Jump to content

My first attempt at making hands.

Angrybear
 Share

Recommended Posts

Angrybear WRT Addict

Angrybear

Posted
Posted

This is something I've been putting off as it seemed like such a daunting task. I needed to make some hands for a design I had been working on, but without access to a lathe, staking set, or infact a lot of the tools I figured I would need, I didn't think It would be possible.

I had a go anyway and this is how they turned out. Lots of work left to do (like actually trying to make the round bits round, polishing, plating etc), but here they are.

PS please ignore the dial. Its an experiment in engraving a design I'm working on, but ill talk about that in a separate thread.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Angrybear WRT Addict

Angrybear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Hector. I made them out of a sheet of 0.7mm brass I had. Although I had some 0.5mm stainless steel I thought it may be too hard to grip the cannon pinion and the hour wheel. I knew I didn’t have the correct equipment to fit brass tubes to stainless steel hands, so I figured if I just made the entire hand out of brass that may work instead. 
If I had made the hands out of stainless, do you think they would have fitted ok without the brass tubes? 
I assumed that the soft brass was necessary to ‘grip’ the cannon pinion/ hour wheel without damaging them. 
I feel the stainless would have made superior hands that took a better polish, and wouldn’t need plating. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Angrybear WRT Addict

Angrybear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the video, very interesting. I only used a hand drill and a set of needle files for the hour and minute hands, so this would be quite a big step forward. I think I’ll try to make another set from stainless steel and see what happens. I’ll keep you posted. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • mthomas828
      Balance staff sourcing?

      By mthomas828 · Posted

      Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • LittleWatchShop
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...