .... Yes/No?

My microscope came with both 0.5 and 2.0 Barlow lenses. I’ve never used the 2.0. The 0.5 is essential IMHO to give the working distance to comfortably handle tools. 
Viewing from the side (using a Jeweling tool etc) is about the only time I use a loupe. To minimize loupe use I sometimes use a 90-45-45 glass prism (as a mirror) to inspect the side of a movement. I also obtained a cheap USB microscope that I can lay on its side and display on a monitor. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/22/2023 at 2:06 PM, mikepilk said:

So lots of cables. I screwed a couple of 4 gang extension leads to the back face of the desk. Run the cables over the back, wrapped together = nice and tidy (unless you pull the desk from the wall and look at the back 😯

My "one cable" modification; within a few days upon the arrival of the new scope and ring-light, the warranty is already lost and the usual: "don't try this at home" 😉

IMG_2611.thumb.jpeg.3cdc05d6118f67bb135922ebc5cda18f.jpeg

IMG_2609.thumb.jpeg.1433216ca020778ed5301170beae7caf.jpeg

IMG_2612.thumb.jpeg.6fab9239593201fae4f93b3994e301bf.jpeg

IMG_2613.thumb.jpeg.3f49d0a7917ab054e0dce2d8e786e83d.jpeg

IMG_2614.thumb.jpeg.4032e911b63e39bbb24439b1ddadcb02.jpeg

IMG_2615.thumb.jpeg.089adb31066b15d6d9a9578bd954481e.jpeg

IMG_2616.thumb.jpeg.7c7da0c4e676d4739b4885d95d632c1f.jpeg

The ring-light takes away some of the working height, so yes, a 0.5x Barlow lens is next. Gonna-be awesome ! 🤩

 

 

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Endeavor said:

My "one cable" modification; within a few days upon the arrival of the new scope and ring-light, the warranty is already lost and the usual: "don't try this at home" 😉

The ring-light takes away some of the working height, so yes, a 0.5x Barlow lens is next. Gonna-be awesome ! 🤩

Nice job.

Of course you have those tiny 2 pin mains plugs with thin leads. In the UK we have much bigger 3 pin plugs and thicker cables (with 240V we can draw bigger amperage). So even more to hide.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

There doesn't seem to be any middle ground though

Yes, there is and on top of that double isolated, like many of your home appliances.

3 hours ago, mikepilk said:

In the UK we have much bigger 3 pin plugs and thicker cables

Yes, you guys are blessed; a switch in the wall-socket, with some luck a switch AND a fuse in the plug, this next to all the other fuses and switches 😁.

BTW, when I was living in Scotland (80's), one could buy fuse-wire and wind your own main-fuse. If it blew often, you just give it a bit more wire 😅  ....... those were the days !

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

Yes, there is and on top of that double isolated, like many of your home appliances.

Yes, you guys are blessed; a switch in the wall-socket, with some luck a switch AND a fuse in the plug, this next to all the other fuses and switches 😁.

BTW, when I was living in Scotland (80's), one could buy resistance-wire and wind your own main-fuse. If it blew often, you just give it a bit more wire 😅  ....... those were the days !

Haha, I was talking about visors not electricity. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Received the 0.5x Barlow lens, the optics are fine but as I was afraid for, I either need a neck-extension, a small step-ladder or a lower table. In my case with the current setup, not very useful 😞

 

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Endeavor said:

Received the 0.5x Barlow lens, the optics are fine but as I was afraid for, I either need a neck-extension, a small step-ladder or a lower table. In my case with the current setup, not very useful 😞

 

How about a height-adjustable table!? It is very convenient to be able to adjust the table height to suit exactly the work to be done (with or without the microscope). Another investment yes, but there are often plenty of used tables to be had.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

How about a height-adjustable table!? It is very convenient to be able to adjust the table height to suit exactly the work to be done (with or without the microscope). Another investment yes, but there are often plenty of used tables to be had.

I've considered making one watchie but i wasn't sure about the fact of not being able to put your legs under the table. And how uncomfortable the seating position would be.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, VWatchie said:

How about a height-adjustable table!? It is very convenient to be able to adjust the table height to suit exactly the work to be done (with or without the microscope). Another investment yes, but there are often plenty of used tables to be had.

I just finished setting up 3 tables from Ikea. 2 of them can be set to whatever height you desire and the 3rd one has a crank that lets you adjust the height manually. There are a few motorized versions too but they were almost double the price. And they even come with a 10 year warranty (whatever that means).

