Jump to content

An Olma From The 1940S


WillFly

Recommended Posts

Cheapskate that I am, I can't resist picking up a cheapie on eBay now and then and, for not much more than the price of a round of drinks, got this watch from the 1940s - which arrived this morning. The make is "Olma", a Swiss brand registered in 1926 but now obviously owned by an Asian company. Olma was probably in the lower half of the Swiss watchmaking hierarchy, using good, dependable movements. The one in this watch is an AS 1287 - pre-incabloc, with a typical 1940s, quasi-military dial.

 

post-64-0-89820700-1433862172_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-44976100-1433862176_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's always tempting to try to repair some of the obvious signs of age - case, crystal, dial, hands, etc. In this instance, the dial is good and the hands are passable. (The strap came fitted new by the seller). But I'm always cautious in these cases.

 

The case rear is good - quite well chromed and clean - which leaves the bezel and the crystal. The bezel is of a gold-finished base metal and is well "brassed". Not much can be done there other than re-chrome it - which I won't do because it's not worth it. But I might try some very careful and gentle polishing with Autosol. The crystal is high-domed - typical for its period - and has slight scratching across the surface, but is not yellowed (being glass). So I'm actually inclined to leave it - unusual for me because I normally like to replace them.

 

The movement was serviced by the seller - whatever that might mean. It was set by me this morning and is currently correct almost to the second, and the regulator is almost bang in the middle of the -/+ mark. So - no messing with this one.

 

It is what it is - a nice, simple, 75-year old wristwatch that cost me very little.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...