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Bod

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  1. Bod

    Can somebody pls tell me...

    Interesting, I have a clock with the same case. Mine is an Anvil brand, made by the Perivale Clock company of London. Going by your inscription about the same age, early/mid 1930's. Bod
  2. The watch was found whilst clearing my late fathers house, I'd never seen it before, and have no idea how he got it, or when. The 1890 date doesn't tie in with any family history, a mystery. I have now had the works out of the case, absolutely clean inside, no dust or fluff, the winding mechanism appears to be between the dial and main frame, way beyond my skill at present. Are there any good books for the repair of this type of watch? Bod
  3. Front bezel popped off, using a little pressure on the movement from the back. Movement came out freely, all very clean, no dust or fluff. Could not see anything that looked wrong, the winding mechanism appears to be mainly between the main frame and dial. Way beyond my skill set/pay scale! Is this watch worth being set away? Or is it only worth the scrap value of the silver case? Bod
  4. Bod

    Ebay again

    The E-bay one has quite a useless bevel gear, for some reason, the rest looks solidly made, wonder what it came from? Bod
  5. I have a Benson Ludgate key set pocket watch, the silver case is hallmarked for London 1890, serial No. 70937. I understand that Benson at the time had 3 main watches, The Field. The Ludgate, and The Bank. Some say the Bank was the best, other say the Field, any ideas which was considered to be the top line? About this time(1890) the Ludgate went keyless. My watch has two known problems, the balance jewel is missing,( the bit that operates the "English lever" under the balance wheel) and the main spring winder is solid, not just fully wound with a little give, but rock solid! The watch does not tick when shaken. How do I remove this mechanism from the case? There appears to be two releasing screws, but turning them has no effect. If it's a simple job to remove the jewel from the cogs, and refit in the right place, I might have a go, other than that it will have to be looked at by a more knowledgable person than I. Bod
  6. Bod

    Am I MAD to buy this?

    Good luck! I shall follow this with interest. Bod
  7. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    I tried lifting the pendulum by 1/2 an inch, made very little if any difference, but did look odd. Any effect to be gained by shortening the spring, would be at the cost of appearance. As a proving exercise for the rest of the clock, a useful tool. Bod
  8. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    That's why I didn't want to shorten the suspension to much. They also look strange if the pillars are too short, or the suspension is too long. Less of a problem with newer clocks that have the centring cup to guide the pendulum. I did cheat and look at the E-bay advert. I've now fitted a 0.004 spring, so will see in a couple of hours if there's any improvement. Bod
  9. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    Suspension spring is a bit short. Minute hand a bit long. Very unusual top suspension mounting system. The lower pendulum locking bracket looks just low enough to interfere with the lower block. What have I missed? Bod
  10. Bod

    Metamec, the cheap throw away.

    Tooooo much information.... Bod
  11. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    I did try shortening this one, it looked odd! Didn't alter the speed much, I could have gone shorter, but new is now on order, should arrive over the weekend. Bod
  12. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    Even with the pendulum fully wound in, the clock is still slow. Setting it midway gives 3 minutes per hour slow, which is as I understand it indicative that a different suspension spring would help. According to Horolovar an increase/decrease of 0.0001 in thickness will alter the time keeping by 4 minutes an hour. At present I have fitted a 0.0038 spring as per the "book" but with the bent anchor arm there may be a different requirement, and with the age of this clock, it's not an exact science! I've put a lot of time into researching this type of clock, but am very pleased at all your comments, shows that I've not wasted the effort. I've got 2 other torsion clocks, both younger, both running ok-ish. This Hauck is teaching me a lot! Thanks Bod
  13. Bod

    Metamec, the cheap throw away.

    ISS. That's got me thinking....knitted cuffs, not gloves..... Bod
  14. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    A little more on this clock. As the paper pointer passes block 1 there is the "tick" Block 2 is the over swing counter-clockwise distance from 1 Block 3 is the clockwise rotation "tock" point. Block 4 is the clockwise over swing limit. As there is plenty of power, I'm tempted not to touch the anchor arm, all this would do, I feel is to put the mid swing point back to the middle, at present there is not much room to lower the fork to reduce the over swing, the clock has now run for 3 months in it's present condition. I'm going to order a 0.004 spring to replace the 0.0038 in place at present, to see if the 1 in 24 hour loss can be gained. This is the state of the main spring lubrication, found on initial inspection, using a main spring winder the coils are all perfectly free and moving nicely. All the main parts have "91" stamped on them from the main serial number, the pendulum only has the full number in ink rather than stamped. Apart from the missing suspension gimbal, I have a complete factory clock, that appears to want to work, despite some previous "workmanship". Once I have it running on time(!) then the project will be to polish it up. Is there likely to be any factory applied lacquer on a clock of this age? (110 years) The dome that cam with it is acrylic, so might be replaced. Bod
  15. Bod

    P Hauck Torsion clock.

    This is my clock, I would like advice on it's problem please. Front view. Back plate. Plate 1607 in 400 day Repair Guide (10th ed.) Advice on general cleaning methods appreciated. I think this clock has been in storage for a long time, wrapped in damp white paper, which has marked the brass, and rusted the steel, some of which I have removed with a fibre glass brush. Can you spot the problem? The Anchor arm is bent, in two directions, and is plenty short enough. How is the arm attached, do I straighten, or replace? The clock runs reliably all be it loosing 1 hour a day. My thoughts are to replace the 0.0038" spring with a 0.0040", then if reasonable time keeping can be got, then leave the anchor well alone. Your comments please. Bod
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