Jump to content

Hamilton Two Part Stem Removal


Recommended Posts

I noticed a few postings regarding split-stems and I'm having a similar problem. Sorry if I missed the solution.

I'm working on a Hamilton "Electric". I may need to check again but, it appears it's an ETA 551.121. I removed the crystal and the back.

I was able to drop the movement out because the crown came off.

I'm concerned about pulling hard on the stem. I found a site that claimed you can slowly turn the crown back while wiggling  ( http://www.mybulova.com/node/4602). I found this unsuccessful.

I've included  a couple photos of the stem. I also noticed an arrow directly above the stem pointing to what looks like a release for the 2nd part (see black and white pic w/arrow).

I didn't want to depress the pin for fear I may have trouble getting things back together.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Dave.

 

post-975-0-78246200-1435116972_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-89544000-1435117014_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave.

If you remove the clamps that hold the movement into the brass ring and given the position that the stem is in just now, you should be able to separate the stem by carefully pushing down on the part of the stem that is in the movement. It may be quite stiff, but it should slide apart.

If you now use a small screwdriver or pin punch and press on the pin or lever in the hole marked with an arrow, the stem should release. You might have to pull the stem to the setting position first to get access to the release mechanism.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geo,

I removed the screws for the re

 

Hi Dave.

If you remove the clamps that hold the movement into the brass ring and given the position that the stem is in just now, you should be able to separate the stem by carefully pushing down on the part of the stem that is in the movement. It may be quite stiff, but it should slide apart.

If you now use a small screwdriver or pin punch and press on the pin or lever in the hole marked with an arrow, the stem should release. You might have to pull the stem to the setting position first to get access to the release mechanism.

Geo,

I removed the two screws to separate the brass ring. However, dial pins prevented the movement from separating. It was not obvious from the photo that the dial and hands were attached. I lightly pried on the dial at the pin locations to help the movement drop from the ring. The movement seemed to be hung up. I didn't have luck pushing on the stem section in the movement with the dial and hands in place. I used the info you gave me to depress the pin to remove the entire stem. From there I used a pin vise to reattach the crown. I assembled the back and movement/dial and reinserted both parts of the stem intact  (like working with a wet noodle).  Then I installed the crystal.

I find it hard to believe that all this is involved to change the battery. As much as I tried, I could not get enough movement to slide the stem apart. The only way I could see this as a reasonable procedure is to pull the crystal and then separate the stem to remove the back. Otherwise, I had no access to the stem. I was just lucky that the crown unscrewed when I started working on it. That permitted me to get the back off.

 

I'm so grateful you answered my post. I tried to give as much information and photos but, without the experience in watch repair, I miss details. You're response gave me much needed confidence to continue with the process.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

P.S. I would have responded sooner but I work part-time. I wanted to try your suggestions before I responded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave, that's great that you finally got it sorted. Having read your post where you say the stem wouldn't slide apart, a good strong pull of the crown outwards would have separated it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geo,

I guess In the future, I'll try turning the crown ccw in small increments giving the movement a chance to drop out. Otherwise, I'll have to give a strong pull.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It looks like the canon pinion function is part of this great wheel. The pinion nearest the clip runs the minute wheel on the dual side. The pinion nearest the wheel is driven by a small wheel from under the setting lever cover plate that engages in hand setting position.    So when assembled the crown was driving the whole great train. Does this mean the pinions are too tight? Should I attempt to disassemble this great wheel and lubricants?
    • Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff from the seat-side out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this method worked out ! 😊  
    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...