Main Spring Winder

[RogerH]

Hi Folks, it's the same old topic that keeps coming up but as it's one of the most potentially dangerous part of clock repair I always think it's worth a visit just to get peoples opinion on what is best.

I've just seen this on Ebay....thoughts please - 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303954191633?hash=item46c514e511:g:940AAOSwLG9gjRC2 

[RogerH]

I've just seen a post from Watchweasle on this too so may be I'm just late to the party  

[oldhippy]

This is the sort I had and it will remove the biggest fusse springs and put them back in. Just make sure you have a good bench vice. 

 https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mainspring-winder-bergeon

[RogerH]

Thanks OH, that does look a bit more like it. does it come with the barrels? or do you buy them separately.

[Bod]

5 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Folks, it's the same old topic that keeps coming up but as it's one of the most potentially dangerous part of clock repair I always think it's worth a visit just to get peoples opinion on what is best.

I've just seen this on Ebay....thoughts please - 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303954191633?hash=item46c514e511:g:940AAOSwLG9gjRC2 

I have one exactly the same, it's the Ollie Baker style.

Mine has been used on Westminster chime clocks and 400 day clocks, not tried it with fusee springs, because I haven't worked on one yet.

The winder MUST be clamped very securely to the bench before use, mine is held in a large woodwork vice.

Bod

[nickelsilver]

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

This is the sort I had and it will remove the biggest fusse springs and put them back in. Just make sure you have a good bench vice. 

 https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mainspring-winder-bergeon

On this style without the retaining barrels, how do you hold the end of the spring when transferring into the barrel?

[oldhippy]

51 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Thanks OH, that does look a bit more like it. does it come with the barrels? or do you buy them separately.

You don't need barrels with this type. You wind the spring up inside the barrel and unhook it with a pair of pliers, I used long nosed ones. Putting it back, you wind the spring up enough so the barrel goes over the spring, making sure it hooks on the inside, you switch the click over so it unwinds and you are finished. 

[nickelsilver]

1 minute ago, oldhippy said:

You don't need barrels with this type. You wind the spring up inside the barrel and unhook it with a pair of pliers, I used long nosed ones. Putting it back, you wind the spring up enough so the barrel goes over the spring, making sure it hooks on the inside, you switch the click over so it unwinds and you are finished. 

Ha,ok, that's what I thought. Ever have one slip out of the pliers?

[oldhippy]

The end of the spring hooks on here red arrow 

[nickelsilver]

Yes, but let's say going out of the barrel you grab with pliers to unhook, or going in you wind up then grab with pliers to hook in the barrel, yes? I would be terrified with a really powerful spring.

[oldhippy]

I forgot to mention a good pair of thick gloves is recommended. Never had one slip or where I haven't been able to control it, I 'm not that strong in the my wrists.  

[RogerH]

Many thanks, good advice as always!

[RogerH]

Not wishing to start a new topic but on a similar vein regarding Main Springs I recently had an Ansonia mech in with two broken main springs - not too sure of the story behind it but they were both split in various places. I replaced them both with new springs of matching width and depth - a bit hairy hence my first question about winders! but it all ran and chimes very well, however, the chime train runs down very quickly - about 3 or 4 days where as the time train appears to be a standard 8 day.

Is there a difference between the springs? They both looked to be the same. is there something else which might cause this? or do they often wind at different rates. I've attached some before pictures. stupidly I didn't get any after ones but it cleaned up really well.

[oldhippy]

The springs should run down at the same amount if the clock is 8 days the time should last for at least 8 days and so should the strike. Both springs should be the same size and strength. Are you sure the strike side isn’t acting up such as striking when it shouldn’t, striking more then the designated amount. 

[watchweasol]

There is information on the site regarding building your own  Both my self and member Moose have done so and they work very well without danger to fingers etc. have a search.   cheers.

[RogerH]

13 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The springs should run down at the same amount if the clock is 8 days the time should last for at least 8 days and so should the strike. Both springs should be the same size and strength. Are you sure the strike side isn’t acting up such as striking when it shouldn’t, striking more then the designated amount. 

Hi OH, no, it chimes perfectly. I completely stripped and cleaned the mech and manually wound through the hours with the strike hitting the hour and half hour perfectly. When it's running it's running fine but after three days you need to give the chime side an extra wind up. as the time train runs ok I can only assume the size and strength of the spring is correct. I wonder if there could be some drag causing the chime spring to have to work harder? I didn't see anything originally but I'll strip it again and have a look.

[oldhippy]

Are you saying the strike side spring doesn't run right down, that you have to give it a wind for it to carry on running down?

[RogerH]

No, it seems to run down quicker. So it's unwinding correctly but at a faster rate than the time side. Thinking about it, I wonder if it's not unwind completely. May be it's sticking so it's not the strength of the spring but something that's causing it to snag and not unwind fully......I'll know more when I get it on the bench.

[RogerH]

I think I can now close this topic - unless anyone has any other advice on winders - but I got the Ansonia mech on the bench and looking at both springs, when I fitted them I didn't have the ends fully down against the plate so as the spring unwound it was rubbing against the wheel. I've attached a pic to show the mech with the springs now in place and an arrow pointing to where they were. I'll keep it running but I'm fairly confident that was the issue.

[oldhippy]

Well spotted, that would cause the problem. Looks like someone has been chewing the winding arbor on the going side.  

[RogerH]

I suspect they used an incorrect key at some point (Or pliers!). The key with it now is worn but it works well enough. The fact both main springs were snapped suggests there's an interesting story to tell but I guess I'll never know!

[oldhippy]

Always have a good fitting key, otherwise it can round the corners on the arbors. 

[RogerH]

Another question on this topic. I'm working on a clock with two barrels both appear to have thr spring soldered in place! See pics. The whole clock was very gunged up so I would like to clean the springs but not too sure how to if I can't get the things out of the barrel.  Any thoughts?

[oldhippy]

That isn't solder. That marked red is the part inside the barrel that the end of the mainspring hooks on. A good clock mainspring winder is what's needed to remove the spring.

[RogerH]

Haha, so that will push in? It does make sense. I have the Bergon type which should do it....hopefully!