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About Bod

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    Watch Enthusiast

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  1. Hi Do I understand you correctly, you are making up the suspension spring for this clock, using the information in the 400 day repair guide book by Twilnger(spelt wrong I suspect). For this book to be correct, you must use Horolovar springs, no other make will work correctly. This is to do with the way Horolovar springs are made, other makes are made differently. Horolovar springs come in only 2 lengths, the lengths given assume the support columns are correctly assembled, the spring will almost certainly need cutting down. Once the clock is running, set the pendulum to mi
  2. Certainly seeing the pair together, does highlight the quality differences. Bod
  3. Be aware that the suspension spring thicknesses refered to in the Twilliger's book, are Horolovar suspension springs only. There are other makes, but these do not have the same size rating. Bod.
  4. "Hi, sorry I don’t have an exact age however I don’t believe it is antique. I had it from a clock shop where apparently the owner had it cleaned. The cleanliness could be deceiving me though." This is the answer I received. Possibly accurate, it's less than 100 years old. Bod.
  5. I've had similar, the clock worked perfectly out of the case, but in the case no hope. Turned out to be the strike/silent lever, rubbing against the case, adjust the lever away from the case, all was well. I had been wondering why this clock appeared to have had no use, it hadn't, been faulty from new! Bod.
  6. Dial doesn't fit the hood. Bod.
  7. I've been adjusting the regulator arm, this has now got the watch running less than 4 minutes slow over 24 hours, and is as good as it's going to get, with out a full clean and service. (which is way beyond my eyesight!) I do fear despite it being "shock proof" a knock will upset the time keeping. But at least we know what to do. Many thanks to all who have replied, you have been a great help. Bod.
  8. Still gaining. I've removed the back. To my eye, there is nothing special to see. No serial numbers, only "Swiss 23 jewels" There is a +/- for the hair spring, which I have moved slightly to the -, but too far and the lever interferes with a wheel. The inside is clean, no rust or dust. I've retried the demagnetiser, now I just wait to see if any thing changes. Value wise, I don't think this should be put on the house insurance as a valuable item. Unless you know different... Thanks Bod.
  9. Done as Len suggests, now just waiting 12 hours, to see if I've gained or lost.. Bod.
  10. How would I go about doing this? I have an Eclipse 955 demagnetiser, just a case of passing the watch over it a couple of times, or will it need dismantling? Thanks Bod.
  11. My step grandson has just inherited this Emro 23 jewel, shockproof, waterproof, antimagnetic, swiss made watch. It has a gain in time of 9 minutes in every 26 hours. Being a clock person rather than a watch person, can you help, is there a "slow-Fast" adjustment inside the case? An idea of the age of the watch, as I can find very little via Google, except that it may be 60's-70's. The markings on the back are the same as the dial, plus it's been "Diamond tooled, electronically tested, and Tropicalized" Now what is "Tropicalized"? Disregard the strap,
  12. The rachet spanner, how is that fixed to the threaded rod? Going by what I can see in the photos, it's just friction between two nuts, neither of which are "locking" type. Remember, you will have powerfull springs held only by friction, should just one of those nuts move fractionally..... Bod
  13. This is an Erhard Franke copy of a Joe Collins design. The rachet mechanism is a Racheting Ring spanner, and various sized 1/4 inch sockets are supplied for different arbours. The last picture shows, a spring loaded flap behind the Barrel clamp, and a knob to adjust the flap angle, I have yet to discover it's use. This is the clock I intend to work on, the coin for scale is a GB pound coin. At present the clock has not worked for 20 years, and is fully wound, it only runs for a few seconds unless pressure is put on the upper wheels to add power. The "oil" remains are
  14. How much more powerful are fusee main springs, compared to normal mainsprings? I have a fusee movement to attend to, needs stripping to remove dried oil, etc. Bod
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