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About B42Woody

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    Maryland, U.S.A.

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  1. I sent the STL file to my local makerplace for printing. So, I'll have to get back to you with an answer. FWIW, the print resolution seems to be very high (to me, anyway .... a complete noob to the 3D printing world). Regardless of the resolution, I guess there will be porosity of some non-zero magnitude, right? The lid top thickness is 2.22mm, BTW.
  2. A little update on the lids I had printed in PLA: Ammonia vapors from L&R #111 pass through the printed lids with very little resistance. The vapors don't seem to affect the print's structural properties, fortunately. I reduced the vapors to nearly zero with 2 payers of clear plastic circles cut from a heavy plastic bag. I sandwiched the plastic circles between the lid and the silicone Mason jar gaskets. Doing it this way, the plastic circles stay in place when I remove the lids to run my machine. If you're unfamiliar with L&R #111, it contains ammonia with very stron
  3. Thanks again, Chris!! I'm glad you only use the small baskets - the large one is almost impossible to remove! I don't have the ultrasonic base, unfortunately. But, I'm on the lookout for one. Hopefully I'll find one! Thanks for the concern and warning regarding my use of alcohol for testing. I put it only in jar #1. Jars #2 and #3 are completely empty so the basket is nearly dry by the time it gets to the heater. I would have used water but I was concerned something might rust - I guess everything that gets wet is made of stainless steel. The manual states, "The machine is
  4. Thanks again, Chris!! I read through the manual as you suggested and learned quite a bit (go figure!!). To answer your questions: 1) Yes, my dryer fan runs perfectly. 2) I don't have a way to measure the basket rotational speed, but the spin-off speed seems to be faster than the drying speed .... or about the same. The manual specifically lists L&R Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and L&R #3 Watch Rinsing Solution as the recommended solutions. I'll have to research the difference between the Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and #111 but since you use #111,
  5. Thanks, Chris, for the quick reply! I sincerely appreciate your help!! At 6 times/day for 15 years, you really know this machine . Yes, I have the original manual. I'll review it and the information you provided and take your advice. I might have a followup question or 2 ... One more question now: Do you use L&R #3 for your rinses? My big concern is fire. My heating element gets very hot (but NOT red hot). I'm worried the #3 rinse might ignite if droplets land on the hot heating element. That's why I'm so concerned about spin-off before moving over to the heater. Tha
  6. Folks, I just purchased a Vari-Matic in perfect operating condition. The numbers 12 29 67 are stamped into the hydraulic reservoir/aluminum base so I suppose it was made on 29 Dec 1967. Does anybody know how to increase the spin-off time between stations? I've found a couple YouTube videos from 2016 and 2011 but I can't reach those folks. Can you please offer any advice or point me in the right direction? I'd really like to make this modification but my electronics knowledge and skills are near zero. Thanks!! Woody.
  7. Are your armrests straight hinged off the sides? Does that position work well? Thanks!
  8. I ordered these silicone gaskets from Amazon. After cutting off the side tabs, they fit perfectly in my printed lids. I put water in a jar and the lid/gasket combination is watertight! Success!!
  9. I took Nibbler's lead and downloaded a Mason jar model from Thingiverse. If you have Solidworks, the Thingiverse download includes a Solidworks part file (and STEP, STL, OBJ). Having a native SW part, I scaled it to match my jars and added the lettering for a bit of pizzazz. Finally, I generated a 4.5MB STL file and had it printed at my local makerspace. The print cost was $10 (USD). It threads on nicely and tightens up. I put some water in the jar to see if the lid would hold liquid. It doesn't. So, I'm going to modify the lid model to receive a silicone O-ring or (hopefully) a stand
  10. Thanks. I measured mine with a caliper. They're 95mm or 3.74" OD (between the thread points of the jar). When you scaled up the Mason jar model, do the threads (pitch, height, etc) match your jars? In other words, do the lids you printed correctly thread/screw onto your jars? Thanks again!
  11. Thanks for sharing! The OD of the threads on my L&R jars is about 3.75". Yours is 4"? The Mason jar threads match the L&R threads once you scaled the model? Thanks again! Woody
  12. Thanks, John. That makes a lot more sense .... Woody
  13. Thanks for the reply, jdm. I'm not asking about "connecting" one of these devices to a PC - I see the manufacturers don't offer that option. Rather, I'm asking if anybody has opened the enclosure and interfaced with the electronics to grab data signals. My colleague is a wiz with electronics but if somebody has already done it and is willing to share the details, that would be great. Woody
  14. Has anybody tried to interface one of these Chinese timegraphers with a PC? I can see value in the ability to record data. I don't think there's need to control the machine from a PC, though. Thoughts and opinions? Links? Woody
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