Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

During a wet test of a homage submariner the glass blew out as I released the pressure (3atm using a Bergeon lever style tester). Not seen this before, can someone explain why it happened?

Posted

Your case is leaky. When you pressurised the tester with the watch inside, air was forced into the case, euqualising the pressure inside and outside the case. When you released the pressure in the tester the higer pressure in the case popped the crystal off.

If you had released the air slowly with the watch submerged you would have seen a stream of bubbles which would have shown you where the leak was.

  • Like 2
Posted

To fit the glass back in, do I need to remove the rotating bezel, put the plastic ring on the glass and then push the bezel on top of the glass?

Some videos of watches with rotating bezels have the bezel installed and then the glass is pressed in after.

I'm not sure which method applies?

Posted
18 minutes ago, AP1875 said:

To fit the glass back in, do I need to remove the rotating bezel, put the plastic ring on the glass and then push the bezel on top of the glass?

It depends on the particular watch. If the bezel does not get in the way of working on the crystal there is no reason to remove it.

Posted

Also bear in mind that this watch being a "Homage" watch may have never been pressure tested before as they are what they are. When the glass is re fitted treat the watch for what it is NOT the genuine thing and therefore water resistant not waterproof.

Posted

Re refitting:

It depends on the design of the rehaut and the crystal. Some rehauts have an undercut on the OD and the crystal (should) have a corresponding protrusion that "locks" into that undercut.

But, since it blew off, it is quite possible the "lock" is not there.

All that said, I personally would disassemble the crystal retainer and bezel from the crystal, install the crystal with a schmear of G-S, and then press the retainer on (then the rest of the bezel assembly).

If this is a "click" type bezel, it needs to be completely disassembled before being put back on. If it's a bi-directional one, you can "get away" with not taking it apart, but it is best to do it in pieces to be sure each piece seats correctly.

Some crystal retainers have an o-ring groove on their underside too. Make sure the o-ring is there, and that it is lubed with Molykote 111 prior to assembly. This does not stop leaks, but reduces case corrosion.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...