Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys back again.

Thanks for all the help you all provided when I was troubleshooting the bulova, it is running amazing now.

I have a 6139 Chrono that looks great on the timegrapher.  It is running at +8 s/d and 0.1ms beat error, it keeps awesome time when I am wearing it, but for some reason when I leave it in my watch box overnight it seems to lose a couple of minutes.  The hands dont seem super loose or anything so the only thing I can think is the calendar works slows it down when its switch day/date?

Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

Advance the hands by 12hrs, compare time on the watch with time on your smart phone or a reliable time piece, between 10am to 2pm, you should notice if it slows down in this 4hrs time period. 

How long is it actual power reserve?

Posted

I would guess around 30ish hours.  I haven't actually checked it, but it seems to run 24ish hours after I am done wearing it before it stops completely.

Also did you mean 10pm to 2am when it starts to change the date/day?

Posted
2 hours ago, Wdschell said:

for some reason when I leave it in my watch box overnight it seems to lose a couple of minutes. 

Try different resting positions, finding them either with the help of a timegrapher, or just with patience over days. 

This ancient method of averaging errors is nowadays almost forgotten by many watch owners expecting quartz like accuracy from their mechanical pieces, no matter their make, vintage or conditions. 

Posted
39 minutes ago, Wdschell said:

I would guess around 30ish hours.  I haven't actually checked it, but it seems to run 24ish hours after I am done wearing it before it stops completely.

Also did you mean 10pm to 2am when it starts to change the date/day?

The power reserve is acceptable.

I meant advancing hands by 12 hrs , then it changes date at noon ,so you have a chance to observe time on it and compare with a reliabke time keeper.   Otherwise as jgm says , its likely to depend on its resting position. Face up or down etc.

Regs 

joe

Posted

I figured it was probably ok.  Just wanted some more opinions.  It doesn't bother me at all I just wanted to make sure something wasn't wrong with it.

Posted
10 hours ago, Wdschell said:

I'll run that test tomorrow.  If it is running slow during that time period would that indicate a problem of some sort?

It would show the jumper mech is heavy footed, .if it slows down only when trying to jump the day/ date, we can conclude jumping is what slows the rate.

When servicing the movement, one would have a chance to make such observation without and with the date mech engaged.

A clean and new lube on date complication might improve things.

Regs 

Joe

Posted
3 hours ago, Melt said:

I would check the plastic day date wheel for bent teeth or a bent finger.

 

Ya, plastic jumpers, actually any faulty parts in day/ date complication, bent day disk for instance or simply dried out grease in disk groove. Spotting the fault now can get to be a pain.

Posted
8 hours ago, Wdschell said:

Probably just better off doing a full service huh?

You now have a chance to practice fault finding. Full service does in a way rob you of this chance.

 

Posted

When I serviced my 6139B the date finger (868611) and Intermediate date wheel (81760) were both made of plastic and had some damage.  I replaced both of them with new (from schillachi61 on ebay, a great source for seiko parts).  The new intermediate date wheel was now metal.

Posted

Ok, I will take this chance to practice my fault finding.

Thanks canthus I will check those pieces out when I have it apart.  Thanks for the seller to I wasn't sure whether to order parts or to order a whole parts movement if some sort

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...