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Is Welby 400 day clock made by Kundo?


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Hi LWS  The besy way to confirm it is a good clear picture of the backplate without the suspension guard on. We can then compare it to the illustrations in the Charles Trewilliger book, It has pics onf all the backplates. This is why this book is a must when dealing with these clocks as is the adjustment tool makes life a lot easier.

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32 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi LWS  The besy way to confirm it is a good clear picture of the backplate without the suspension guard on. We can then compare it to the illustrations in the Charles Trewilliger book, It has pics onf all the backplates. This is why this book is a must when dealing with these clocks as is the adjustment tool makes life a lot easier.

Yeah, I am gonna just bite the bullet and buy the book.  There are several editions.  How late (in terms of editions) do you think I need to go...assuming I buy it on the used market.

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  • 1 month later...

Back on this project after getting the Horolovar book.  The clock I have matches Plate 1579B which directs me to Unit 23B suspension spring setup.

Nope, way too long. 

Is this an error, or am I missing something?

I have ninth edition of the book because the tenth was not in stock where I looked.

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Plate 1579B is for a Welby Corporation clock. On pp179 ( edition 10)shows the plate templates to be used to get the correct length. Unit set up is either 5C,5D or 5E. Measured the total lengths as follows 5C is a touch under 95mm 5D is 95mm and 5E is a touch over 95mm.

970868D5-9A50-4FC3-ADAD-4F07B684B407.thumb.jpeg.106b9a3d4b139e2af673cdb7bb7280f7.jpeg

 

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It is vital that the fork is in the correct position other wise it will flutter and cause the clock to gain, fluttering is when m several escape teeth escape at the same time. A tiny drop of oil each side of the long tail of the pallets that goes between the forks will prevent friction it will help with the action.  

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6 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

It is vital that the fork is in the correct position other wise it will flutter and cause the clock to gain, fluttering is when m several escape teeth escape at the same time. A tiny drop of oil each side of the long tail of the pallets that goes between the forks will prevent friction it will help with the action.  

I have it adjusted with no flutter, but I did this iteratively (the book was no help) until enough rotation was achieved and enough power delivered to the pendulum to keep running.   I also oiled both sides of the pallets.  I have also adjusted the beat (visually).  It is running and this morning, I installed the hands so I can see how well it keeps time.

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Strange my book 10th edition shows a different movement (see pic) for that number it also does not have a Welby Corp.  (16x36).

HOWEVER a Uhrenfabrik M. Reiner movement to which is almost identical with a 16x 36 size plate No 1672 see pic. I would bet this is the spec you need for the spring.C7511F03-E647-457F-BD3D-4123D0D68E5A.thumb.jpeg.1e65878ca683d3f71865d0d6a189626f.jpeg

9E006CCE-363D-439A-9268-C66A776CDA1C.thumb.jpeg.46d748ff9a336eff0c0dcdc711e02e5a.jpeg

 

 

Edited by clockboy
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Mysteries abound.  The Reiner plate you show from Ed 10, also gives a different spring thickness as you noted.  I bought and installed the spring listed in the page I posted--a significant difference!!

This morning, I found Ed 10 on ebay for a good price and it is on its way.  I will put them together on my bookshelf along with a suitable coin!

Edited by LittleWatchShop
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Depending how fast it is running it is possible to thin a suspension spring. I have done it by pulling the spring in between two buff sticks. Obviously care has to be taken not too twist or snap the spring but I can confirm it does work. I cannot remember the make of 400 day clock I was working on but changing to the next lowest strength spring was too far so I had to just thin the original spring. 

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