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Bod

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About Bod

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  1. Get the 10th edition of the Horolovar book, it's the most up to date version. The book will tell which suspension spring to get. ONLY use Horolovar springs, as they are matched to the book recommendations. Other makes of spring are available, but there is no reliable way of knowing which spring is needed, due to manufacturing differences. Likewise measuring the old spring for thickness, unless it is known for certain to be Horolovar, is not reliable. Bod
  2. I have an old arbour that has been reversed, by fitting a peg, in place of the normal hook, so will work both ways. Bod
  3. I have one of these, well made, works well. Haven't quite worked out what the knob on the rear is for. Bod
  4. When setting the beat, watch the Escape wheel, and the pendulum, at the same time! What you are looking for is an equal amount of over swing, as the anchor releases the escape wheel. Having a marker on one of the balls will be helpful. As will having movable markers on the base, two for the full extent of the swing, two for when the escape wheel is released. When the escape markers are equal distance from the full extent markers, the clock should be in beat. Beat is adjusted by the screw head shown in the red ring above. A very small movement of this screw will have a great
  5. Hi Do I understand you correctly, you are making up the suspension spring for this clock, using the information in the 400 day repair guide book by Twilnger(spelt wrong I suspect). For this book to be correct, you must use Horolovar springs, no other make will work correctly. This is to do with the way Horolovar springs are made, other makes are made differently. Horolovar springs come in only 2 lengths, the lengths given assume the support columns are correctly assembled, the spring will almost certainly need cutting down. Once the clock is running, set the pendulum to mi
  6. Certainly seeing the pair together, does highlight the quality differences. Bod
  7. Be aware that the suspension spring thicknesses refered to in the Twilliger's book, are Horolovar suspension springs only. There are other makes, but these do not have the same size rating. Bod.
  8. "Hi, sorry I don’t have an exact age however I don’t believe it is antique. I had it from a clock shop where apparently the owner had it cleaned. The cleanliness could be deceiving me though." This is the answer I received. Possibly accurate, it's less than 100 years old. Bod.
  9. I've had similar, the clock worked perfectly out of the case, but in the case no hope. Turned out to be the strike/silent lever, rubbing against the case, adjust the lever away from the case, all was well. I had been wondering why this clock appeared to have had no use, it hadn't, been faulty from new! Bod.
  10. Dial doesn't fit the hood. Bod.
  11. I've been adjusting the regulator arm, this has now got the watch running less than 4 minutes slow over 24 hours, and is as good as it's going to get, with out a full clean and service. (which is way beyond my eyesight!) I do fear despite it being "shock proof" a knock will upset the time keeping. But at least we know what to do. Many thanks to all who have replied, you have been a great help. Bod.
  12. Still gaining. I've removed the back. To my eye, there is nothing special to see. No serial numbers, only "Swiss 23 jewels" There is a +/- for the hair spring, which I have moved slightly to the -, but too far and the lever interferes with a wheel. The inside is clean, no rust or dust. I've retried the demagnetiser, now I just wait to see if any thing changes. Value wise, I don't think this should be put on the house insurance as a valuable item. Unless you know different... Thanks Bod.
  13. Done as Len suggests, now just waiting 12 hours, to see if I've gained or lost.. Bod.
  14. How would I go about doing this? I have an Eclipse 955 demagnetiser, just a case of passing the watch over it a couple of times, or will it need dismantling? Thanks Bod.
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