So I set one for microscope work, one at shoulder level for general work and the adjustable one for doing clock repair.

I'm itching to get another adjustable one for lathe work.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

I just finished setting up 3 tables from Ikea. 2 of them can be set to whatever height you desire and the 3rd one has a crank that lets you adjust the height manually. There are a few motorized versions too but they were almost double the price. And they even come with a 10 year warranty (whatever that means).

So I set one for microscope work, one at shoulder level for general work and the adjustable one for doing clock repair.

I'm itching to get another adjustable one for lathe work.

 

How is the seating position of a low table Hector ? I cant seem to get my head around the idea. The distance between your legs fitting under the table and your eye height would always remain the same regardless off any height of table. And as the microscope eyepieces are further from the bench top as Endeavor says a neck extension to heighten your eye level is the perfect option. I can only imagine 🤔 standing to view through the scope, legs straddling the sides of the table ( which sounds really uncomfortable) or a chiropractor with arms like Arnie to stretch your neck a few inches. If you have a long torso then fine just an adjustable chair to get you up to the full height of your legs just fitting under the table.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The focal distance (from tip of eyepieces to bottom of microscope stand) is less than the distance of your eyes to your lap. So it's like raising the base of your microscope up to your eye level. As long as it's a plain table top without a drawer underneath, there should be plenty of legroom under the table.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make friends with some office people. I assume the UK isn't that far off the US in terms of all the offices everywhere going remote, and lightly used office furniture, etc. going for cheap to free. Adjustable height desks should be able to be found. My wife's company expanded and doubled their office space about two weeks before everything shut down in 2020, and they're unloading all of their office space as everyone is now working from home. All the furniture and everything is going and gone. 

That said, I'm curious about the rest of your setup. I have essentially the same scope (different stand, but same head, etc., so same net height at the eyepieces), and I'm a short guy (5'5" or about 8 bananas for the metric folk), and I feel like it's the perfect height to sit up straight (as in good posture) and have all the working distance. This is with my desk chair (standard fare) and an old kitchen table (standard fare) or my desk (same height).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, spectre6000 said:

That said, I'm curious about the rest of your setup. I have essentially the same scope (different stand, but same head, etc., so same net height at the eyepieces), and I'm a short guy (5'5" or about 8 bananas for the metric folk), and I feel like it's the perfect height to sit up straight (as in good posture) and have all the working distance. This is with my desk chair (standard fare) and an old kitchen table (standard fare) or my desk (same height).

I'm the same - same 'scope, different stand, 0.5x Barlow. I have a 'standard' office desk and height adjustable chair.  I have to have the chair raised up, but I find the working height perfect. 

Do they have very high tables in Denmark @Endeavor ?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

The focal distance (from tip of eyepieces to bottom of microscope stand) is less than the distance of your eyes to your lap. So it's like raising the base of your microscope up to your eye level. As long as it's a plain table top without a drawer underneath, there should be plenty of legroom under the table.

👍 maybe i'm still missing something then, how is an adjustable height table an advantage over an adjustable height chair 🤷‍♂️

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I get the heights of the tables set correctly, I can scoot around from one table to another without having to constantly adjust the height of my chair. I can maintain my posture and reduce fatigue. And I don't like working in a half squat position one minute and then teetering in a high chair the next.

Haha. I don't know. Maybe it's a dentist thing. We like to bring our work to a comfortable height while keeping our backs straight all the time. 🤔

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Once I get the heights of the tables set correctly, I can scoot around from one table to another without having to constantly adjust the height of my chair. I can maintain my posture and reduce fatigue. And I don't like working in a half squat position one minute and then teetering in a high chair the next.

Haha. I don't know. Maybe it's a dentist thing. We like to bring our work to a comfortable height while keeping our backs straight all the time. 🤔

Ah sounds convenient if you have the space. So when we getting to see your watch room then Hector ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Do they have very high tables in Denmark

I'm not aware if my table with 76cm is particularly high? With the 0.5x barlow lens and a movement in the movement-holder underneath, adjusted sharp, the distance from table-top to the top-edge of the eye-pieces is 50cm. With my adjustable chair in the highest position, I can just look down the microscope but I've to sit (uncomfortably) on the edge of the chair.  The base of the microscope stand takes already 5cm (it all adds up!). Without the base, it would probably have been okay, but that's not how it is. So, with my current setup, the 0.5x Barlow doesn't work well for me (1.84mtr).

