Jump to content

Fle market score -Vostok Amphibia

anilv

By anilv
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sharing pics of my latest flea market acquisition.

I am a long time flea-market addict, dating back 30 years ago when I was working in Singapore and there was an area called Sungei Road (River Road) where old tools, electronic stuff and watches could be had cheaply. I usually focus on getting non-working watches as they are usually cheap and even if I can't get them working they will usually be a good source of parts!

Two weeks ago I was at a flea-market local to me and stopped by a coin-vendor as he usually will have some watches. I asked to look at a Seiko 5 and the Vostok. He was a bit grumpy and said that the watches were not working so MYR30 (less than USD8) each. The Seiko was a Feiko but I couldn't take my money out fast enough for the Vostok. 

Now here's a top tip when buying old watches.. if the seller is saying the watch is not working do not try to wind or shake it because the moment it starts to tick the price will change! I just paid the man and only started to fiddle with it once I was away.

20220615_103837.thumb.jpg.7c13db908442b5558967bb4d32712807.jpg

These Vostoks have a screwdown crown and the problem with a screwdown crown is there has to be some play in the stem/crown movement to accomodate the screw-down. Most watches with a screwdown crown have a springloaded crown but Vostok cheaped out on the spring!. Once you unscrew the crown you have to apply a bit of outwards movement to engage the crown with the stem to hand-wind. Easy enough if you're used to it but it would be easy to mistake the for a defect. To set the time you just pull the crown further like you would on any other watch.  No quickset or semi-quickset (where you move the hands past midnight to around 8pm and move forwards) but the date does go back when you set the time backwards so you are never more that 15 days away from the correct date!

20220615_103857(1).thumb.jpg.6d5971057558a9465154148bc1efd759.jpg

Overall it's in decent shape and running well enough but I will need to service it properly as the timegrapher trace is a bit erratic. Didn't even change out the strap .. just drenched it in some sanitizer. The dial is not really to my taste but not a problem at the price!

 

Anilv

Edited by anilv
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
gbyleveldt WRT Addict

gbyleveldt

Posted
Posted

Nice find, and thanks for the tip to not mess with the watch in front of the seller. My curiosity usually can't wait so I want to check it there and then. But you right, for $8 you grab and walk away!

Not sure why your semi-quickset doesn't work, but I have two Vostok Amphibia's here where you can advance the date by doing the 12 to 9 to 12 thing without issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Following on from my question about identifying screws in the AS2063 movement that basically fell out of the case in bits, I’m pleased to report that I’ve got it all back together, and the movement is running pretty well.    But… There’s something wrong with the keyless works and hand setting. It’s fine in winding and quickset date position - these work - but in hand setting position winding the crown turns the whole gear train.  I don’t really understand how it’s meant to work. It doesn’t have a traditional friction fit cannon pinion.  The second wheel is unusual with a pair of smaller pinions on it, which seem to interact with the barrel and the motion works.    Could this be the problem? I must admit I just cleaned it and popped it in place when reassembling the gear train. I’ve lubricated the pivots but didn’t do anything to the extra bits on the second wheel.    Does this make sense and is anyone able to figure out what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance, as always. 
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service. Just got confirmation that Moebius 9501 has a lower viscosity (68 at 20° C) than 9504 (305 at 20°).
    • rehajm
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By rehajm · Posted

      I’ve had a couple movements where it is clear the previous watchmaker was diligent with lubrication but the old epilam had turned to a fine white powder covering the pallet fork and keyless parts, which can’t be good for parts. I’m spare with epi since I don’t know how long it takes to degrade to that state…
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro. I thought the idea was for the epilame to create a barrier, a wall between the lubrication and anything else, so the lube cant spread.
    • mikepilk
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By mikepilk · Posted

      As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
×
×
  • Create New...