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About Bod

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    Watch Enthusiast

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  1. I've been adjusting the regulator arm, this has now got the watch running less than 4 minutes slow over 24 hours, and is as good as it's going to get, with out a full clean and service. (which is way beyond my eyesight!) I do fear despite it being "shock proof" a knock will upset the time keeping. But at least we know what to do. Many thanks to all who have replied, you have been a great help. Bod.
  2. Still gaining. I've removed the back. To my eye, there is nothing special to see. No serial numbers, only "Swiss 23 jewels" There is a +/- for the hair spring, which I have moved slightly to the -, but too far and the lever interferes with a wheel. The inside is clean, no rust or dust. I've retried the demagnetiser, now I just wait to see if any thing changes. Value wise, I don't think this should be put on the house insurance as a valuable item. Unless you know different... Thanks Bod.
  3. Done as Len suggests, now just waiting 12 hours, to see if I've gained or lost.. Bod.
  4. How would I go about doing this? I have an Eclipse 955 demagnetiser, just a case of passing the watch over it a couple of times, or will it need dismantling? Thanks Bod.
  5. My step grandson has just inherited this Emro 23 jewel, shockproof, waterproof, antimagnetic, swiss made watch. It has a gain in time of 9 minutes in every 26 hours. Being a clock person rather than a watch person, can you help, is there a "slow-Fast" adjustment inside the case? An idea of the age of the watch, as I can find very little via Google, except that it may be 60's-70's. The markings on the back are the same as the dial, plus it's been "Diamond tooled, electronically tested, and Tropicalized" Now what is "Tropicalized"? Disregard the strap, that has been only recently fitted, I don't know what it had before. Any information will be gratefully received by the grandson. Thanks Bod.
  6. The rachet spanner, how is that fixed to the threaded rod? Going by what I can see in the photos, it's just friction between two nuts, neither of which are "locking" type. Remember, you will have powerfull springs held only by friction, should just one of those nuts move fractionally..... Bod
  7. This is an Erhard Franke copy of a Joe Collins design. The rachet mechanism is a Racheting Ring spanner, and various sized 1/4 inch sockets are supplied for different arbours. The last picture shows, a spring loaded flap behind the Barrel clamp, and a knob to adjust the flap angle, I have yet to discover it's use. This is the clock I intend to work on, the coin for scale is a GB pound coin. At present the clock has not worked for 20 years, and is fully wound, it only runs for a few seconds unless pressure is put on the upper wheels to add power. The "oil" remains are closer to chewing gum than lubricant. Bod
  8. How much more powerful are fusee main springs, compared to normal mainsprings? I have a fusee movement to attend to, needs stripping to remove dried oil, etc. Bod
  9. Joe Collins Winder in action. Bod
  10. Thanks, that one is in slightly poorer condition than mine, which has no rust, and gold coloured hands. I shall watch it. Bod
  11. Thank you, it's the Impulse jewel thats missing. I know I won't find a spare part, for this watch, but can they be replaced, with an alternative? Bod
  12. Well to resurrect an old topic, due to being unable to go out, I've had another look at this watch, discovering a few things. 1. My eyesight is not up to working on anything smaller! 2. The seized winding mechanism, was a small piece of straw under the intermediate gear. How it got there goodness knows, the only holes big enough are on the other side of the watch. No other debris or dust present. 3. The balance staff is missing. The peg below the balance wheel, that moves the escape pallet arm. Would the staff just be a short lenght of wire, or a shaped "jewel"? The hole for this is round, no shaping. Bod
  13. Thanks for the replies, I've resisted the temptation called WD40! Bod
  14. Owing to a life-style change, Iam going to put several clocks into storage. (with a Professional storage company) The storage time is likely to be 2-5 years. My current ideas, are to wrap each clock, after removing pendulums, and stuffing cloth around gongs, chimes, and pendulum hangers to prevent movement. The wrapping will be VOC paper (rust preventing paper) then into cardboard divided plastic storage crates, the type with interlocking lids, which can be stacked, without fear of collapse. Industrial grade, rather than DIY shed grade. Some clocks are mantle, others are torsion, all are mechanical rather than battery, those few will just have batteries removed. The spring driven ones, should they be let stop naturally, or be fully let down? the torsion ones will have to be let down manually. Or should I be doing differently? Bod
  15. Bod

    How to clean dial

    Got me thinking.... I have a scruffy dial, that doesn't warrant much money spending.... Bod
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