Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I  removed the timer assembly and found that the trigger bar had been pushed back. I spun it back around so that it would make contact and in the process a wire let go  poor solder joint.     I have two ultrasonic base units I would like to send to someone and get them repaired.  Is there anyone around that  troubleshoots/ repairs them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
hi, I found a Old L&R master watch cleaning machine , marked L&R master
any idea on how old the machine is ?
will post a couple of pictures is asked ?
also is the electric cord have a two or three prong plug ?/
please post, many thanks, rocky
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello all , can someone please assist me I require a wiring diagram

for L&R watch master [ serial range 79,xxx ] someone replaced the

electric cord and wired it direct.

 I have read these a wiring diagram under the plate on the bottom

of the machine , mine is missing the plate,

can some please post a picture, many thanks, rocky

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can't get an exact size, just get something slightly larger and file/sandpaper it down to the correct dimensions. If the pigtail wire is too long or has a different terminal, cut off the old terminal and spot weld or solder it to the new brush.

I do that all the time for the motors I repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Old post new user.

Here is a 3d print of a "scaled" mason jar lid. Scaling doesn't always work for 3d print files unless they are parametric designs. It worked well  in this case.

374583869_download(3).png.0fc76e96ded43d1744ed14ce856b607a.png1924839864_download(2).png.7b9af44ceb174ac2fc93beaca13c0e0f.png366257157_download(1).png.e5b072b084ca63a6d2e3bfdf6bbe5e6b.png

The L&R cleaner and rinse I am using came in plastic jugs so I am expecting PLA printing material to holdup just fine. ABS could also be printed.

I started with the stl file below and expanded it so the absolute outside dimension was 4 inches between the tips of opposite points.

Enjoy, 

Matt

 

wide_mouth_jar_lid.stl

Edited by Nibbler
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've got a couple of machines, a Mastermatic and a vari-matic.  I have to restore both, but started with the Mastermatic.  Got it torn down, but the basket motor is beyond my capabilities to restore.  Does anyone know of a shop in the US (I'd be glad to ship) that could handle the motor repair/restoration?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 12/1/2020 at 4:34 PM, Nibbler said:

Old post new user.

Here is a 3d print of a "scaled" mason jar lid. Scaling doesn't always work for 3d print files unless they are parametric designs. It worked well  in this case.

374583869_download(3).png.0fc76e96ded43d1744ed14ce856b607a.png1924839864_download(2).png.7b9af44ceb174ac2fc93beaca13c0e0f.png366257157_download(1).png.e5b072b084ca63a6d2e3bfdf6bbe5e6b.png

The L&R cleaner and rinse I am using came in plastic jugs so I am expecting PLA printing material to holdup just fine. ABS could also be printed.

I started with the stl file below and expanded it so the absolute outside dimension was 4 inches between the tips of opposite points.

Enjoy, 

Matt

 

wide_mouth_jar_lid.stl 2.81 MB · 1 download

Thanks for sharing!

The OD of the threads on my L&R jars is about 3.75".  Yours is 4"? The Mason jar threads match the L&R threads once you scaled the model?

Thanks again!

Woody

Edited by B42Woody
More info added.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/24/2021 at 2:52 PM, Nibbler said:

So the 4 inches is an outside dimension between the points of the lid.

 

 

IMG_0948.jpg

Thanks.  I measured mine with a caliper.  They're 95mm or 3.74" OD (between the thread points of the jar).

When you scaled up the Mason jar model, do the threads (pitch, height, etc) match your jars?  In other words, do the lids you printed correctly thread/screw onto your jars?

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took Nibbler's lead and downloaded a Mason jar model from Thingiverse. If you have Solidworks, the Thingiverse download includes a Solidworks part file (and STEP, STL, OBJ). Having a native SW part, I scaled it to match my jars and added the lettering for a bit of pizzazz.  Finally, I generated a 4.5MB STL file and had it printed at my local makerspace.  The print cost was $10 (USD).

It threads on nicely and tightens up. I put some water in the jar to see if the lid would hold liquid.  It doesn't.  So, I'm going to modify the lid model to receive a silicone O-ring or (hopefully) a standard Mason jar gasket.

20210130_073922.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/9/2017 at 10:10 PM, measuretwice said:

thanks for the input.  The jars and lids are original,each with L&R molded in.  The jars are also molded with threads, however the lids are not threaded - they just sit there.  I've read L&R had thread-on lids but they seem somewhat rare.  It seems like it would have been a good thing the have, I mean who wouldn't want to seal it up when not in use?  (perhaps the L&R wash salesman?)  This model btw is the mastermatic.

I looked around the web for a screw on that might fit, no luck.  Cling wrap might work, but I know it would make me mental having t futz about with it.  I I'm going to try the heavy steel lid, and I have some neoprene rubber that would make a good gaskets.  If successful photo's to follow.

https://i.imgur.com/ISt2Uxq.jpg

 

https://i.imgur.com/XI0F07q.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I see this is an ancient thread...deleting my comment

Edited by LittleWatchShop
stale thread response
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/1/2020 at 3:34 PM, Nibbler said:

The L&R cleaner and rinse I am using came in plastic jugs so I am expecting PLA printing material to holdup just fine. ABS could also be printed.

TPU also might be a candidate.  I have printed some lids with it (not for this application).  You need a printhead that can handle the flexible filament.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/1/2020 at 3:34 PM, Nibbler said:

The L&R cleaner and rinse I am using came in plastic jugs so I am expecting PLA printing material to holdup just fine. ABS could also be printed.

TPU also might be a candidate.  I have printed some lids with it (not for this application).  You need a printhead that can handle the flexible filament.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...