Jump to content

Hello from good old Germany


UhrTobi

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm just a beginner, too, and I'm verry interested in mechanical watches at all. I'm a physicist and engineer and work in a university of applied sciences in germany. 

Because I get a new watch from "Mühle Glashütte", there is a high motivation for me to do the service by my self. So obviously there will be  5 years time (following the manual) to learn how to do that until the first service will be necessary (please excuse my poor englisch - it's not my highest qualification 😉). I will did my first practice on a Seiko watch with a 7S26C movement. And I dissassembled it following the youtube videos, clean it and put it together again two times, and it's still alive 😀.  But it has some problems I'm not able to solve - I will post in a an other threat. I do al lot of 3D-printing, so I developed a couple of tools such as a movement holder, a wheel centerer and a hand placer by my self and produce it by my 3D-printer - and all works fine 😄

Thats all from me for this time and I'm verry glad to be here.

Many thanks and best regards from good old Germany

Tobi

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome.

I like the sound of the 3D printing, you'll have to post some pics of the tools and movement holders you have made.

I quite like the look of the Mühle Glashütte 29 ER Day/Date on the metal strap and the chronograph with the white dial.  I do like a red second hand on a watch too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks! 😀

Yes, your are right, my "Mühle" is a 29er, too . Because I'm not at home, I can only post the rendered views at this time. You can see the hand placer an some tiny tools such as the wheel centerer, the movement holder but also an oil bowl and - I don't know the correct name is - a barrel assebler. Some of them are made out of CFK-PLA such as the lower part of the barrel assebler, the movement holder and the hand placer. To get a fine surface I presst some hot ball-bearing balls in the pits of the oil bowl. All axes are made from 6mm-steel and the threaded rods are M6x1🙂

best regards

Tobi

hand placer.png

tiny tools.png

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Herzlich willkommen, herr Tobi.  I have lived in the US all my life, but my family can here from München and surrounding cities. Ich spreche eine kleine Deutsch, aber es ist lange her, dass ich diese Sprache viel gesprochen habe.  I need to practice more.
Enjoy our forum.  It has many valuable resources.  And there are experts here who can help with a wide range of difficulties.  Have fun!

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, UhrTobi said:

Many thanks! 😀

Yes, your are right, my "Mühle" is a 29er, too . Because I'm not at home, I can only post the rendered views at this time. You can see the hand placer an some tiny tools such as the wheel centerer, the movement holder but also an oil bowl and - I don't know the correct name is - a barrel assebler. Some of them are made out of CFK-PLA such as the lower part of the barrel assebler, the movement holder and the hand placer. To get a fine surface I presst some hot ball-bearing balls in the pits of the oil bowl. All axes are made from 6mm-steel and the threaded rods are M6x1🙂

best regards

Tobi

hand placer.png

tiny tools.png

Very impressive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey UhrTobi!

Great to see your 3D printed stuff.  Certainly interested in your watch-related creations.  I am a big 3D guy myself.  I do my designs in FreeCAD (because it is free!!).

BTW...your English is better than my German!!!  I used to teach a short course in Berlin (twice a year) back in the '80s.  Learned enough to get around but have since lost it.

Nice work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

BTW...your English is better than my German!!!  I used to teach a short course in Berlin (twice a year) back in the '80s.  Learned enough to get around but have since lost it.

Thats nice - thank you, I give my verry best 😉.

Quote

Certainly interested in your watch-related creations.

Ok, here it is 🙂 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5196938 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/12/2022 at 4:41 AM, UhrTobi said:

Ok, here it is

Nice.  Intrigued by this comment: "All threads must be cut and all holes must be drilled using alcohol, otherwhise the PLA stick to the cutter tool!"  I know that drilling pla is tricky because the friction heats up the bit and melts the PLA.  Is alcohol (IPA) the solution?

Here is a thing I made to stabilize a balance cock while working on it.  I posted about it in the tools section. It is just a puck with a bunch of holes in it.

2022-01-28 10_25_53-20220128_090249-1.jpg ‎- Photos.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

in the link above, there ist a universal movement holder implemented. I used it since a view weeks and it works fine.

Quote

 I know that drilling pla is tricky because the friction heats up the bit and melts the PLA.  Is alcohol (IPA) the solution?

There must be any sort of cooling. I use ethanol (we call it in germany "Spiritus" - it is ethanol with a additive so it is not possible to drink and because of this, there is no alcohol-tax on it). But IPA woud work, too. Water would be a solution, too, but I do not use this because auf corrossion of the tools. Eaven oil would be possible, but I'm not sure, that there would be no interference with the PLA. 

Quote

Here is a thing I made to stabilize a balance cock while working on it.  I posted about it in the tools section. It is just a puck with a bunch of holes in it.

Looks like a practical solution 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...