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Whats everybody's technique on oiling non-shock protected cap jewels


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Exactly as WW said. In most cases trying to oil the cap jewel then screwing the setting together will result in a total mess.

 

I usually use taper pins for pinning hairsprings (because I have 10s of thousands of them), but there's a commercial tool that works great, known as an oil inserter or oil pusher. Oil the cup side of the hole jewel, then push the oil through to the cap, capillary attraction will pull it all down then. More can be added as needed to get the oil circle correct. The oil pushers have the pin in a reversible bit for protection in the handle, and a couple of spare pins in the back of the handle. Very good tool; not quite fine enough for some of the smallest ladies calibers, but great for 99% of watches.

 

 

oil pusher.jpg

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Hi I just joined thank you for having me.

I know this is an older thread but, so in this case of using capilary action to oil the jewel, you rely on cleaning and rinsing to remove the bulk of the old oil from between jewels?   

Edited by hisstoryman
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On 4/6/2024 at 4:56 AM, hisstoryman said:

you rely on cleaning and rinsing to remove the bulk of the old oil from between jewels?   

If the jewel cannot be disassembled, you have to rely on the cleaning machine, hopefully cleaning it out. If the jewel can be taken apart, then you need to do so, and make sure it's absolutely clean.

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that is correct for a lot of repairers, I personally like to remove the screws that hold the cap jewels on, it allows for hole pegging and inspection of jewels, some have press fit jewels but not often in wrist watches......oiling can be done like all methods mentioned above

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Hisstoryman, it is always best to disassemble all capped jewel settings (if possible) to remove the cap jewel, peg out the hole jewel, put the parts through the cleaning machine machine and inspect them under magnification to ensure they’re clean and instant before thinking about oiling.
 

The smallest amount of dirt or dried oil, particularly in a balance jewel setting can really impair the performance of a watch. 
 

If you look closely at the capped jewels of the (relatively few) movements where you can’t disassemble the setting, you will usually see little gaps around the cap jewel to allow cleaning fluids to flow through the setting during cleaning. These were designed so ultrasonic cleaning would clean out the setting without disassembling the jewel setting. 

If you encounter one that does not clean adequately, most are friction fit and can be pushed out, cleaned and then reinstalled with a Horia tool. 

Once the jewels are cleaned, if you choose to oil them using capillary action, you need a tool fine enough to pass through the hole jewel once you’ve placed a drop of oil on the hole with a normal stick oiler. Once you’ve drawn the oil into the setting by capillary action, check the size of the oil bubble in the setting and add more if necessary.

The tool pictured above by nickelsilver, the HOROTEC 17.003, is excellent for this purpose and the tip is fine enough to pass through the jewel hole in almost all movements you are likely to encounter. 

The Bergeon 5423-A is also advertised for performing the same task, but I’ve found that the tip often isn’t fine enough to enter the jewel hole. You could file one down even finer, but the tool isn’t great for this purpose without modification. 
 

In the few instances I’ve encountered a hole jewel that the Horotec oiler can’t pass through, I’ve used either a hairspring pin as nickelsilver describes, or a replacement tampon for a cylinder escapement with a very fine pivot held in a pin vise. 

I know of people who use a balance staff they’ve replaced that still has one fine pivot intact, glued into a handle as a capillary oiling tool, and that should work well too. 

Hope that helps,

Mark

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