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

I'm not aware if my table with 76cm is particularly high? With the 0.5x barlow lens and a movement in the movement-holder underneath, adjusted sharp, the distance from table-top to the top-edge of the eye-pieces is 50cm. With my adjustable chair in the highest position, I can just look down the microscope but I've to sit (uncomfortably) on the edge of the chair.  The base of the microscope stand takes already 5cm (it all adds up!). Without the base, it would probably have been okay, but that's not how it is. So, with my current setup, the 0.5x Barlow doesn't work well for me (1.84mtr).

Maybe mine works for me as I have it setup on an articulated arm so no base to get in the way the movement holder is on the desk.

 

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set my table at 75cm high. But I have tiltable microscope mount and I tilt it back about 15 to 20 degrees, so that brings the eyepieces lower and I don't have to peer down the eyepiece. And when working on the movement, the tilt allows longer tools to fit under the lenses. The tilt also prevents the hands from blocking the view. I highly recommend getting a tiltable mount.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That can be tricky. Sometimes I hold the movement from the edges in left hand and with right hand I push the release with tweezers and simultaneously pull the stem out with right hand pinky or something. 
    • I see what you mean. I must admit I’m not entirely comfortable with that but I can’t see a better method than what you suggest. I’d like to see something like this mirror with a short spike: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mirror-for-observing-movements Place it on, push the spike on the post with one hand and release the stem with the other hand. Minor problem, it doesn’t exist.
    • Hope you mum keeps on mending. I was adamant that I was going to get myself going after my stroke. I was only 52. I still have a lot of life left to live. Some people give up. Some people don't let it beat them. Your mum sounds like one of the winners. 👍
    • Moved in. Now working out the best place to have things so moving around the room makes sense. The wooden movement testing rig may end up being suspended from the roof with some pulleys and ropes that I salvaged from some alfresco blinds that we replaced. I always seem to salvage things from things we scrap thinking, "I have an idea what I can use these for." I hope I'm not the only one that does that. My wife hates me for it. "What are you going to do with all this crap?" Anyway, here you go. If anyone has suggestions for workflow around a room, speak up. All Ideas are appreciated. The bench on wheels will carry either a laptop or my Samsung table for using with the little camera that is on the tripod for photos while dismantling etc. The small bar fridge in the corners going to have water etc in it and I might move the coffee maker from the kitchen out there as I am the only one that uses it. I want to get an ultrasonic cleaner so I may set up some sort of cleaning rig in front of the glass of the sliding door. Where the grandmother clock is currently standing. I'm hoping that I will be able to transition my working area, which is the table that the stool is sitting in front of, fairly easily between clocks and watches. I'll be doing my best to make sure that tools for each are separatedwhen stored. Logistics. I'll have a bit of wall space for being able to hang clocks if I find some that I wish to keep or hopefully at some time to be able to hang customer clocks for monitoring after servicing/repairs. The clock on the left in the blue pillow slip and the grandmother clock are earmarked for  Jarryd and his wife, Sara. He helped me move the benches in today. And then went on to tell me that ticking clocks drive him nuts. Who doesn't like the rhythmic ticking of a clock? I have a green pad for adding to the bench for a working surface. It is not a cutting mat or one of the Bergeon mats. It is actually a green desk writing mat. Was really cheap and will do exactly what I want, I think. I also have to get the sparkies back that put our new stove in to put some power points on the walls behind the benches. Hopefully this is all going to go well. I'm excited about it. It'll beat having to live out in the garage doing it. The other thing I have to do is cut a circle or square of plastic to go over the bouncing watch or clock part black hole in the middle of the floor. I would pretty much guarantee that anything that sproings off the bench would end up going straight down that drain. 😄      I think I have been on this forum about 4 years and still yet to really strike a blow. That's a bit sad isn't it. Signed up to Mark's watch course and have yet to buy the movement for working on. Have most of the tools I think I will need so now all just a matter of will.   I have to make a crank handle for my Joe Collins spring winder as well and some spring retaining tubes as I can't find where I can buy them. I will be salvaging (here I go again) the aluminium tubing from my old hang glider which I have to scrap as I can't fly anymore and it is too old to sell. All the aluminium tubing is aircraft grade so I am hoping it will be suitable for the winder. I have also been making a bushing tool and I have just worked out that it will work well with my Dremel stand. So another thing that I can turn into a working tool. Don't know if you guys have ever seen the ad about the guy that buys himself a new 4WD and the son says "We're going to need a bigger boat." So Liz is looking at all the stuff we have to get rid of and says "We're going to need a bigger bin." Really difficult to work out how big a Dempster bin we need. Sigh.
    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
×
×
  • Create New...