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Another tinkerer


Gregjam

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After watching and admiring Mark's videos on youtube which resulted in me having an Amphibia in pieces I really appreciate how difficult working on watches is but find them fascinating. I live in Thailand but work abroad and get long periods at home which allow me an excess of time to pore over the internals of a watch. As I am getting older I now like large watches with clear simple dials that I can read hence my current favourites being my Panerai and Tudor Black Bay Bronze. It started with changing batteries for friends and family but now I prefer to steer clear of quartz and prefer mechanical watches. My collection ranges from said quartz pieces including a nice Mondaine railway clock type watch through some citizen eco-drive watches (one being a minute repeater as it is unlikely that I could afford a mechanical one) and mechanical watches. My first mechanical watch was a Seiko Actus (Seiko 5 for Japanese market) bought in 1977 which I gave to my father and have since inherited, still working but could do with a service. Amongst my collection are a Vostok 24 hour dial  and Amphibia, Seiko 5's, Chinese Brigada Tourbillon and some homages at the cheaper end which are suitable to practice on. A little bit higher up are watches from Glycine, Ball and a step higher are a PAM590, latest Omega Seamaster, Tudor black bay bronze and lately I have picked up a Corum Admirals Cup with the rattrapante movement (which needs servicing and an extra link which I will ask about on the forum). I have joined this forum as it appears to have others with similar interests and hopefully I can both get advice plus, if I can, offer some in the event I am able to.

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    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
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