Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi 

I'm a beginner.  I've been using 8200 for all but the keyless where I use grease.  I've bought 9010 and 9104 which, I believe, is synthetic D5.  It's also listed as HP1300.  My question is whether this is used on any of the wheel train?

Posted

This is how I use it (maybe others have different opinions):

HP1300: hole for the barrel arbour on the barrel bridge and on the 2nd wheel jewels.

9010: 3rd, 4th and escape wheels, balance cap jewels, pallet jewels.

On the dial side I mostly use HP1300, and Molykote on some keyless works parts.

Posted

D5 for slow stuff; 9010 for fast stuff (NEVER pallet fork); grease for sliding stuff.

Unless you have an oil chart for the specific movement.

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, Tudor said:

(NEVER pallet fork)

Never pallet fork pivots, but for pallet fork jewels is ok, I mean the stones or however you call them ?

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...